Nickfromwales

They do pierce it but tend to fill the hole they create as the membrane stretches to allow it to pass through. Not a problem. With liquid screeds it would be frowned upon.

Yup. Prob best to drop it to 2bar before the pour .

Cold water has acclimatised to the ambient temperature and expanded a bit that's all. .

Tres bien ?

No dust ! Ordinary dash should be available in small bags, but if filling 15mm then 10mm chippings should be fine.

Never heard of it or promoted its use. Get your boiler checked for clean combustion so you know it's mixtures etc are set up right and carry on without it afaic.

10mm is a bit big if he's filling 12mm. Depends on how much tile adhesive is going over it afterwards.

Or a bag of dash if there's one handy. Adding sand dries it out.

I'd just chuck in clean 6mm chippings.

I prefer to pour something 'pissy' when patching in. A patching screed doesn't creep and key in anywhere near as good without a load of prep and priming etc. £20. Mix - pour - forget. .

Any 2-part TBH, Ultra or Ardex. Ardex is expensive so try and find a BM that stocks the Ultra if you can as it's prob half the price and I can't tell them apart once laid. Ultra 2-part.

2-part self leveller for the deficit. If the old tiles are sound then crack on. If there's any hint of movement then chuck a Ditra mat over it or it's a suicide mission.

I was joking

Ah, the good old days lol.

I'm a big fan of that. Makes life sooo much easier when plasterboarding, especially if the posi's are at 600mm centres and not perfectly square. Counter batten at 400mm centres and jobs a good-un.....if you've got enough head height.

PS, thanks for the £25 commission I get every time my names mentioned You'll see it next to the VAT.

@epsilonGreedy I take it you know a combi cannot provide heating and hot water at the same time? Eg they divert between either but never do both.

I don't know how many pages that lot went on for but could just about bring myself to complete page one. What a bunch of nuggets. One guy talking a 'bit' of sense and another dismissing an UVC because they explode and will blow up a car garage. WTF. If you do as those geniuses suggest then you'll probably half the life of the combi. Your warranty would instantly be voided, unless your happy to de-plumb everything every time you need to have it fixed again, and your legionaries risk would be off the chart. The pump speed ( litres per minute circulation rate ) would have to be perfect in order to get very hot water circulating. If the speed was too high then the water would never get hot, instead it would be warm, unless it's a beast of a combi. Every time the pipework cooled down you'd get another DHW 'pulse' which would shut down the general heating, activate the diverter switch, reignite the flame and run flat out until the pipe stat was satisfied, probably 10mins cooling and a 2 minute burn ( pulse ) for every cycle. The extra boiler labouring and subsequent fatigue would be ridiculous. Not even a starter afaic. IF you could access all of the hot and hot return pipework and lag the ? out of it you may halve the pulse rate and then you'll only take around 25% of the boiler life away. Large property with long runs to multiple locations = UVC ( the non exploding ones, don't forget that important detail ) plus a hot return circuit and dedicated pump with a system boiler. Not one of them mentioned the 22mm hot water pipework that would be in place with a copper cylinder install, which they would connect the combi too, so no difference in time of hot water to outlet other than the initial fire and warm up. I think 'that' screwfix community should be in padded cells . Combi boiler for hot return? NO.

Happy days. Did you mention the forum ?

Two showers at max wallop in a regular dwelling would prob use 9-10Lpm max, so forget anything that needs to generate 48Lpm as that's a fire hydrant. You will get two ADEQUATE simultaneous showers at around 8Lpm from the 938, and one I fitted with my mate a while back did so, 8 & 8 respectively from a max 16Lpm cold supply ( which is good btw ). Don't expect to be in there for 20 mins each though. You have to be realistic. If you have 10bar available and you really want high flow showers to run together then it would have to be a 250-300L TS with a 28mm 46kw DHW instant coil inside it. You will need a pressure reducing valve to bring the supply under control, say set to 4 bar, but that should still give sufficient cold water volume to run two 10Lpm showers if, as I expect with such high pressure, you'll also have in excess of 20Lpm coming into the TS. Gas system boiler & TS may be best, and the TS is your buffer AND hot water tank so a '2 box' solution. Any pv you generate would go into it via 2 immersions ( which you could / would use if the boiler ever failed too ). Time to decide if one blasting shower is good enough, as the 938 ( or even the 838 regular combi / other large regular combi ) will do that, or if you definitely need to be able to run two hot bathing outlets at the same time. That's the decider.

Your not pulling plastic for the majority ?

Make the exhaust the shortest as it'll have the most moisture / humidity.

Prob screwys. You don't need much do you ?

Sorry. Thought most bath flexis would be to 3/4". So same fitting but 1/2 x 15mn. Can't get the staff.