Nickfromwales

just cut it after it dries?

Yes, he gave an interesting stab at us over that foolish assumption. Who’s have known the cooker and cooking utensils lived outside. I was going to post this, but I fear someone may like it and then I’ll get bullied for that. He has a heating system, it works, it won’t get used. At least the house will dry out in the summer. 🤐

Can be cleaned as you go if just using PVA?

You won’t see the ply as the rest of the floor covering comes up way higher than that. You’re very brave putting SLC straight down onto the chipboard, but if someone says they’ll warranty the job without even a 3.6mm (aka 4mm) ply binder then it’s on their head I guess. I’ve never laid anything directly onto particle boards, ever, but I have had lots of insurance work from others who did so.

Have a look at the Grundfos Comfort pump folks. "Most", maybe, which means you need to spend more time looking and reading Manifolds at the plant room only. This is how you delete the large bore dead legs at source. If you have "manifolds everywhere" then these will need to be fed from 22mm and will be the opposite to the solution of reducing dead legs.

Slow down..... This. Easy roof are another. Panel sizes change faster than the tray manufacturers can keep up with, and then they have to go for MCS certification which takes even more time. If you want contact details for a very good installer, ping me a PM. He can tell you what fits into what etc, and then you can go decide.

Another one for the free 1hr chat I offered you, lol. You are a tough cookie to crack....aka stubborn. Same here.

This is what pays my bills. So few people get this properly aligned before breaking ground. Grab this with both hands, it's just so much less stress. Watch the in's and out's, as most fill the space with pipe and forget it has to get back to the manifold somewhere.

I can't even imagine relying on the self adhesive to stay put during the pour. In the pic above, I gas nailed the feck out of each and every rail, and then went around with some P-clips where the pipe still refused to stay put.

Ok, so you may want to go for 12mm plywood everywhere else upstairs, and drop back to 6mm at the threshold of the bathroom doorway. That'll allow you the 'good job of it' plywood layer, and then a 6mm deficit for you to install a mat and some electric heating mat, submerged in SLC (use Mapei LINK as it has fibres), and then your LVT will be flush from the hallways to the bathroom floor. Everything needs priming, expect @Pocster, he's already primed to the hilt. Brush some primer / water solution over the floor and UFH immediately before mixing the SLC, as you need to lay 'wet on wet' here for success. Add 1/4 pint of water to the SLC right before you throw it onto the floor, after you mix it to their instructions.

He's a man of many words, mostly curious ones...............perhaps he should lay off the Stella's a bit

That cut was sheer laziness!

Great minds lol.....

I've lifted quite a few failed floors, and the most I've seen is some darkening of the foil, nothing more severe, as the side effect of the screed going down onto bare foil covered PIR. I assume any off-gassing would be happening only during the curing process, with maybe a tiny amount thereafter (if any). The biggest benefit of using the membrane with dry screed is to have markers to use to lay the pipe to. Makes life a lot easier, but I use the PIR that comes with the 100mm lines on it mostly, and favour dry screed, so not really needed afaic; (if liquid, then it's needed, yes).

https://www.protilertools.co.uk/product/ultra-tile-fix-proprimer-advanced-polymer-primer?msclkid=9ae67650c99f1ca414e81ff48b4305ea&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping%3A Pro Tiler Tools&utm_term=4585925567009231&utm_content=1.1 All Products - Pro Tiler Tools Most tile places will sell this or similar. Use it neat on the underside of the try, it may take a lot, and then on the floor dilute by 25% with water and get the deck sopping wet. Leave for 15 mins for the surface to saturate, then buff back off any excess with a sponge or tea-towel etc. Don't let it dry completely before sticking the tray down, tacky at most. Butter the floor, butter the underside of the tray, and then apply a notched bed to the buttered floor, and away to go. Aim for a consistency like clotted cream. What's the make up of the rest of the bathroom floor around the tray? Plywood and tiles? UFH mat to go in? Best result would be if you glue and screw 6mm plywood down onto the entire floor area, and then stick the tray down on that. Is it exposed particle board (caber) or Egger? If Egger (laminated) then you'll defo need to ply first.

I've begun insulating everything, just for belt and braces, but just 9mm thick wall on colds. For any long-ish runs, it'll always be tepid as the amount of water to run to fill a glass will be the same as the dead leg of cold from the stopcock to the outlet. The only way to get cold drinks is to run the tap until your tepid is all down the plughole, insulation won't do anything for this.

Why did you say "almost certainly"...... Living this way will shorten a persons life.

Shhhhhh. You'll spoil the surprise.

Again you point blank refuse to listen to a word I am saying. You just described my house. Single brick uninsulated 2 storey extension that equalises with outdoor temp withing a few hours, on a hill with a stream running through the centre of the property, where after a week of zero rain it's still a full flowing thoroughfare. Single glazed windows in wooden frames for the two windows, but I have put new uPVC 2G everywhere else. 4 fire places with chimney stacks ventilated to the skys, etc. Absorb this information. Accept it. These are facts, not the fiction you keep throwing in my face. So. AGAIN, you are trying to tell me what my house is made of. Stop doing so, it's quite insulting. I have CLEARLY stated uninsulated, floors, walls, roof etc. So you are wrong. As far as my background, it's enough to allow me to execute a 100% refurb and extend, one day, when I'm not busy working my ass off 24/7/365 to provide for 6 people on one income. This is a turd that remains unpolished as tiny improvements are a waste of time (which I don't have) and money (which will be preserved for later when doing this properly). So my choice is to pay a bit more over winter, to heat this turd, but heat it I do. As soon as a bit of sun comes out the bill starts dropping, because the stone walls are actually on a par with a PH fabric as they are nearly half a metre thick. The only "period" I am going to be on, is a sabbatical from this thread, as your level of disrespect is quickly becoming immeasurable. Stop telling me something that you are guessing, and getting wrong, repeatedly.

Don't forget to have 5 pints of Stella first.

One way the cutter tries to open, the other it wants to bite down. You need the latter. Practice on a piece of 22mm pipe then cut the fitting.

You don't take it to showers and baths etc, as these are single, high volume, constant flow (at high flow rate) outlets; the time taken to get hot water out of a shower turned on full wallop is very little. Compare this to a small mixer tap on a wash basin, where high frequency, small volumes (at much lower flow rate) of water are used. The wait to get premium hot water from these is significantly more problematic (most wash their hands and rinse off just as the hot water finally arrives and then turn the tap off with a line loaded with nice hot water that you never actually got to use). In a well insulated house, the delta will always be closer, from ambient to pipe, so losses are actually lessened if there are no cold attics or voids under floors where pipework must live. Add to the mix an airtight house with MVHR, and the fact that all the pipes are within the heated and airtight envelope, and then you're going to end up recycling that latent heat back through the heat exchanger of the MVHR unit. I think this is less of a concern than most first think. Factor in the dead legs and excess water drawn off repeatedly, through the water meter, and then if you have solar and a heat pump, then annual energy costs would rise quite minimally (if at all if you are a net exporter). It's a lot of comfort for not much running cost TBH, and once to get used to that instantaneous hot water at certain strategic outlets, (kitchen sink and wash hand basins), you'll soon decide the tiny sacrifice is well worth it. Add to that the fact that I always fit a secondary TMV to the HRC so water no hotter than 48oC arrives at wash basins, and then there's no need to be faffing about trying to get the temp right so you can wash your hands. Just flick the tap to the hot position, and open it each time, and you get the same temp each time, near zero wait, near zero wasted water. HRC pipework is defo a candidate for being as well insulated as is possible, of course, so when plumbing a whole house for a client I take a 15mm DHW flow and a 10mm HRC return to each preselected outlet, and wrap the 2 pipes together in a single piece of pipe insulation, parting them just before the start and end of the run. A piece of 25mm wall x 22mm ID insulation works a charm here, so on a full new build I'll open up a 100m coil of 15mm and same for 10mm and tape the ends together and fasten them to a far wall. Then I'll start to work my way back down the length, for 20-30m or so, then I'll feed that umbilical through the posis and cut and repeat until the HRC runs are complete. The clipping is done around the insulation, not to the pipes, so a bit of all-round patent band ticks the box here. The 15mm and the 10mm can be joined at the basins, terminating immediately before the final 90o bend that feeds the tap, eg so there's near zero dead leg of ambient water to discharge ahead of getting premium temp DHW out. At this point you pretty much open the tap and take your hand off it, and the hot water's flowing by the time you've placed your hands under the tap. I use a Hep2o 15x15x10mm (centre reduced) tee, with a 10mm spigot bend in the centre, so the 15mm hot and 10mm are parallel entering the tee. The remaining 15mm outlet of the 15x15x10mm tee is the pipe that then feeds the hot of the tap.

Yes, where the red arrow is. Use the pushfit pipe cutter, slight rotation as you cut.

Will the absorption of all these natural energies not have some eventual knock-on effect?

A PITA, but if the glass IS actually etched, then maybe try mopping it with some G3 or G10 compound LINK as this is what I used to polish with cars back in the day when I worked for a high-end car sales as a detailer (when I had more hair and less creaky joints).