Nickfromwales

Filth. “Mary had a little bike, she rode it back to front”. There. You happy now that I’m in the gutter too ? ?

Please remain “within acceptable parameters”

Just weld up some 30mm steel box. That’s cheaper than shoplifting. Can you mig weld? Or even arc ?

Oh, that’s a relief ?

Waste of time and money. You’ll only get a pint out of a pint pot me ol’ china mug. ? Cold mains priority is only ever practised when you have a 22mm cold main With 15mm I only ever take the outside tap off directly after the stopcock.

He should have fitted a tank fed electric shower ?. You can still retro fit it if you have access to a bit of attic space ?

Aluminium box section is what I'd use. Whack that on top of the fence posts and that'll last the duration.

Going to be making a ~2700mm x 900mm wetroom former over posijoists next week ? Got the linear drain, just not entirely sure what to do after that.......yet. “Each DIY wetroom shower former comes with a free pair of wellies “?

Looks good for the money. A little deep though at 35mm plus downward projection. Would you not consider a Wetroom former ? Link

Ooh, then battery powered LED Xmas lights going up the lines. Patent pending. ?

Two drawing pins into the top ( top not face ) of the door and some fishing line between the two as a cradle.

Do you have a link to the one you’re considering?

These were never plumbed in series, always in parallel as an ‘alternative’ source of DHW due to flow restriction. 17ltr/p/m is ok but for two showers at the same time you’ll be pushing it. Plus, at anywhere near 17lpm the Steibel would be giving you huge quantities of cold water. @Stones, how many times have you run out ? ?

Grant have been fit and forget in every instance for the last 15 years. Last one fitted about 4 years ago and still going strong in a large and unsympathetic dwelling.

One of the reasons I wouldn't fit one. This is a case of prevention is better than cure IMO. Just hit the immersion and job done, thats if you actually need it thats is. A 300L UVC set up correctly should give bags of DHW. Lets say Joe Blogs asks for one to be fitted. All up I bet you'd be in for a minimum of £500.00 £500 worth of electricity would get you around 3,500 kWh of juice. Put that through an ASHP and use a multiplier of 2.5 ( SCoP ) and you have ~8,700 kWh to spend on "boost". You then dont have to worry about running out of water and telling the family to slow the flow down when you run out of hot water Turn up the stat Dave ! Case dismissed. As a note, these instant heaters are routinely fitted ( multiples of ) in places like McDs and KFCs as doomsday devices, so if the UVCs go off for any reason the restaurants ( lol ) can simply switch manual lever valves and divert to the instants in order to tick the boxes required to stay open.

If you look at @ProDave's specific instance its not quite 'normal' as in he has turned his cylinder stat down to the absolute lowest temp he can get away with, which then massively reduces the quantity of DHW you can yield from a 300L tank. 300L is a bloody decent sized tank, even from an ASHP, so running out of water is ( IMO ) self inflicted ( sorry Dave ). Is the Steibel on a cyl stat so it can only be energised if the cylinder falls below a certain temp? If not, thats going to routinely use grid electricity to fortify DHW production? How do you have it set up? Joe, in times of known high DHW consumption you simply hit a 30 min or 1 hour boost button and pop the immersion on to fortify the DHW production The immersion will take the tank from the ASHP set point up to way over 70oC and give you oodles of DHW at full flow rate. I genuinely don't think running huge cables to massively powered but still very slow flow rate instant heaters, and having to buy said device, is a good idea. The cylinders already have an immersion fitted, so why not just use that? Deliciously simple AFAIC.

Half a box of mince pies probably ?

I’ve been earthing every single one with fly leads. Just seems sensible to do that from the PoV that any installer that comes behind you won’t then start screaming that you’ve carried out a dangerous install. Makes me feel better regardless of functionality tbh. Fortifying the earth is no bad thing afaic.

Qty 2

Drain down 20 litres or so and bung it in the f&e tank ?

Stops the pump flow bypassing through the cylinder when heating and hot water are flowing in unison. It is exactly that, a balancing valve. It’s job is to give proportional flow to the cylinder instead of 100% of what’s available.

Oil boilers will chew most shit up tbh. X400 and leave it break down for a month, rinse it all out and check performance.

Is it the pilot light in the boiler ? Static vans don’t often have electronic ignition devices, instead you have the piezo button to spark and ignite manually. That flame is there 24/7

Ola ! Nothing bad will happen, just the system will chose to heat the lowest resistance ‘legs’ and the ones furthest away from the pump will either go lazy or not come on at all. Turn the TRVs off on all the working radiators and run for an hour. Let us know then if the duff ones start to heat up ?

Not quite. The PV uses a pipe stat ( thermistor ) iirc on the return pipe to detect temp rise. Way more reliable in its measurement of what was going on in the PCM. That was; turn on stay on heat until satisfied turn off monitor output temp when flow reversed when low enough turn on repeat. Not quite as straightforward with the Uniqs.