Nickfromwales

Has this passed B-Regs on such low volume airflow from the bathrooms? I only fit a single run for an extract if it's a cloakroom and less than a few metres to the plant / manifold. Every single bathroom has always had; double runs to a single valve, or two independent runs to two separate valves in the same room ( for a larger bathroom ) and same for kitchens ( dual or split dual ). Makes things a LOT quieter on boost too.

Don't forget the insect / vermin stainless mesh under that additional external insulation

I'd add a vertical rip of 25mm thick PIR at the screed perimeter too, so you're less exposed at the periphery of the heated floor, eg so just the plasterboard sits atop the screed, rather than the service batten & plasterboard.

Just use joint profiles like these and leave the router alone! 12mm is very little meat to be cutting into.

Tell them you'll pay when you're happy and not a second before.

Should have tidied up before the photos tbh, that looks like a shithole.

Struggling to find anything to dislike there, and I looked twice Really nice touch with the RAL heads and cills in the outside window & door reveals, have noted ( stolen ) that for future brownie points. Really liking the study / office at the back of the landing space. Architect input or your own ideas mostly?

+1. Got me out of the shit a good few times. You'll need some elbow grease though. Best is to do this literally two tiles at a time or you'll be filling yourself with false hope ( as you're probably aware it's nigh-on impossible to tell good from bad when wet ).

...and finally, the last three digits on the back of your card please.

In that case, lol; And welcome!

Hi. I think you should define “starting from scratch” as that can mean a lot of different things! Are you taking the floors out to get insulation and UFH fitted or do you plan on replacing the storage heaters with conventional radiators? In that type of property, if you’re not hugely improving insulation ( eg fitting EWI and possibly IWI ) and draught-proofing the place pretty well then I doubt it could be a candidate for an ASHP ( Air Source Heat Pump ) as the flow temperature is a lot lower and therefore radiators would need to be nearly twice the size of those run off higher temperature eg gas / oil. Fabric first please, so we know what we’re dealing with

Is there a vent to atmosphere on the house? If so that should be suffice. You can vent low level from the tank at the boundary too, if it won’t be a nuisance to neighbours. Or, at a garage / outbuilding. Put a paving slab over the one at the tank and redo the one travelling away?

And a flitch + regular solid timber joists is a cheap as chips solution. Tres bien, Rodney.

"it's not pink, it's salmon!" Agree on the export limitation being a negative, but FYI it's inbuilt into SolarEdge inverters IIRC and they have dry capacitors and a 12 year warranty.

+1. Just about to say the same thing. Will make the detailing around the furthest skylight less of a ball-ache too. Flitch beam should be ample, and easy to bring in and man-handle into place piece by piece.

That's 3 phase I'm pretty sure. You can see 4 connectors L1 L2 L3 and neutral. FYI you could also ask the DNO to fit 8kWp and employ export limitation down to 3.9kW if 3-phase isn't a goer. I assume you'll get a 3-phase inverter if you go 3-phase supply? Fronius are very good.

Count the number of wires that form the twisted trunk, or are these a run of single strands off a pole? This is 3-phase or twisted? This could be 2 or 3 phase so more difficult to tell.

Reading back over this, and that's bloody impressive stuff.

Walks with a limp, very timid.

All the blinds I’ve seen so far do allow you to see out quite a lot if it’s light outside. A bit like really heavy net curtains. Blinds ( solar ) have lots of tiny round holes in them so they’re ‘perforated’ rather than solid blind.

Is that not the case with the Sage when tinted? edit : when fully tinted

You could try a brick acid to see what is left in 'stubborn' cement, as acid should clean the residual cement of the faces of the cobbles at least and leave you with what remains. That will need to be scrubbed ( stiff broom if light residue or wire brush if heavy residue ) so approach your guy and ask for that to be done before summarising. If mortar ( the cement mix ) is already coming loose then it's not good news. At the very least these loose patches need 'raking' out and re-doing.

Looking good And the gazebo is shaping up too

....and we can only hope that he never reads this......

Thought it was @Onoff that wrote that for a mo.......?