Nickfromwales

Whats the score with Dropbox. Bar stewards want money off me to use their service. Cheek of it. ?

Nope. You f*****d it up mate

Ola. Damn, hours in the day are getting bloody well thin. Apologies. Something rigid like pvc tube over the thread would be better than anything soft tbh. Strange the pan didn’t come with captive nylon ‘sleeves’ tbh, but at the end of the day as long as metal and porcelain never meet it’ll be chips ‘n’ gravy Bob. The fact it’s bonded to the wall will stop movement eroding the sleeve so “carry on”. ??

Clocks ticking ??

Paint is your friend here. Get a small piece of batten, try and get it bonded in behind the hole. If that’s not possible then fill with foam first and cut a 50p sized piece of Pb and bond that in 3-4mm shy of the face. Leave 48hrs min to cure. Mix pva and water 50/50 and apply with a small brush, coating app 100mm around the hole, and make sure you saturate the open grain of the Pb. Apply a good few coats until you know the dusty ? is all sealed up. Get some Toupret filler, and mix it like pâté ramming it intonthe gaps. Smooth it off once with a debit card / similar, once north then east / s & w and leave to dry. Beware trying to feck about with it at this stage as you’ll start the paper peeling. Once dry ( toupret can be dried with a hairdryer without shrinking or grinning ) sand the filler not the paper and then reassess to see if any more filler is required and reapply as necessary. Youre looking to get the filler flush as possible with the face and then back to my opening statement. Buy a thick chalky paint like Leyland High Opacity and brush a thick coat over the repair epicentre. Leave to dry. Do the same each morning and evening until you’ve gone to a patch of paint around 400mm diameter with the centre being thick as you can muster. Leave for a few days to go bone dry. Then start sanding back with 240 grit wrapped around a piece of 3x2 ( no sharp corners, rough those up with a bit of scrap wood first before going near the wall ) and block sand the paint over the repair. When you get to the point it’s looking ready to re-paint use a 400 grit paper to sand the periphery to a similar standard. Leave alone at that stage and repaint the whole wall with the same chalky paint as if you were painting from scratch. Build up a couple of layers and assess. The shine of the fresh paint as it’s filleted on will give you a ‘reflection’ which will show if any stage needs repeating. Dont use any tape etc or you’ll be doomed......doomed I tells ya ! When happy, chuck the colour coat back over and vow never to make holes in paper walls ever again. ?

Hi and welcome. We prefer discussion with known / existing build methods as they are of immediate relevance. Hopefully that will be observed Many thanks Mods.

There are many people out there blabbering on about super-insulated / eco-friendly / low energy build approaches, but most are talking out of their arsehole I'm finding of late. One client stated "near passive build standard" and then showed me their plans for 70mm of PIR over cold ventilated block and beam with UFH pipes atop in 80mm of screed.....WTF?!? Another building a low energy home in block, but not even approached by either the architect or the builder about parge-coating or using wall plates instead of sockets into the cavity. That's the money shot. With no accurate direction most builders will just revert to the same standard they pedalled out for the last 20 years. I have actually caught one builder purposefully dissuading a client from putting 200mm of PIR under the heated screed in a summer room, 10 minutes after I told the client to order it for the builder to install. Idiot. The terms get banded about too loosely, and as BR don't 'go that high' nothing gets enforced. BCO's are overjoyed to see 5mm more insulation,

The overlay systems need a painfully accurate control system to stop over & under shoot of the set room thermostat set point. These types of floors continuously give me a headache as I get called out to installs for rental / residential tenants who just cannot get their head around UFH, and the usage patterns of. They typically need a higher water temp to achieve what a slab would do with say 10oC lower flow temp, so suffer from the hysteresis of the floor not being accurately responded to by the room stat or the heat source. FWIW, I would not quote for an overlay system as its a PITA to control and an equally large PITA to get a customer / end user to understand how to use it properly. Not a fan, sorry.

I think that'll be dependant on the pan. That thing your holding, IIRC, is the bit that sits on the threaded bar to stop metal meeting porcelain. Some ( most ) pans come with captive fittings which stop that happening, and I've noticed a few frames have come with kit which ends up redundant / binned.

Separate your heating and hot water ‘thinking’ as they’re two very different things. The boiler will be able to do both heating and hot water ( re-heating the hot water cylinder) with ease, even with a kW rating as low as 14-18kW. That 30kW boiler in @nod‘s is very big but will be able to reheat the cylinder a bit quicker. Its the kW rating of the coil inside the cylinder that decides how you convey heat from the boiler ( primary ) circuit to useful hot water though, and you can have for eg a 60kW boiler and a 10kW coil and still be waiting as only 10kW will be conveyed at any one time. Not so simple a question so needs a little more understanding so you can ask the right questions

As these types of boards / trays are ‘soft’, do not use a mosaic smaller than 50x50mm

Yes. These types of panel form a DPM. You’ll need to make sure the adhesive used to bond them down doesn’t ooze upwards through the joints as that will bridge the board. For dofferebt thicknesses, use different boards. They’re available in 25mm, 20mm, 10mm and 6mm Just bond together the ones which make up the required depths, and these are easy to cut with an old saw / Stanley knife. Use a similar type of shower tray former and it’s a no-brainer.......Link

WHOA! Forget about screed Fit some insulated tile backer boards down and get it arrow flat and not cold to stand on to boot bingo

Pointing up looks better. Locksheilds are indifferent as far as the 1000's I've fitted go You can get a bit of extra audibility if facing what could be considered the wrong way, but only if the valve is dialled right back to balance a huge system. Not a problem in your system so do what looks right. Pointing down looks naff IMO.

Swap it for another already existing, there, known working one I mean

Or the blending valve. Pump would be my first thought so just isolate it, swap it for another and see if the fault stays or follows.

It does sound like the impeller isn’t turning / seizing somehow. How long has it been running for?

I’ve just started knocking these out as it goes. £3k + vat. “Limited stock remaining, purchase now to avoid disappointment”

Or maybe the impeller on the pump has become partially detached. An Automatic bypass is sometimes fitted into the pump / blending set ( the pump group connected to the two manifold rails ) to allow the pump to continue to run when only a few or a single loop are calling for heat. Depends on the make / type of set was purchased. Any link to the MI’s ?

Automatic bypass on the manifold playing up ?

I think the aqualisa one looks 100 times better tbh. And the Mira I was referring to was the one you linked to in the first bump eg the basic valve without the box of gubbings. That's a fall-back if you HAVE to run direct off gravity with no pump.

I bought a deep square socket that went in the impact for putting these tails in. Bloody thing was terrifying. Used it once, then it went into the 'safe place' I keep all the other crap things ive bought.

15-18 turns on most rad valves should suffice, but you need to stop turning when the threads meet the rad as they'll keep going until it pops out the other side ( inside the rad ). I wouldn't threadlock them as they may not be un-doable afterwards. Only bother with that if they keep coming loose.

Sometimes its a gift, sometimes a curse...….

As per the above pics, or fit the Aqualisa pumped digital shower. One customer recently said he'd had no issues with the pumped version, plus when I fitted a SA for him and removed his hot water cylinder I simply ordered the replacement high pressure hot / cold digital mixer unit to replace the gravity ( pumped ) one. Took an hour to upgrade so if you ever ditch the gravity system you wont have to change the shower. Other option is to go for a regular mixer shower and put a pump in the attic ( which I think will need to be a negative head type as it'll have no gravity for initial 'start up' flow ), and then if you change to a combi boiler later on again that would need no alteration other than taking the pump out of line. @TheMitchells the Mira is a very expensive but is a very robust valve, with remarkably good flow with poor pressure. What head do you have ? ( what is the distance between the shower head outlet as fitted, and the bottom of the cold water tank in the attic )?