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pdiddy

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  1. Hi all, Just looking for a little bit of advice in undertaking some maintenance of the burner and looking for some advice please. My baffle plate fell inside the burner during a burn (i had the flue cleaned and don't think it was set properly past the pins). After re-setting the baffle plate, i noticed broken fire cement in the inside of the flue (not photographed). This seemed to be where the flue met the spigot. The cement was cracked and loose so I've removed it. I assume this had been undertaken during the install because the gaps are very small - see 'spigot to flue' photo. There are actually 2 gaps and i'm wondering what i should use as the gaps aren't particular big. Similarly, i have another gap further up the flue. See flue to closure plate photo. 1 no of the gaps is between flue and closure plate and the other is what i assume (maybe wrongly), between the uninsulated and insulated flue sections. Would appreciate your thoughts please, thanks.
  2. Sorry dpmiller. Was a bit of a rant as i was getting frustrated yesterday. I've got a digital thermometer and I'm measure the flow and return on the 3 loops.. the l per second value I need to obtain is approx 1 in each loop but I can't adjust the flow meters precisely enough. So what ends up happening is the 42 degrees I have at the mixer reduces as there's too much flow. I'm not sure if there is an easier way to balance this. I.e. closing 2 loops first then sorting one loop, for example. I'm close to getting someone in to sort it as it's not been flushed and cleaned this year however leading up to Christmas Is not the best time and all. Thank you and sorry for the non specific message
  3. I've had a bloody guts full with this manifold and the micrometric balancing valves. They simply don't work. Small adjustments end up saturating the pump! How on earth do people set these things!
  4. or even this: https://www.stevensonplumbing.co.uk/myson-m28-to-m30-trv-thread-adaptor.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAv9ucBhBXEiwA6N8nYPOZ0q--YrulgJZciv7C4XP1jmQrRufJi6uigVWiwvVboNM_kOcjcBoCx5sQAvD_BwE
  5. Hi valmiki, did you ever try an adapter for the salus? I've read elsewhere on the forums people have suggested they work with the salus is this what we need? https://adria.giacomini.com/sr/products/p19 I really think the flow meter adjustment on the manifold for the giacomini is awful. i think the salus would really help so opening this up again and seeing if anybody on the forum has used it with the giacommini, thanks
  6. Thanks for your honesty. I think its possible.....I hope...otherwise will need to send them all back It's a r553fk giacomini manifold and the instructions for their own electrical actuators show the inner cap (pictured) removed. Removing the actual outer turn cap was easy.. They just dont show how to remove the inner cap in any of their instructions.tbh they're not clear at all!
  7. Thanks dave.. That's what I thought but they are all pretty tight. I think I need to pull the plastic beyond the brass restecitors (if that makes sense).....although that might be a bodge
  8. Trying to install the salus auto balancing valve and just wondering how I remove the plastic cap pictured to the right. I dont want to force it so thought I'd check on here first . Thanks
  9. Thanks old and fly Responses to comments below Pressure does increase above 1.5. I've noticed it at 2 today. Not sure if this a problem The floor is tiled porcelain Heat source is a worcester bosh greenstar set at 55 degrees flow The loops length are all approx same around 70m. Not sure of exact lengths installed. Maybe 10m difference possibly. They are laid concentric I believe. I've had a go at adjusting the loops and wow...its sensitive and at such low flow rates it's hard to know what I'm setting it to. Maybe I need salus too...how easy is it to fit these bad boys? Does system need draining down? Thanks again.
  10. Hi all. I've had a recent extension with underfloor heating manifold (r553fx giagomini manifold) installed consisting of 3 loops in the same zone with a nest thermostat. I've got approximate lengths, pitch, which I have on Giacomimi drawing that was given to the builder. I'm not convinved the builder has bakanced the system. I have 1 loop which doesn't heat up as well as others and has a colder patch which also makes me think it has air in it. I also lose pressure so i think there may be air in the system, I would appreciate some advice on the below first of all to ascertain optimal performance/energy and then work my way back sorting air locks/pressure etc: My boiler is set at 55degrees flow he flow temperature gauge is about 42 (the drawing says this should be 55). The thermostat mixing valve is set to about 3. the return temp gauge is about 28 (the drawing says this should be 45 with delta t of 10) the pressure gauge shows 1.5 (black line) and 4 bar (red line) loop 1 appears to suggest 0.5 l/min. (the drawing says this should be 0.9 l/min) loop 2 appears to suggest 2 l/min (the drawing says this should be 1.10 l/min) loop 3 appears to suggest 0.5 l/min (the drawing says this should be 1.2 l/min) the valves for all 3 loops are turned fully anticlockwise (the drawing says alve sets should be set to 0.25) if anything i've written doesn't make sense please let me know as I'm not a plumber! thanks.
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