Nickfromwales

I'd defo still insulate to some degree, maybe just 6mm or 10mm Marmox boards, to get the steel isolated as best as practicable. Cost is negligible, results far better. CT1 the Marmox on, to clean, decontaminated red oxide or liquid DPM, and then you can bond the timber to the Marmox for a face-fixing-free finish with zero cold bridging.

Been bitten once, so now I leave the multimeter hooked up whilst laying, if I'm not self levelling. I use mitre bond and activator to pin the UTH mats / wires down, as once the bastards float you're screwed! I use the grout float to skim the wires / mats so there's no metal trowel going against them, and always fit a second, redundant probe for the thermostat in case the original one carks it Thanks. Got the knees and back to show for it though!

Probably blowing out of the PRV (pressure relief valve). Check to see if the blow off pipe, the 15mm copper pipe poked out through the wall, is letting water out. Zip tie a sandwich bag over it, making sure rain can’t collect in it and give you a false reading, and report back. A few smallness leaks will defo have an impact, but maybe not as much as you’re seeing. Possible cause is the expansion vessel has snuffed it, or needs re-pressurising.

For tiling on to yes. For fixing and priming the substrates and underlayment, then its perfectly good! Been doing this for 30 plus years. Above those layers you use a tile primer such as Ultra, if it's needed. No need whatsoever to screw these boards down, does nothing but waste screws, time and money.

Use a Y-branch (135 degree) and not a T Put a 'single socket' 135 bend in the branch, and then go vertical to pick up the WC. That means when the goods in transit hit the branch they're already heading towards the stack, instead of dropping into a T with a "thud". https://skyplastics.co.uk/pushfit-135-deg-triple-socket-branch-110mm-black.html?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=11823408165&gbraid=0AAAAACepU-bFP3X5wMqLbWz1M4ZiHqX2W&gclid=Cj0KCQiAy6vMBhDCARIsAK8rOgldyshF_iNQbKD8AmrMjpPTNH97RAhWJvgKNEN-Zg3keFU2keaNwhUaAp4XEALw_wcB https://skyplastics.co.uk/110mm-single-socket-135-bend-2.html

You just need 6mm or 10mm tile insulation (not cement backer) boards, set down into flexible tile adhesive over the original chipboard flooring (cleaned and primed with 50/50 water/PVA immediately before laying) and then put the UTH wire on to the insulation board and off to go. Done loads of these over the years, on concrete or timber, ground and 1st (and 2nd) floors, and no issues. You can tell when they lack experience, when they only quote directly what the manufacturer or rep recommends.

The hangers are just fixed into the Celcon blocks, so out of the fire, and into the frying pan. Just ask your builder to ping string lines for the hangers to be dead straight and level, as that is often 'nearly good', but could have been better. ....."only"..... which are strong as feck. Ledgers are held up by bolts, not by the resin. Bolts for the sheer strength, and clamping force, and the resin anchor for holding the bolts (M16 bars) in place. I'd happily argue that multiples of small fixings using expansion for their means of purchase would degrade the material that the block was made out of, as these are many, and very close together. @Gus Potter @saveasteading?

400kpa, sorry, I'm a dick.

Bastard.

We're dropping DPC by 500mm on a current knock-down, but retaining (or slightly raising) the original ridge height. At +200mm ridge height, I doubt anyone would a) notice, or b) give a shit. If the old biddy next door can see the church tower clock before you know down, and cant see it afterwards, expect trouble, for eg, so each case is completely unique in being able to advise for / against "pushing one's luck".

We aimed for an SCOP 6 at Leicester, always a big "ask", but for a system sold to Joe public we're happy with mid 5's, very happy actually. Your near 6 is pretty much unheard of, excellent result, so I assume an SCOP of mid 5's at yours, also? Are you still "dialling this in" as it were?

Strip off 3 layers, and then recut the last undercut to make it reach into the gutter. Then relay the 3 courses, stretching each course by 18mm or so to get the additional length. Shouldn't affect the overlap requirement, but if its already a small overhang on each course then go to 4 courses removed, and stretch by 15mm per, when relaying. Should be fine, hopefully, but you'll need to measure each course and overhang to decide. Biggest bodge is fitting new facia over existing wood, as it pushes it our further. Ends of timbers straight cut, instead of plumb cut, so a facia can't be practically fixed, and so on. Just a bit shit, but easily salvageable with a bit of DIY skill and time / effort. If removing courses, then prepare to have to fix a new run of membrane too, as that will need to extend to match the slates; you'll need to add a new 600mm 'skirt' at the least.

Do the fixings in vertical pairs, 75mm down from the top of the ledger, and 75mm up from the bottom, and repeat until you have run out of money to buy more resin and bar. You'll only get one chance to do this right, so invest in the important things. 100% defo blow the holes out as above, but this will be your builders job and you'll need to impress upon them the job is wanting doing properly where he may say "don't teach me to suck eggs", even if under his breath of in his head..... If they're not on day rates, offer to pick up the tab for the extra hours adding more fixings, which should keep them happy. Joist hanging off legers is the way forward here for sure, as long as the fixings are at higher frequency AND robust.

No doubt, lol.

It's like picking one single grain of sand off a beach and polishing it for a few hours and saying it's a diamond. As above, it's just not achievable as nobody has enough GIF to do absolutely amazing work for the same price as someone else making it a bag of shit. Public just won't or can't spend this amount on capital 'adventure', especially if they're not living there for the rest of their lives, which they'd need to do for the ROI. Great TV though, I'm sure, ......as is GD.......

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Blue-Circle-Quick-Set-Concrete---20kg/p/133769?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMAX Shopping||Cement %26 Aggregates&gad_source=4&gad_campaignid=20270986274&gbraid=0AAAAADs4IsYOANBSeLHJsbmqj-njvueG3&gclid=Cj0KCQiAy6vMBhDCARIsAK8rOgnDqse4ZsMWkB6Z9L53s2aHSe14vWE4qM_8lLBu7BpXN81UQ7X4ZrsaAogrEALw_wcB

The ones on the motorway get me, bad enough in a car but must be horrific for bikers.

Does it need to be so complex, and does it need to be proportional? https://www.flowfitonline.com/products/electric-floating-level-gauge-no-nc-with-1-switch-contact-l-400mm?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21794319016&gbraid=0AAAAADzzHCEY_4iDYCgXisebrdUdhSWTm&gclid=Cj0KCQiAy6vMBhDCARIsAK8rOgk-rdyVGK0LD4-SkDkY2XZI24iZ0BafQP_MQK02LpIHahQhGC0SI8YaAhekEALw_wcB Cheaper ones about, just a random grab. @Alan Ambrose, 2 of these maybe, at different heights, and a dual pump setup may be better (simpler and more reliable)?

And people are snapping these houses up as fast as they can finish them (or not quite finish them).

@Allthegearnoidea Worlds shittest drawing, free-styling off my iPhone atm, but should explain what I mean.

Where the new 110mm pipe travels horizontally to meet the new stack, just lower that so you can come out of the house, and drop down into a branch, and then the 50mm waste goes into the back of the branch. Saves the long 50mm waste run to the stack.

I thought it was the 400 micron for tiling etc directly on to? I’d want that spec anyways, if using this system, as it’ll be a much more efficient emitter / diffuser of heat. As above, get at least 3-5mm of SLC down, but who cares if it cracks? In actuality, it’ll be hidden under the flooring and the glued joints (and the fact it’s all glued down robustly) will keep it controlled. Shouldn’t affect the parquet at all imho. Have you checked that the parquet is suitable for 27° or above? You’ll need to run this at quite high temp to be effective at heating the room. The SLC would help a lot here, so don’t omit it!! If you can do 5-8mm or 10mm then do so. Consider mesh matting as a binder, if you’re really panicking about cracking / degradation of the SLC.

My son drives down to Illfracombe and popped a front tire in what he described as a canyon sized pothole, got a £150 breakdown fee to get him off a bloody dangerous stretch of road, and then popped the replacement brand new tire down there on the way back home. Double ffs, with added (expletive deleted).

A pic from outside would help.