carlos21

That last photo looking up doesnt look great to me, the new wood looks very close, im no expert though. I have had our linner catch fire before and it generates a lot of heat. Could you cut back the drylinning around the fireplace ?

Thanks.

I would not have thought the colour would change that much, but iam no expert, i guess just try it out for yourself, i recon 7 buckets would be annoying,

A slight thread hijack if thats ok, how do you prep the marmox board( mine isnt marmox brand but simmilar, ie cement mesh outer layer with foam inner). Ready for gypsum skim, ?? I already did a small patch and i just gave it a coat of pva the night before to help control exessive suction, it seemed to skim up ok.... is it all gona fall off next week? Lol. Thanks carl

Why would there be a variation in colour?

I used those 12.5mm marmox boards in pretty much the same situation, as suggested by folk on here( id never heard of them). I would use plenty of expsnfing foam to fix to the masonary with airtight sealant against the window frame( beware its very hard to remove from the frame if your messy!!) You can get special thin insulation washers used with screws which would fix to the timber frame and i would imagine the board should stay pretty plumb i just held mine against the masonsry until the foam had gone off. I used an airtight tape which you can skim over to connect the boards to the vapour barrier.

I thought it was interesting, do you work in the building trade? Although i do hope your wrong as i have used pir boards in some parts of the house!! I have spent years trying to work out whats best to do, i think not buying an old stone house is a good start lol. Thanks for posting, carl

Well i got the tool, seems very very handy, been using it plasterboarding and even ended up using a scraper blade to cut fiberglass batt insulation that i was struggling to cut with a stanley knife. As far as the makita machine i got is concerned it seems fine but i havent used any others. I ve just been using blades from a cheap set i got in lidls. Thanks for the advice, glad i got one. Only downside is its a particularly annoying noise , but i wear eardeffenders a lot so no biggie. Thanks carl

Id add a straight connector onto existing pipe as that elbow looks awkward to get too.

Cool, thanks for the replies, well i ordered one so i will soon know what i think, i have never used one before, but i can see it being handy for awkward cuts etc. Thanks again, Carl

How usefull are these tools? Not sure whether i need one( would only be getting a cheaper end makita one)

Thanks, just had a look at that and its really helpfull for what will work, all our space, headroom is very limited so it was good to see the different configurations that are still in regs. i was looking at stair x lite app, but the free version didnt do the type of stairs i want to build, i may still get the paid pro version as it gives you detailed cutting lists etc. Thanks again carl

Hi Iam looking for reccomendations for stair design apps, it is for a sawcut L shaped winder stairs, nothing fancy just functional. Thanks carl

Thanks for the replies, sorry slow to get back, yes i will and have used mechanical fixings in conjunction with spray foam, i find the foam great on uneven stone. In terms of whether its a good idea to put insulated pb onto stone, im still not sure and have spent a long time thinking about it, but i wasnt sure about the whole lime render thing either. I wont be doing large areas mostly just window reveals. On a side note does dot n dabed normal plasterboard need mechical fixings too.?

Sorry for slow reply Iam fixing insulated plasterboard to stonewalls mostly and some on concrete blocks. The fixings i have used in the past created tiny black spots from condensation from cold bridging.