Nickfromwales

Sounds like it needs (or would benefit from) a ‘backdrop’ chamber? As above, get a (good) groundworker in and get a professional opinion. When they suggest a solution, then go to the BCO and ask if that satisfies their expectations.

Indeed! My only reservation about AB is I think they need to up their game here, in terms of looking more meticulously at what potential damage could be done and to mitigate against it before doing the treatment. For eg, on the job I posted about here recently, the underbelly of the MVHR unit had 2 open ports and I hadn’t yet connected the condensate, so these were ports where air would have flooded in, gone right through the unit internals, and out through the 2 roof vents. That would have been catastrophic imho. I think they need to have a checklist for any time they attend partially completed projects, to seek and identify these types of things. Possibly a pre-visit email stating where these possible leaks / faux pas may exist and asking the client to prepare these accordingly, ahead of their visit. I'm seriously impressed with AeroBarrier, and I will be using them into the future with my new and future self build clientele, as it’s a very, very good system and the results were amazing. However, they do need to button this loose end up as it’s only my diligence (in putting 2 layers of duct tape over these MVHR ports) that stopped that unit from being (potentially) wrecked. I also blocked off every single room vent very robustly too, as obviously you cannot have any open MVHR ceiling terminals during this treatment. That’s my only criticism. edited to add: I assume AB would have blocked off all the MVHR vents as standard practice, I’m just happier if I know these are done ‘my way’.

If you’ve got MVHR and you’re going with AB then make sure you seal everything up, so the airborne sealant can’t get into it and exit through the unit internals to outside.

A bag on the red one should be the kiddy.

You’ll need it installed house wide, if you can’t then don’t. What is your as-built airtightness result?

I’ve given you contact details for one of the best screeders you’ll ever meet. Family run business, with dad having passed the baton to his sons. One of their previous projects was an £80m 8-storey mega house for a wealthy chap in London.

My mate (details have been shared with the op btw) did @Russell griffiths place, and I’ve used him for 25 years. When I say you can paint it green and play snooker on it, I’m not joking.

There’s near zero ‘ripples’ if you lay a dry screed properly, it’s trowelled by hand to float it almost completely flat.

You’re being racist to me now eh?

No minibar then??? 🫣

This. Same as carpet fitters, lay one side, move furniture over, lay the other side, put furniture back.

Apart for all the deaths, that’s a great idea A handful of solar PV panels, small UVC for hot water, and split AC for heating and cooling. Job done. ✔️.

Aka, ‘look the other way’, when a couple of windows are on night-latch vs fully shut.

This only matters at openings, and with a dry screed you can put a line of masking tape and draw a line across it and tell them to screed to that line. And they will. Then just feather the few places where it needs it, nothings ever perfect, and off to go.

There is no laitance with a dry screed? More accuracy, better finish, no follow up to get it ready, generally just better outcome. Also, it’s not a liquid, so less prep as it doesn’t want to find a gap and disappear down / into it. Then make life easy! Not sure what that’s all about. Last few cemfloor installs I’ve been on just needed sealing / priming etc.

Ok, so just get the test done and see if there’s a problem. Mechanical ventilation is just a powered fan, in whatever form that takes, so either push/pull like MVHR or single point extraction as per what you have.

Use my mate for the dry screed and you can pretty much paint it green and play snooker on it. You won’t need a full bed of SLC, your LVT installers will just use feathering compound wherever necessary (LINK) so less time and complexity and then it’s easier to manage trades. You should only need to do a full layer of SLC if you’re putting LVT down over a concrete slab. A good screeder will give you the result you want, save you time, and money.

If you’re not short of time, and your time is ‘free’ then don’t buy pre-folded tape? 200mm wide tape is something I’ve never seen or used, usually we’d just do multiples of runs of 50 or 60mm tape, but typically 80 and 90mm is the biggest stuff we use, with the largest being the window tape. That is where the backing is split like 15mm so you can just put that onto the window or door frame and not get tangled up with exposed self adhesive trying to grab on to everything in sight. Once you start you’ll get the hang of it quite quickly tbh. Get the consistency of the adhesive right, and it’ll be easy to work / manipulate, but if it’s too sloppy you’ll be finding it a horrible job. Get a plasterers hawk and a medium size plasterers trowel and that will speed things up.

Do the windows have trickle vents? Have you fitted extractor fans?

Nope, doubt it. The PRV discharge wouldn't T off. Combi needs 5 pipes, flow/return/gas/cold/hot. I see 5 pipes, so we're looking for pipe #6. Look directly up under the boiler, do you see another 15mm pipe heading off? Can you see this appear on an outside wall?

Yes, iirc he said the tunnel bunnies don't like to munch on it so much too.

All winter?

Here’s the last one I installed. Lagging was finished after leak testing.

I'm shocked that you haven't 3D printed them!!??

I have the 'soft impact' Makita, much quieter and doesn't screw with my Tinnitus. https://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-dts141zj-18v-li-ion-lxt-brushless-cordless-impact-driver-bare/6268P?tc=ET2&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20155423388&gbraid=0AAAAAD8IdPwxO053YvSbCmMepG6Gskz9x&gclid=CjwKCAiAkbbMBhB2EiwANbxtbR0UzbcX7Wb8GD5fDq5UUimYWayWY13Gp7PDLLi6ogS2m9WmHNFGZxoCDTQQAvD_BwE