Nickfromwales

Indeed. Last MBC project, where space was tight, I took the 110mm and converted it to 2x 50mm where it was guaranteed to be dry / just a vent only, and then took the 2x 50’s to the attic space and fitted 2x 50mm AAV’s up there (so they could be accessible). Done this a load of times and it works a treat, including going to 4x 32mm and back to 110mm with an “elephant foot” fitting upside down in the attic / service space, so I could use a 110mm AAV. Also have used 225x25mm ducting to take a vent up within a service batten void (another MBC build) with only 35mm to plant with.

Now I’m the complete opposite. Yes to putting something on the threads, but I always clean the mating faces and that allows the rubber to have friction. This otherwise, in the hands of someone not doing this day in day out, can lead to the rubber just being displaced and ending up in the centre of the fitting doing feck all. Threads yes, mating faces clean and dry for me.

1000%

Take that with a big pinch of salt. Consider what that document is actually telling you, which is that if you stay inside for “a few” days a year, you’ll be clinging to life (not just a little uncomfortable). I had the same argument (robust discussion) with a PH certified architectural practice, and beat the lead architect by 1%. PHPP just focuses on the building, and nigh-on ignores the poor buggers locked inside. This particular client then abandoned the £1k they’d invested in the architects recommended M&E designer and went with me, with said architects blessing. When I finished picking apart their proposal, the chap simply said “if all else fails, then you can just fit 2x AC units and that’ll fix any issues” ffs. The list of faux pas was long. They’re no longer the clients architect…as they politely disengaged soon after, with a boatload of the clients money gone forever. Unfortunately, most folk simply don’t know what lays ahead, but it is very difficult to convey this to someone such as myself, who’s coming from fossil fuel heating in a poor performing current residence, as to the new and different way in which they will find themselves then living. Oh, what a difference there is! Like night and day different. Consider how horrible a summer is in your (and my) current home, and then multiply it x3.

The spade is for me to dig my own hole, if the house floods when he pulls the pump out

Apologies, it’s late. I don’t buy cheap, so would go towards recommendations from colleagues who install this stuff on a day to day basis. If it’s one summer room or garden office, I’d recommend a cheap and cheerful, best-of-the-worst Chinese offering. For one current client (>£1.5m) I would only recommend going with one of the big hitters, LG / Samsung / Daikin / Fujitsu / Panasonic etc. This is because of after sales support, parts procurement, more robust installer network / longevity and quality of the kit and so on. To be less evasive, I look at kit to suit a remit, and as I don’t directly install domestic AC I don’t have a go-to manufacturer, specifically, as a blanket solution. I do, however, have some excellent strategic partners who I reach out to in my hour(s) of need. Ive lost count of how many times I’ve recommended a particular piece of equipment or a manufacturer, and then during the construction phase I’ve said that “we’re not going with that any more, and here’s why!”. I maintain, the shoe must fit, so each client gets a few offerings laid out in front of them (“bronze, silver, gold”), and the pros cons and caveats explained comprehensively for each option, and then they are in a position to be left alone to make their own, informed decision based on the information that I’ve gathered and shared.

The correct one for the particular instance, of course! I don’t copy / cut / paste, so each job starts on a clean bit of A4. Not lost a patient yet.

Exactly what I’m doing for 2 current new build clients. The more I look into it, after a bit over 10 years focussing my interests in the “PH” arena, the more and more this makes absolutely perfect sense.

@jfb Get your wellies ready son, we’re going in…..

Not the stems, just the pump nuts. Also, brass doesn’t rust so it’s the pump that’s corroding not the valves. Very likely the original pump has those nasty rigid washers, not the modern, more compliant rubber ones. Dog. Bone. 🤣

@NCXo82ike Have you not thermally decoupled the steel from the concrete? I use different products to achieve this, with Bosig Phonotherm on the most recent clients project. If the steels are already in, then defo look at a spray foam, but box the areas you wish to insulate, using release agent, and fill the voids. Then remove the boxing in to make way for bonding on Marmox boards to then accept plaster skim coat + paint.

Likewise, but these aren’t original-looking, old ass valves in the op. You know I’m like a dog with a bone so this one’s worth a bit of (maybe mis) adventure afaic. “What if they work?” 👀

If it helps, the SVP can be reduced to 3” after the last WC is picked up. It’s only carrying air at that stage so capacity is no longer a factor. You can still T in a sink / bath / shower etc to the reduced SVP, it’s just solids that aren’t ideal at the smaller diameter. You can actually have a single WC feed into 3” pipe, but nobody does it.

Defo.

Yes, but what exactly is the point in fitting pump isolation valves, if you change them every time you change the pump? May as well just hard plumb the pumps at that stage. Worth seeing if they hold as it's a basement or summat by the look of it, so a few drops of water ain't gonna hurt, but the changeover will be a 30 min job.

With DPM and PIR over it, any issues will stay subterranean for sure. Full steam ahead!

Not the kind of thing you want falling off

Also didn’t help that the French chap who supported, pissed of back to the land of the baguette with the female connectors……after showing me and saying to keep them safe…..after supposedly leaving them for me to do the final hookup. lol.

Sorry, we seem to have missed this. It’s the original slab you’ve levelled?

Should be plenty beefy enough. Just need to have these in reasonably high frequency if the glass is to be leant against / accident / misadventure etc.

I fixed the little windmill on to a patio slab, on a previous clients job, and set it down onto a section of flat roof where it was out of sight. Wont you lose the warranty without it installed? Even if it’s disconnected. Agree, there’s not much room with the Somfy switches, and making off the 0.75mm2 5-core was a git. 1.5mm2 is way overkill, as that’ll take 18amps. 3a or 5a fuse on these from memory, so 0.75mm2 is ample.

Defo need a water store on site there?! Always good to explore if a mist system will be permissible, as these use next to bugger all water and don’t need a huge supply. Distribution pipework is just like a beefy (braided) garden hose, so is a doddle to get 1st fixed. Current client is 200m to the road.

Cool. Just better to not void the warranty of your new equipment, so see if they have a product to give you.

Yes, got that, thanks. I meant that the spark wired to humidistat to be on 24/7, so is likely to just be on the loop in and not connected to the lights. This means the culprit seems to be the fan. I'd contact the manufacturer and ask if they can provide a snubber and give details of where it should be connected to rid you of the issue. At least this should discount the dimmer / light switching.

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