Nickfromwales

Walk into most plumbers merchants with room sizes and window / doors / ceiling heights etc and tell them you need a quote for the whole house for new radiators. They'll size each room for you there and then in most instances, and be insistent on them doing it at the counter so you can make notes ( just tell them some rooms need ornate radiators and waste some time flicking through catalogues asking would that rad be ok for this room etc whilst you make notes ).

Hi frank. Out of curiosity, what did you build with and to what standard? Timber frame / ICF / brick and block etc? Please feel free to contribute wherever you are able to

There are strong arguments for remaining on / getting grid gas to but it needs a ‘bit’ more thought than……

Search this forum for info on ASHP's, there's absolutely loads to read What is your EPC rating? How much insulation? Airtightness result? MVHR? There is a shedload of info required before anyone is able to give you useful advice. Input please !

Ok. That’s fine. Can you just end this by fitting a 110mm vertical stack to replace the rising 50mm? Is the 50mm currently being hidden in boxing in which you’d like to keep at a reduced profile?

PEV is another wholly unnecessary item to fail at some stageIt will also need removing and become redundant if you get a combi A good quality thermostatic shower will run reliably at low flow. Run the pipe to the tank.

2 minutes a day, = 14 minutes a week. 14 minutes = average time to enjoy a pint. So, to go with an upstand tray I would lose out on 52 pints a year. F**K that.

Just seal a regular one properly? I only fit upstand trays in student / rentals. I cannot stand the accumulation of crap that gets between the upstand and the shower screen / door. Pita to clean.

Only if the footer is doubled up and you can get mechanical fixings through the moisture boards. Never have the bottom of the boards where they are not against the full run of horizontal timber work EVER. I never butt the tray to the studs, I always drop the MR plasterboard / other to the floor and then the tray goes up against that sealed and bonded accordingly. Oh, and reconsider green tiles lol. They’re a bold choice

Side with the manufacturer over the architect!! 100mm is much better. How much area? What costs uplift are we looking at to add the 30mm?

I’ve done a good few pool / hot tub surrounding areas with tiles, and always over a decent ( 80-100mm minimum ) concrete slab. Never had any comebacks. The preparation must be right before tiling, or the tiles are doomed, as if the slab cracks so will the tiles. “Excessive” may be some people’s wording, but skimp there and reap the rewards! Costs a lot more to do it twice I’d put mesh in if it were mine as it’s cheap and makes concrete work ridiculously robust. IMO the Ditra would cause more issues than it’s supposed to solve, as there are more cavities to fill or for water to the bury into and freeze, but it would give some protection against tiles cracking on a regular screed / thinner concrete base. As in all things, if you’ve a good trade on site the job is more likely to succeed and they can mitigate by making sure the perimeter has a continuous run of adhesive to prevent water getting in.

Use a dry concrete mix then with 6mm aggregate instead of screed.

How do you loosen a unit of energy? That'll teach you to pick me up when I'm head-fried and put the wrong kWh into a kW sentence

Go for tank fed, then, if you DO upgrade in many moons time, you just connect that to the cold feed from the tank and you get mains pressure cold to match the new mains pressure hot. Then you can just buy any good quality thermostatic mixer valve now and it will accept both gravity now, and mains later

Nobody is saying how thick the screeds are! ?

Run 15mm radial pipes back to a single manifold at the cylinder. Manage one lot of manifold related losses not 3 Your option would also have a huge detrimental effect on the delivery time to basins / sinks etc if the HRC was off / outside a timed event due to the huge amount of 22mm pipe aka dead legs. You only need the HRC to service high frequency low volume / flow rate outlets such as modern basin and sink taps. IMO just waiting 20 seconds or so for a bath or shower to get to temp is of little concern vs having to keep those runs warm too just in case someone wishes to bathe.

https://www.installershub.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Telford-Cylinder-Installation-Guide.pdf If the pump is used to ‘stir’ the tank then possibly yes, but in regular service I would upsize by at least 50L to mitigate. For the last one I did I assumed 180L would suffice but I fitted a 250L, but that was also driven by the PV array that was south facing and so gave them some extra room to absorb the excess via the diversion controller. I treat each instance as unique and size to the application / circumstances, but with a minimum threshold that the dwelling requires to get through a 24hr period.

I'd have run the group up the st void not the second Simple solution. Just omit the pug mix along that run and choose insulation in there instead.

Ermmmm, no it won't. Explain?

If it's like the M25 ( big manifold ) I insulate each of the flows for the 1st 2m from the manifold, further insulated if the furthest loops are a long way away eg so as to preserve the heat for the zone it is meant to service. Current job I'm on is a big install, with 2 manifolds servicing the same single ground floor, and I've allowed to install around 60m of insulation to keep things in check. All depends if it's a screed or a slab, as with a slab it matters far less. If the thickness of the screed is not great then insulation may compromise the integrity of the screed so needs scrutinising.

Hi. Are you referring to the downpipe we can see in the image? If you want to connect underground, typically this would not be advised. Instead you'd cut into and branch off from the underground 110mm pipe and extend it to another gulley pot and terminate the rainwater downpipe into / above that. You shouldn't take a downpipe into the ground as the pipe is not rated for burial as it is quite brittle for one, but just not allowed ( for that reason ) for another.

At 10m distance I would go for 32mm, but ideally you should short-list a few ASHP's and cross refence this against their installation instructions / criteria.

First it's not "free", it is at the expense of the cells in the batteries vs how 'hard' you cycle the battery system to get your desired "pound of flesh". Hammer the batteries and you may get as little as 8 years useful life vs the assumed 10+ years. Manufacturers will offer warranties, choose wisely, and read the small print ( especially if choosing a Powerwall, as it's a huge battery for a regular domestic install with not huge amounts of solar revenue ). Next is your perception of how quickly you can suck the power out of your intended battery. That analogy is thus; take a full pint glass and chug it down as fast as you can. Now, add a battery inverter ( in this case a drinking straw ) and now you'll take a heck of a lot longer to empty the same glass. So, if cooking, and the cooker ( and hob ) takes say 10kW combined, then at any one time the battery system is likely to give 3.6 to 5.0 kWh of energy throughput at any one given time, ergo cooking will pull 5 from the grid and 5 from the battery. Maintaining a healthy state of charge in a battery all winter ( an A/C coupled battery will be like having a baby in the house, and will feed on demand from grid electricity if it has not had it's 'fill' off 'free' PV that day ) will cost you. It's only the Solarwatt D/C batteries that are warrantied to hibernate for ( IIRC ) up to 3 months of the year, whereas A/C systems will need constant connection to the grid to keep themselves in check. You can strategize that off E7/E10 etc but burning through a battery system to harvest cheap electricity to consume at a later time is not cost effective in the current stated lifespan of a domestic battery. Then factor in its disposal when it finally snuffs it.

We've done 5 - 8kWp installs on single phase by utilising an export limitation device. DNO's were happy with that. Some did, and some did not want to come and witness them in 'person'.

Even worse an economical decision because of the duress you have to put the ASHP under to produce high temps for DHW, and the huge costs in replacing the ASHP vs a boiler. 100% wrong train of thought here Excess electricity into the immersion ONLY. Winter time, absolutely forget the PV adding to the ASHP running costs ( for heating ) as the PV will be at 25% or much less, or zero. The base loads for the house will consume everything you produce in the winter time so there will be extremely little or no excess to have to divert.