Nickfromwales

Use adhesive for all layers above the OSB. The cement board should be set into adhesive and tapped down to the desired height, making it level and flat. The tray can then be bonded down as per the MI’s. If using tile adhesive to bed the tray, use some of the mix to decontaminate the underside of the tray by scouring it with the mix on a cotton cloth.

Indeed. Especially on a new build where you may want to progressively make rooms live as the project moves forward. Saves filling up and draining down repeatedly, plus the radial arrangement gives very good flow to multiple outlets eg 2 showers running simultaneously.

Yup. Insulate after a week of everything being pressurised, as a drip / dribble will not show so easily otherwise. You cannot use these isolators as attenuators, as I’ve found previously that they are quite noisy when the flow is ‘strangled’, plus the results were very unreliable in practice. Deffo use inline flow restrictors at the appliance. For the basins, 10mm pipe seems to give just the right amount of flow. Buy one and hook it up and see if that works for you, but I never use them for flow attenuation, personally, as clients like things to be as quiet as possible.

I’d say that you couldn’t. Only speaking from direct experience in doing exactly this on a live project. If you are geared up to do this for a living, then you’ll understand the process and will have bought tools, at cost, learned a routine and have this perfected. Build hub is populated with people doing this for the first time, sometimes the only time, and they will have little or none of the knowledge or shills of professionals who do this daily, therefore the information on here needs to be balanced accordingly. You have an impressive work rate for sure. My previous post stands.

Your sparky should be doing it

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TLPT205.html?source=adwords&ad_position=&ad_id=415703895078&placement=&kw=&network=u&matchtype=&ad_type=&product_id=TLPT205&product_partition_id=934892185560&campaign=shopping_cable_accessories&version=finalurl_v3&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1ZeUBhDyARIsAOzAqQKVL0F0ZWLlyZSELKTEYsOT3B2ymK5KsHlTxsv5J3bMnLUaDiY6MpUaAuYGEALw_wcB

All 100% correct. Fail to prepare, prepare to fail. The screed is a feathering compound which rids the floors of all imperfections, without it you will see every divot made by the laitance-removal machine head. The ply could be thicker TBH, but that will also need the joints and screw holes filled, feathered and sanded. Sounds like you have the right guys for the job.

You fail to mention the cost of labour and the god almighty mess associated with cutting the EPS to then fit all the conduit. Cost of battens to be able to affix on 3/4/600 oc with absolute minimum wastage of PB. The “solid feel” would only be where you foam, so to get that you’re saying to foam all of the area of each PB?!? Far more expensive and totally impractical / unnecessary imho. PB which is in TF dwellings sails across joists at 400 / 600 oc and PB over dot n dab does the same, albeit it feels more solid than TF as D&D is typically applied over a masonry structure. PB “sailed” over EPS and foamed where it misses the spines will also need bracing whilst the foam cures, so more labour etc. Will deffo work out to be a complete and total PITA of a job, especially when working up at ceiling height, or higher. Sorry! 👎

Also, some TRV’s have a very short / shallow depth for receiving pipe vs the lock shields. Check that detail!

What about sticking with your original and “moving swiftly on” ? That’s a plenty good enough detail imho. I would probably have gone a-la MBC’s higher performing spec of rock wool in the outer, and PIR inner for bridging but that uses a deeper frame iirc to get more wool in. Work out what will be the net physical results from all the options / effort and how it will make a difference to your life The only main Achilles heel with all PIR only structures is that they’re quite dire in terms of acoustic attenuation. You can rid yourself of some of that by using 15mm SB PB on the exterior walls. After that, I’d go and start choosing paint and tiles

Ah. Ok. That makes way more sense now. Thanks.

Fitting 2x icon in mine shortly. Next to no throughput / backdraft / ventilation heat loss with these. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ADICON15ECO.html?source=adwords&ad_position=&ad_id=415703895099&placement=&kw=&network=u&matchtype=&ad_type=&product_id=ADICON15ECO&product_partition_id=940253955038&campaign=shopping_excluded&version=finalurl_v3&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6PaI5P7q9wIVlJftCh3esgHUEAQYASABEgLh9vD_BwE

From the plumbers PoV it hasn’t been paid once Has he said he will accept the £1500 and walk away? Tis crap, oh well.

Great detail, but the con is that all of the electrics would need to be run in conduit due to the insulation filling what was the service cavity. Or the circuits downgraded / cables upsized.

No probs. You can 16x15mm fittings in straight or angled, and I used to run 16mm under the floors, then have a compression 16x15 elbow, and bring 15mm copper up to a 15mm rad valve. I do not like to see pushfit pipe, but MLC is much hardier, so it’s fine for this instance, and then just down to personal preference.

DPC under sole plates is a standard detail, inclusive of where there is an underlaying DPM. On an MBC TF project atm and I have observed the integrity of them wherever I have made ‘tweaks’ to the room layouts / stud wall locations. Penetrating the DPC where you drill through for fixings will have zero detriment. Relax

You cannot interfere with the pipe in any way, shape or form. So the answer to that is “NO” As per the link in that comment; https://www.underfloorstore.co.uk/product/uponor-compression-adapter-mlc-uk-16-15mmft

Whack in some generic black 63mm duct. I f they query it, I’ll buy the drinks.

Have you looked further upstream for a communal stopcock? I linked one of these from eBay, and it did not appear to have any kind of isolation. Been plumbing for nearly 3 decades and I have never encountered one of these tbh.

OK, you got me I should have said rain / weather proof. I’ll get my coat.

I kind of feel for the plumber, as the 1st fix is where all the assets, head work and material costs tend to lay. He should have approached you to discuss the ongoing engagement, but if the builder gave him nothing and he’s entirely out of pocket then that sucks. I had one guy working for me who had all his tools stolen. I felt compelled to help him out and he stayed on to work for the company for some time, with a great relationship and a sense mutually of, what sometimes, is the right thing to do. Difficult for everyone. Has the plumber pursued this chap independently ?

100%?

😳. Ok. Needs something sorting, so you may have to rebate the external EPS. Air is an insulator so it’s not going to sink the ship.

Maybe “bell” out the first few courses to give a faux cavity, then rerun in at 45o to the residual depth of just the rain screen?

Motorised Velux / roof lights with automation are a great and cheap option for purge, or for overheat pre-mitigation. I would deffo fit post heating / cooling in anything remotely well built. My house is shart, and already beginning to become uncomfortable. Air con going in this year ( burning off excess PV ). The thermal time constant plus the heat energy captive in the interior materials / inner fabric will allow a long swing from temp A to temp B, but probably too long for the upstairs rooms with adverse North > South solar inertia. Depends a lot on glazing as well. Solar reflective coatings work bloody well, so consider that for your strategies.