Nickfromwales

Get the seller to pay for a water supply, howsoever achieved, as this obviously needs doing by somebody at some stage. If I was selling I’d do one or the other and say “serviced dwelling” and then await a quicker simpler sale with the costs recovered therein. Kick in the nuts is, if you get the supply in, first, then you may need to relocate the equipment later. Allow for that consideration in your factoring

OK, the DAB unit you linked is simply a pump that sucks water out of a A>B break tank ( a barrel basically ). Barrel runs dry, outlets 100% cease to flow. Major issue. Cold mains fills the tank via a float valve, so the same way water refills your WC, and the only water you can get is what is stored in the unit and then that's it.....zero ( until the very slow fill rate of the float valve refills the unit to the point where there is a useful amount of water back inside it so prob about 15-20 mins to recharge before the unit restores 'power' after depletion. Of course, you would train yourself to not get to that point eg understanding these restrictions and attenuating life accordingly, as you'd realise that still being covered in Timotei with not even a dribble coming out of the shower head is less than great...........let alone the subsequent 5 / 10 mins wait, or more, stood there in your birthday suit waiting for the magic to happen. That scenario is caused by that fact that the cold mains is actually then disconnected from your house plumbing and you are solely reliant on the rate that the float valve can refill that tank, the bigger system = longer wait for this "recovery". No ta. With a 'passive' cold mains accumulator arrangement you always remain connected to the cold mains, regardless of however crap it may be, so even after the water stops blasting out you can still wash away the Timotei If you are a complete and total creature of habit the pumped systems can work, and for some obviously they do, but given you have to pay a lot more for the pumped system, plus you have to segregate the household plumbing to suit, ( WC's, outside taps, appliances etc should be teed directly off the mains with a system that can 'run dry' plus you want to reserve the stored water for bathing only, ideally ), then a retro-fit is a logistical nightmare. Either that, or you have to size the pump / tank system to deal with everything wet plumbed being connected to it, and completely reliant on it. No ta. I fitted 2x 180L acc's into a house situated deep into the greenbelt, where you could literally pee faster than the water came out of the hot taps, and again the results were staggeringly good. I swapped out their UVC to a Vaillant 937 hi-flow combi, and they were over the moon with it. Even when the acc's ran very low, they could still realise that was going downhill and finish up in the shower sharpish, whereas with the pumped systems the water just completely stops and you're done. Some pumped systems feature a small acc so have a little bit of a warning but not much, and they are of course still reliant on the float valve fill rate which ( if this is a dwelling with crap cold mains flow, hence the system needed fitting to resolve that issue ) that can be some time indeed. On another 6 bed dwelling, with 3 bathrooms ( 2 large electric showers and 1 thermostatic mixer, plus 1 bath ) utility, kitchen etc plus cloak WC, I fitted a 300L acc to the cold mains ( segregation observed ) and demonstrated to the client how effective the system was. They reported never being able to turn the 10.5kW electric shower up to the max setting due to it being so massively reliant on a strong, maintained cold feed, so they often used that on setting 1 out of 3. They said there was never a day when they cold use the two electric showers simultaneously. For my demonstration, I allowed the acc to charge overnight and then walked the customers through the house with both of the electric showers running on max settings, then I flushed each WC in each of the bathrooms, electric showers remained 100% unaffected, then I left those running and we went to the master bathroom where I removed the 3rd electric shower and converted it to a wet unit. THat was also running throughout my demonstration. They were completely gobsmacked. "Result!" THEN......drumroll please.......I left all that running, time elapsed was about 3 -4 mins at this time from starting the demo, showed them the kitchen taps worked full blast also, then the utility, and then showed them that the cold mains stopcock was shut OFF during the demo We got to nearly 7-8 mins before the acc started to give up. Even with the 2 electric showers then shutting down, the mixer shower still gave hot water output sufficient to get the job done. The DHW device was a thermal store. Consultation, specification and correct design ans execution guarantee results, simples ?

Apparently, he can burp the alphabet....... I tried to book him for my daughters 13th, but his mum said he wasn't allowed out.

Yup. The mains peaks out at around 04:00 and the use of a non return valve captures the available potential, usually north of 2.5bar sometimes as high as 4bar and that’s sat there ready to utilise for the days needs. What matters, is how much of it you stored.

Accumulator vessel is undersized. A pre-charge of 1.5bar vs 6bar cutoff will see the diaphragm being exercised a heck of a lot further than I would ever specify in a design for any of my clients installations tbh. The upshot of this is a lot more % of stored pressurised water vs redundant air space in the accumulator, but it will massively shorten the lifespan of the diagram ( aka bladder ) too. I never fit less than 300L in a family home with a poor cold mains, and set it to accept 50-60% water ( max ) to give the vessel / bladder as long a life as possible. The reason you run out of water so quickly and the pump starts up again under duress is down to incorrect specification alone. I would add at least another 1x accumulator of Dili mar or slightly bigger size to improve things. The pump also has a limited lifespan and this cycling will ultimately see that needing changing sooner too. FWiW I have never fitted a charge pump to a mains, even ones where I can p**s quicker than the water mains, instead just fitting much bigger acc’s and leaving them to be pressurised off the static head of the cold mains instead. Works extremely well. In my experience of over 2 decades of installing these devices on multi-occupant dwellings with poor to very poor cold mains, I have not once fitted a pump to the cold mains, instead it’s just been down to specifying the correct size acc’s and the results have been excellent.

One for your structural engineer

Completely agree. We threatened you from afar to get rid of the piss-coloured grout, and nothing. But then when we came around mob-handed to show you we were serious….bingo! Glad this shambles got stopped now before it got any further. Time to say “Adios” to Roy and Woody. God help their next victims……

I've bought 2 sets, maybe I will buy another two. The cheapest I could find a 4-pack of 5.0's was £260-£270, so for £300 I couldn't say no. I now have 2x drills, 2x chargers, and 2 x cases up for grabs if anyone wants them? I'll put them up on Market Place here over the weekend, or PM me with an offer anybody I already have the heavy duty brushless drills / impacts, plus an identical brushed drill as a backup, so these are completely superfluous to my requirements and need new homes. The warranty can be claimed by the new owners for 3 years trouble free motoring. I will register the batteries only in my name.

@Wilko58 Sorry to be asking this a bit late on, but have you proved the 110mm AAV is functioning properly / at all? Does the 50mm tee in under the 1st floor boards, or does it tee in at ground floor level?

That’s what I suggested, as they cannot be boxed in. They need accessibility.

Another for Brink here. I fit nothing but Brink ( via CVC Direct ) and always excellent results from both the units and CVC’s client / consumer support. ??

A typo one lol.

Ideally the AAV should be above the trap height of the basin. Can you extend that 50mm pipe up alongside the SVP and terminate in the attic?

?‍? Ermmmm……..

Just making sure you don’t fry the ones you love the most…….Zippy, Bungle and George. ?

It will be, by the fact that the incoming live goes to the terminal C ( common ) and the switch wires to L1 / L2 etc. Now, more importantly, let’s have that chat about colourblind people DIY’ing their own electrical work……… ? lol. My dads engineer was too, and had to keep coming back and forth the office with short off cuts from the vending machine wiring looms asking which colours were which

Yup.

That explains the grout then !

They’re both live cables ya nugget

They’d likely just fail it possibly with a recommendation to come back less the offending item(s), which would be free as you get 2 ‘hits’, iirc, before having to pay to submit again. If the amendments are not non-material and you have to come back with a full resubmission then you may have to pay the fees again. Panicking too soon isn’t healthy, just wait and see what they come back with.

I assume this is a typical ‘boat’ hot water system, but if there is no vent then I wonder how expansion / contraction, when the water heats up and cools down, is overcome? What temperature does the water get to?

Don’t fit usb sockets though, as that can cause issues when doing insulation resistance and other ‘dry’ tests

Ask your sparky first. A lot will get the hump, quite rightly so as well, if you start cutting and stripping their cables without prior ‘permission’. They are damn well entitled too!! Insurance, competent scheme costs, all the gear to keep and update / recalibrate, running a van, paying your taxes, vehicle costs and more. Why would they not charge you when it’s you that asks them to come to do work ?

One of these LINK directly onto the top, PTFE’d on, and then take the flexible grey ( poly or Hep2o by the looks ) further away, or possibly replace the garden hose completely?!?