Nickfromwales

CT1 Multi-solve is very good for this. Yes to removing the majority with mechanical methods ( and patience ) but the Multi-solve chemically breaks remnants of silicone down and is neutral / non-aggressive, so will not tarnish most common adjoining materials.

What are the definitions of primary and secondary?

Thanks for this. A consideration for one new client so was going to be asking about this in due course. No time like the present lol. So, my question is around the risk from fire / flames going back down the air intake? Are there regs for this? Is it even a problem / consideration? If the air intake is this piddly flexi hose, how is it that this can be connected directly to the WBS and there not be a certain length of more robust flue-like pipe connected immediately? All thoughts / wisdom welcome. For my client it will be a double-sided appliance, shared between two rooms, so assume a bottom connection vs rear entry. Better maybe?

800mm in front of the unit. All other clearances are as per MI’s eg 300mm rear for fresh energy-rich air to get to the unit without issue. This particular one will have 15x200mm tanalised planks mounted vertically at 30 degrees off perpendicular, set out around 150-200mm apart. Basically a balustrade standing 1200mm high, encompassing the HP’s all 3 sides round, and set out so when viewed from the most common angle all (3) heat pumps cannot be seen, ( unless you stand more-or-less in front of them ). As far as what the HP ‘sees’ there is almost zero resistance or impact of airflow as the ‘blades’ of the timber ‘baffles’ are near perpendicular to the direction of airflow. I would not do the hit n miss ‘fence’ as the timbers will offer direct resistance and a lot of that air will get buffered back causing noise and reducing flow / affect performance of thr HP.

Looks to be just coming from the fitting, not the ‘loop’ ( pipe ). Has anyone tried simply pinching ( gently tightening ) the nut on the fitting(s) ?

Hi. Well your engineer is starting the journey on the right foot(ing) there +1 for twin-wall timber frame. A large number of my clients have built with this system and I am seriously impressed with the performance, AND how quiet the house is, eg almost void of external influences. I would like to see anyone blindfolded who could tell me they were in a brick & block ( masonry ) / ICF / Twin-walled TF built dwelling as the twin-wall system is very very solid indeed. I recommend to all my clients that they install the posi-joists at 400mm centres and not at 600mm as per most knee-jerk designers like to install at. Even with BRegs levels of allowed deflection, 600mm centres is still too "bouncy" IMHO.

For air to be extracted, the equal amount of infiltration must be allowed ( inputted ). Either from your house being a colander like mine, or through strategically positioned trickle vents ( eg in each room ).

Having just installed one for a client, I can confirm that they are VERY quiet indeed. When commissioning it I was getting frustrated with the controller as I couldn't get the thing to kick into life. Stuck my head out the front door, nothing, back and forth and so on for a good couple of hours. Then the client said "but Nick, the pipes are all hot?" I walked up to it and was met with a breeze of Baltic cold air coming from the fan, and a very faint whirr. It was indeed up and running, and had been for some time, I just genuinely couldn't hear it running from the front door. Unit was the opposite corner of the driveway at the front of the property. Client and neighbour able to have a polite conversation whilst it was running under their noses, with no mention of nuisance noise from the neighbour. Design and foresight is paramount to success here, but it would be fair to say that was in a 'low energy-highly insulated' dwelling vs what we have here. That said, it would be realistic to assume any heat pump for this ( @gdal's ) application would not be anywhere near as quiet when the depths of winter descend, so some serious thought needs to go into this decision for sure. For my current clients I have designed a "fence" which is a) a visual barrier, and b) an effective acoustic baffle, plus that promotes near-free airflow ( my design has been accepted by the manufacturer so the warranty is still good, even though it is closer to the front of the HP than the MI's would suggest is permissible ) so indeed this is a good option to 'direct' any identified nuisance sound to where it is not going to be problematic. For another, I have suggested a galv 'cage' with planters at the base, which will then become a living acoustic barrier, spaced accordingly so it can be maintained from both sides for trimming. The noisy ones have just been installed in ignorance AFAIC, and some just shouldn't have been an option at all, eg as they were simply unsuitable due to the ( expected ) unacceptable levels of noise pollution. This isn't just a client consideration, as most do not want to piss their neighbours off either. Measure twice......

Get a much smaller oil tank and a hybrid ASHP Best of both worlds. Grant Vortexair

Cleaning and preparation is the key to success. YouTube should show a few examples.

You cant, otherwise your house will turn into one of dampness, stank and mould

Put permanently-open trickle vents in the windows. Leave a letter with the tenant stating they must not be found to be closed off / blocked.

With Persimmon, you do NOT have to wait years to discover how big a sack-o-shit the house you've just bought actually is. My mate paid £300k for a 5 bed PPoS ( persimmon pile of shit ) and asked me to tile the entire ground flor for him, he was a chippy. I walked around and got to the back garden which was a swamp with some grotty soil and bricks etc mixed in. I asked why it looked like a derelict allotment and he said "turf is an optional extra.....". I chuckled and got my gear out. I went to mix up and no outside tap. I asked where it was so I could get some water....."that's an optional extra too, can you fit one for me and use that please?......." I then ran my laser throughout. The liquid screed had not been 'scrubbed' to remove the laitence, the floor in the kitchen was 13mm off from centre one way ( from the big nasty expansion joint disc'd into the floor ) and 9mm the other way ( this was the kitchen and about 5.5m wide!!!!! ). In comes the screed layers to put it right with self levelling compound, lots of it too......( mates mate did it, and NOT paid for by Persimmon btw!!! ). I get on and get done, and about halfway through a sales rep walks past and asks why I'm using the outside tap of the house next door ( that has not yet sold ). I said I just needed water as the house I was working on did not have one. She shot off, got her keys, let herself into the house next door and shut off the stopcock. I shit you not. My mate told me that the house had not sold, so each week something on the 'optional extras' list got added by Persimmon to try to make it sell. It had turf ( and an outside tap lol ). FFS. When he was bullied into giving the deposit with no notice, he was on holiday. He tried to pay over the phone / BACS etc but they told him he had to sign for the property or risk losing it. He flew home, minus his family, and asked to go into the house. The sales lady was hesitant and he had to insist. She let him in and to his horror the kitchen was in bits and loads of it missing AFTER he had paid for extra units, particular appliances etc to get their own 'tailored kitchen' installed ( which had been done and was finished ). Turns out the house directly opposite had sold, the people wouldn't close the deal if they couldn't move in by a certain date, so Persimmon raped my mates house as a donor so thy could complete the other house. Bathrooms had tiles just where water would splash, and paint everywhere else. The standard of the bathrooms was horrific. Tiles cut past where the tiler should have stopped the cut, grouted to hide it. Trims cut horridly badly, the list just went on, and on, and on, and on etc etc etc. Total and utter bell-ends, paying bad trades next to nothing to turn out sub-standard, over-priced heaps of crap. Stay well clear.

This is going to be a loooooooong night. Time for another beer

Linear wetroom tray Look at the floor, and then the grout line centre of the drain. Grout lines are rising on both axis, so he's done 1000% what I would have done. When grouted there would be very little visual reference to say that back wall was 'off-set'. Job is Tres Bien. Customer is being a dick.

A lack of abundance of any particular trade does not endorse just grabbing the nearest one and 'promoting him'. Some people know just enough to be dangerous, choose well.

It depends on the size of the array and the placement of the panels. You really need to get some advice from whomever would be your preferred downstream installer. Remember you’ll need MCS for selling exported energy. If its an array with all the panels together on a single elevation then you could be a single ‘string’ ( pair of cables ) but if east / west split then you’d be dual string and need 2 pairs. You’ll also need to allow enough coiled up cable to be able to reach the furthest panel from where you’ve left the cables. It would be a proper piss-you-off to find you’ve done the prep incorrectly Go ask some questions, and offer to pay that person for their professional time eg tell them you’re expecting a service from them vs a “can you take a quick look”.

If you get the likes of @nod and his gang on the case, it'll be cost effective and done el-rapido with great results. You need to get quotes, as we cannot tell you what your particular home will cost to do. Maybe folk here can post up rates for walls & ceilings ( p/m2 ) to give you a yardstick. Most good spreads will just do you a day rate, and should get 3 sets on a day, 2 if the going is rough and they have to dub out ( because the boarding is crap ). Find some recommendations, get some quotes, come back with any questions

Yes, lol. One for the mantelpiece .

Most likely due to lack of airflow, not 'ingress'. Mould starts when the walls stay damp because the air stagnates. My mate rang me about his HMO and was about to pay some "damp specialists" to resolve. I told him to fit an open trickle vent and ask the room tenant if they dry their clothes in the room. He bought a communal tumble drier and fitted the vent. Problem solved. I also told him to get furniture a little way off the walls, as a full height wardrobe up tight to the wall is a damp ( humidity and stagnated air ) trap so mould will thrive there.

Do you have a link to exactly which shower it is that you have installed? Even my Chinesium one has this....

I'll put you in the 'sane' camp Welcome.

Run a 16a C form to the back of the garage / outbuilding hardwired into the house for petroL powered EPS, and just plug a second hand genny into that for the duration. Doomsday preppin’ gone mad here!!

Not seamless! A bolt on but of kit and a 5 sec delay in changeover. Robert Llewelyn is on YouTube doing a demo of his iirc. Worth a watch. Problem is, you’ll cry when you add up the supply and for Cody’s of his Tesla setup, plus the electrical work to integrate it. You’d need to live to 100 to get payback, plus if ToU tariffs evaporate it’ll be an expensive ornament.

Is this cyber bullying? Its “Mr Tubby” to you Bruce. 👌.