Nickfromwales

That's a good job tbh, so defo worth the screws in that instance. Small head screws like No.3.5's leave more coverage for the skim over the screw head so be mindful not to use pan-head etc that's all as you dont want more skim on than the depth of the lip of the fitting ( which is what you're supposed to skim to ).

£5k. Final offer.

👊

Don't make me ring your wife........

Whether SA or UVC, you defo do NOT want to be taking space heating from the point you show it entering "valve". Who's specified this? Also, having a SA means running at very high temps to get a speedy reheat of the DHW.......which PCM is the current flavour? 58?

Crack The FCUK On Simples

Sounds perfectly reasonable Just pay the man, he's got kids to feed !!! PS, as a BH Buddy favour, i'll come over and do the CAT6 for £9k, that's a saving of a thousand pounds Seriously....how do these people get any work? That's crazy money for this build....

The term is "exporting" the earth, vs "extending" it Exporting the earth is defo something a qualified spark would identify on site, and as this refers to work which would typically be notifiable the assumption would be that it is to be done by a qualified person. The distance and type of service need to be of significant interest to warrant not exporting the supplied earth from source tbh. Needs to be surveyed and understood, but if less than 15m or so from the house I doubt very much it would need the earths being made divisible etc.

Assuming just power socket(s) and lighting? If so, as per @ProDave, and just run it to a double socket, Use that double socket as a junction box, and branch off with 2.5mm2 ( regular twin and earth when inside is fine ) to a switched fused spur. Locate that where you want to be able to operate the light(s) from, and install a 3a fuse to comply. Run 3-core flex or 1.0mm2 T&E to the light fittings and job done. No need for a CU there then.

Yup. Plus they do nothing when screwed into 12mm of plasterboard. The caulk holds them rock solid, when completely dry. Screws just come out and get binned.

Plasterer skims flush to the lip, painter rollers straight over. Easy thing to get great results with.

That'll take some explaining lol 😆

Ok, just not sure laying on the PB constitutes a "safety zone". Sparky should be able to decide that. Yup, wool used to force the panels up about 20-25mm higher than top of joist should work well.

OK, thanks. Not at all ideal to be installing cables in that heated space..... Have you consulted a sparky for compliance /de-rating the services etc? As its 1st floor, just do wool tbh, as you're already within the heated envelope.

!00mm under a heated floor is barely scraping regs btw.

As per my last, I cannot work out what the current depth is between the top of the insulation and the underside of the floorboards? Only then can we advise

Yup. Doesn't look like you'd have room for another 20mm or 25mm of rigid insulation plus the wool? How much insulation is there out of curiosity?

This one shows the lights caulked, screwed and wiped. Plasterer scrim taped these before skimming, taped before on a previous job iirc but works either way tbh. Screws removed before skimming.

Have installed a lot of these for my current 2 clients builds. They look a million dollars when skimmed and painted, IMO. I use decorators caulk around the hole, then push the fitting up into the caulk, and fit with a couple of temp screws. I use baby wipes to remove almost all of the displaced caulk and lea e to dry. The screws get removed immediately before plastering. Regarding scrim, I do that every time for belt and 2 braces. Cost = next to zilch so why wouldn’t you ? I apply the scrim around the hole before the caulk and fitting of the light. The tape goes half inside the perforated skirt and half is left exposed to pick up the plaster. I used a bi metal hole saw and cut discs out of foam to use to plug the holes in the light fittings, with the lamp retaining rings still fitted eg so they didn’t go walkeis or get damage in storage.

If there’s no access from below, eg to staple the plates to the underside of the floorboards / deck, then I always recommend putting sufficient mineral wool directly under the plates to make them distended. The fact they’re left raised up by the wool means that when the deck gets screwed down, the wool compressed and maintains the contact between the plates and the deck. You’d need to spend an afternoon manually reshaping these to get the sag out of them, but no need whatsoever to discard them imho, just needs a bit of time and elbow grease. Leaving the PIR insulation where it is and fit the wool on top of it, as long as it won’t move south under compression of course.

Nah, you always stick a skinny 6 / 8mm drill bit through before coring out, through the repairable cement ( pointing ) to see if the lintel fitted was oversized. Some lintels are ‘too big’ because that was the one that was available on the day of purchase. Always mark the hole out but then, first, drill a test hole the side nearest the opening to ascertain that you’ll defo miss the end of the lintel. 2nd year apprentice stuff tbh.

Ah, OK. When screwing the plasterboards to the studwork, you should make sure there is timber, and that you screw into it, at the position that the tray will be bonded back to the plasterboard. That make sense?

Loads of vids of what to do / how to thin paint and types etc Take a huge amount of time to mask up around windows and doors etc, as cleaning off overspray will take 10x longer Short cuts always take 3x longer or more, so mask and spray in a controlled fashion for an easy life. If you don't put in the effort with masking, you'd be far better off with a roller. Follow the guidelines for cleaning and stowing the machine after each use, religiously. Your idea to use dead spaces for practice is a robust plan. If spraying in this weather it'll dry as you're putting it on, so will be a much bigger challenge to get a good result. Possibly spray early mornings only, and not after midday.

We're really not helping are we?!? LOL Apologies, I'm stuck in a hotel, arrived back late, and am now drinking to catch up ( under duress of course ).