Nickfromwales

What's on the inside wall at that point? Anyone's guess tbh.

Incoming gas is a galv pipe above ground by the looks of it, and the supply to the house looks like copper. The requisite is to have the gas earth bond within the first 600mm of the outgoing gas pipe from the meter. For aesthetics, you could put this just inside the meter box to not have it 'on display'. If you are living in the house and have damaged the earth rod, this is a matter of immediate concern and should be fixed and checked asap.

Complete and total bollocks.

No certs for water or gas!?!?! You won't get signed off until your gas install is registered online with the GSR ( Gas Safe Register ). Have you finished paying the plumber? But of less use, it appears....

I can recommend Simon Chadwick of SMC. He’s come to the rescue from a job that’s started with a window fitter on his mother’s side….. Very nice guy, and came very highly recommended via Dovista ( who own Velfac and Rational ). Give him a buzz and mention the Welshman. 07862 737026.

The grey boxes on the cylinder…..are they not immersion and cylinder stat? I’m pretty sure without that stat and a zone valve in play, you won’t get a G3 sign off for that system.

Just fit grid-tied hybrid inverters and dial them down to zero export. Declare and forget.

It’s the event ( albeit unlikely ) of equipment failure that were supposed to factor in, which is where / why these kinds of regs reside. I’d argue that you’re correct, eg if the battery charger has crocodile clips vs crimped eyelets which are bolted permanently to the batteries then it’s no worse than charging a vehicle. The fact that there’s a 13a plug on these domestic chargers with exposed metal ( male ) connections means there is absolutely zero chance of connecting to a battery snd getting 230VAC back out the other side. Would never get certified if so. Simples.

Expected, but not really an issue for those with PV, as the ‘problem’ ( sun ) creates the solution ( excess vegetation to power cooling ) so still “free” whilst the sun is in the sky?

Press a couple of buttons in installer settings for Panasonic.👌

No pressure test of incoming mania vs sum output of the control group > UVC. I always fit a secondary pressure gauge after the control group so the client can simply glance at it to confirm correct / safe function of the control group. Easier then, than checking the oil in your car. Installers taking unbalanced cold feeds to mixer taps allowing at-source incoming mains pressure to back-feed into the UVC via the hot feed. Insufficient EV capacity for larger systems and those with an HRC. EV’s not inspected regularly to recognise when one has lost its pre-charge. Same with rusting EV’s which then just pop. List goes on…..

It’s the “value” of the resistor that we need in order to ascertain its “cost”. You can, you just have to meter the heat and take A from B to discount energy spent on cooling.

If you purchase one, you can possibly read its resistive value and release the information here. Is this thing encapsulated?

Nope. Do you support ‘hero electricians’ ( people who just own tools but never served their time / pay to be registered on a competent installers scheme / pay insurance like you do ) and then don’t sign off / do undertake illegitimate ( illegal ) works? Just been around enough shabby trades / witnessedtheir ‘work’ and you soon see what a time served, registered installer / prestige company ( ones that actually give a fcuk ) puts out. You need your day rate to cover those overheads, do you not? When a company has multiple staff, admin, vehicles, business premises, storage facilities etc etc and all those associated costs, how could they ever go anywhere for the same day rate as you?! Come on……..😉. Let’s talk a bit of sense vs just jumping on a witch hunt eh? ….not the manufacturers per-se but the fact that it has to be ( for unvented ) a G3 trained and registered installer. All the failed UVC’s that I’ve been to have not ever seen a single solitary inspection / service, and the customers sit there waving their arms about and whinging whilst on the phone to the insurance company. Parked on the drive are a couple of prestige vehicles with immaculate dealership serve history . Go figure?!? I say “blame yourself”. I guess ignorance isn’t always bliss.

How many folk have ever actually had this inspected?

MCS is not about markup, it’s about responsibility / liability / guaranteeing a foundation production or more. Design software and MCS scrutinisation offers a quality assurance which you don’t get elsewhere. Why do you think only MCS accredited installations are eligible for SEG payments ?! Why do you think manufacturers offer extended warranties on their kit, some lifetime warranties, on the proviso it was installed by a competent / registered company or person and maintained annually. Markup is recovery of overheads which you should expect to pay when engaging with such companies. If you don’t want the service / backup / reliability / assurances / qualifications / experience / registration / SEG etc, just head down the pub where you’ll find a load of lesser-beings propping the bar up. “Big markup”…..Way too coarse a generalisation there sorry!!

🤔🙄

If it wasn’t optimised that was a lethal cocktail.

Can you not mount this remotely and run multiples of insulated ducts to the space it needs to service? Did this on one project where I installed 2x 92mm ducts for return air, low down at the far ends of the room, and then another 2x 92mm ducts for supply of fresh / cool air. 4 ducts at the source and then you could just use a centrifugal fan and 3 row heat cool units from ( for eg ) BPC.

East - west split for PV will be plenty useful enough, and that’s what I’m doing. My ridge runs S - N. I expect a very long solar day.

Battens and insulation on the internal faces will create the thermal break with relatively little impact and be quite effective. You could line the internal faces of the reveals with Compacfoam or Marmox to go belt n braces.

No mention of that from the OP though, which is my whole point.

Void from links ?

Even a paint brush is enough to bend and fold these fins over, they're ridiculously fragile. I will only use air now after learning this the first time I cleaned it out. The fins are literally like thick kitchen foil. I had to straighten the few I bent with a Stanley blade.

I beefed up the roof joists of mine to give a 900mm cantilevered projection to the side ( gate off pavement to access path between shed / house ) and ‘front’ and changed to clear roofing sheets, eg to allow light through but also be reasonably protected from rain. Worked a treat. Use the software to create 2 sheds and just Frankenstein the cutting list to produce what you want?