Nickfromwales

ASHP’s have been around for many decades. “Percentages” would tell even the most inept of individuals to remove their rose-tinted goggles and try actually performing the correct maths, eg so they were making a statement with 20/20 vision instead of one that would gain little or no credit. In the absence of that; Sunamps for half of one, the current offering less than 1/10 of one. Decades that is. The thing is still on trial. ASHP’s are not. UVC’s aren’t either. So :- Actual summery; Most grumbles of ASHP’s are from assholes fitting them incorrectly, or in instances that they were doomed to fail once unsuitability installed in. UVC’s, bombproof these days, it’s basically a stainless steel flask. Zero issues such as micro bore based heat exchangers…👎. Percentages? How many ASHP’s and UVC’s are currently in operation in the UK ( or the world for that matter ) ? Eh?🤔😉 How many SA’s by comparison? That equation will give readers of this forum an ACTUAL percentage to go on.

It was reference to using tape instead of traditional ‘scrim’ tape. Plaster goes over both options.

Reduced it by how much, if you don’t mind me asking?

Bonjour, as we say in Wales. Do you have a link to the item? There's a lot of other equipment needed to complete the installation, so buyer beware!!

I always did this, seemed a no brainer.

And if you ever want to change the LVT, with that down first then skirts, you have a real pig of a job on your hands downstream . And a lot of downstream trades / risk to the floor. I should have added that sorry. LVT / other floor covering ( as applicable ) into the voids where appliances go. Still pointless going under all the units and sending good money into the darkness never to be seen again. That money can go towards paying for the paint

If you make a mess of the paint spraying, you'll end up not saving anything as they ( the professional painters ) will have to rub that all back and make good. How confident ( competent ) do you feel you are with that? Painting, mist coat Kitchen goes in, less plinths and cornices LVT goes down, minimum amount only eg waste of time going under the units.

Quite low tbh, plus the cold bridging of all the joists / rafters. You can get through-wall AC units which are 'all-in-one', and may be more sympathetic to look at from the exterior / neighbours PoV etc.

If this is for space heating, forget the electric UFH as it’ll be quite crap under laminate for one, and eye-watering in terms of running costs. You’ll have to switch it on ages before going in to use the room too. Get a cheap A2A heat pump, something like THIS and it’ll give you heating in the winter PLUS cooling ( air con ) in the summer. The CoP should be around 3, so for every £1 of electric you buy, you’ll get £3 of heat energy output. It'll also be nigh-on instantaneous heating of the air, so no need for long warm-up periods before use. Electric UFH 👎. You will regret that choice I promise you. What is the level of insulation for walls, and roof? If not the heat pump, then do yourself a MASSIVE favour and fit electric convection wall heaters. You really need to be heating the air, not the floor. 11 OSB is very thin to go onto insulation btw., even with the laminate atop. . Point compression will be an issue, eg if you install furniture / floor standing racking shelving etc.

Just remember to turn the nut not the fitting, so the washer doesn't twist as you tighten

Yes, very claustrophobic at yours......... Get the correct part, you may just find it was twisted during fitting which would have been the beginning of the end for that flexi.

TBH, because it's not a Geberit, you may be better off using a far more reliable item, perhaps one of THESE. Better be safe than sorry

In your face @PeterW

God, I hate you some times Peter........

Christ, that's hard to track a part for. Porcelanosa should be able to get a direct replacement though. That's cranked both ends so you will likely need the right part. One of the reasons I stick to fitting Geberit and nothing else.

Most likely. I'd put money on it working fine with a lower input temp. NEVER joke about something as serious as plumbing.

🙄 You can double ( over ) board it. That will deffo help. Joints staggered of course. +1

Ah. OK, a flat faced washer will sort it. https://www.screwfix.com/p/arctic-products-fibre-pillar-tap-washers-2-pack/7893j

Store at 50/52oC and your troubles will fade away. 45oC is just too low, your cylinder capacity will be dire. Just read the MI's you linked. That probably refers to the max input temp that it will tolerate / blend down reliably vs the minimum required to 'make hot water'.

https://ecoenergyenvironment.com/about-us/ They've installed on a number of BH members builds. Typically installing German equipment ( Solarwatt ) but also do LG if you want silver instead of gold . Mention the forum if you make contact.

OTT indeed lol. Not ever used one myself, but I've seen those types of fittings before. I think that fitting relies on the integral part of the union being in contact with the target union, and then the pressure applied by tightening the nut creates the seal. Do you have a pic of the inside of that fitting please?

I dig out a keyhole shaped trough in the concrete and terminate with a flexible hose if it's a real difficult install. If it's more straightforward I will set the tray into its final position with packers and work out the height from the base to the top of the trap. I'll then make all the pipework up ( in the same keyhole ) dry, eg not glued, and put everything into its final position, resting the tray back over to check all is 'good'. I then lift the tray off and mark 3 or 4 lines across each junction of pipe and fitting, numbering and marking which way it top / arrow to show direction etc and disassemble. I start gluing it all together using the marks for confirmation that it's all going back in exactly as it was mocked up at the dry fit. Then I will chase a small channel out from the head of the keyhole to just outside the outer edge of the tray as a kind of funnel. If the pipework goes to an outside wall or disappears down through the slab, make sure you use a few hand fulls of dry tile adhesive powder to fill up all those gaps so the pipe is completely sealed. You'll realise why shortly..... Then mix up a wedge of rapid set flexible tile adhesive, mixed so it doesn't slump. Use that to prep / clean the underside of the tray by putting some adhesive on a cotton dishcloth so you can scour it and remove any contaminants from manufacture. Then you can set the tray down on big piers of adhesive, aiming for around 70-80% coverage is ample, staying away from the area immediately where the trap / waste will sit. Put some CT1 around the underside of the hole in the tray where the seal of the trap will make contact, not going mad with it. Once the tray has been set in place, and whilst the tile adhesive is still wet, screw the waste into the trap sealing up as the underside of the waste so you have wet CT1 from under to over. The fittings will displace what it doesn't need, but you need to be sure the rubber seal under the tray doesn't skate off centre whilst lining the waste up with the trap and screwing it in. Once tight, clean all excess CT1 away with baby wipes ( lots of them ). Check the levels one last time, and leave the tray to set for a couple of hours. Then comes the magic bit Make a continuous line of sand about 6" deep 10mm higher than finished floor level like a dam in front of / around the tray, with the end of the funnel inside the dam eg so the sand will 'belly out' at that point. You then mix some self-levelling compound and pour it SLOWLY into the 'funnel' where it then flows towards the keyhole, thus filling it with SLC like filling a mould. Eventually the SLC will fill the trough / keyhole, will rise up to finished floor level, where you can then stop mixing and pouring. Job done. That process fully encapsulates the trap and pipework so you can stand on the trap whilst showering without any risk of it pushing down / through the thin part of the tray,plus this also fills in between all of the piers of tile adhesive that you used to set the tray on. You pour the SLC until it comes up and out of the funnel, and rises about 3-4mm above FFL. That way you know the underside of the tray is full of the SLC and zero voids. Tres bien.

If you’re adding a battery inverter, A/C coupled, eg a second micro generator connected to an new circuit of the CU, then it’s notifiable. D/C systems attract one less A/C >< D/C conversion so are also around 13-15% more efficient overall. Why not just bite the bullet and go D/C ( modular / scalable ) now? Saves a mish-mash of equipment, and no permission necessary either now or later when you may sporadically add to the capacity.

D/C coupled batteries = no DNO application. A/C coupled batteries = DNO application.

All depends if that then gets you a refusal ! They may insist on export limitation on the PV inverter as a result of an over estimation on the battery capacity, so beware as that sword has two edges