Nickfromwales

That’s more for volume areas, this is more acute.

Yup. Goes off way more rigid than standard foam.

@Onoff I would stick the heads on first to get level and square, bracing with timber until foam cures. Foam ( Illbruck 330 ) for AT is ample. Cut with anything tbh, it’s easy to work with. Old blade in a battery circular saw ideal 👍

Currently in heated debate over this. What is your information source to clarify this functionality, please? Genuine question, not provocation btw!

kWhat?

Arse! Yes, 420-430mm to top of pan. My mistake, been a long week already . Seat above that, so around 460mm to top of closed seat lid.

Yup lol. The penny drop’th. 😎😁

Yup, they are a joy, aren't they?!? FYI, I don't ever fit the acoustic gaskets, as they create a friction slip. Instead, I mask around the pan, a few mm before pinching it up for the last time, and pump the gap between the pan and the wall with clear CT1. Once fully tightened, and levelled, the excess CT1 gets removed with baby wipes until it is no longer visible. 48hrs to cure, then a cosmetic seal up with white microban based silicone and job done.

Nope. They're fixed on the frames, all you get to dictate is where the top of the pan ends up. Currently fitting 5 Geberit frames all at 520-530mm off FFL aka "comfort height". I only fit Geberit as I've never had a single complaint with them. Fit and forget.

A service alteration is usually about £800 to a grand ( chop clean and connect back up ).

Jesus! Lucky escape there.

Time, effort, who to blame...... They just want zero liability or comebacks from a member of the public getting injured or killed.

Never EVER, trust old people. They have a lifetime of cons tucked up their sleeves

You can have your close-coupled WC, fear not ! What you need is a bent flexible pan connector LINK and a WC which is not fully back-to-wall ( eg there is no porcelain meeting all the rear of the wall hiding the soil connection ). The grey is a perfectly new 110mm standard PVC pipe, so no worries there. The 3.5" bit you are looking at is a standard reduced sized pan connector, just a bloody long one, a standard off-the-shelf item.

Wouldn’t it be better matched? eg similar will exchange charge at the same pace?

Use the correct corrosion proof screws for the cement board !

You can change the 11mm OSB and top the 18’s with a 6mm aqua board / cement panel. Then 5mm of tile adhesive to set the tray in nicely.

Sheet it with OSB3. 2x 18mm + 1x 11mm.

Thanks. Have they indicated when you would be moved to the eagerly sought ToU offerings? Any indication of price plan / duration etc downstream? TIA.

Time to pick up the phone to a GSR fitter me thinks?

Currently assisting 2 clients on choices for a supplier. Could I please ask if Octopus have offered ( promised ) you a ToU tariff ( GO / GO faster ) from the outset, or whether they have asked to put you on their fixed price tariff for the immediate?

Absolutely fine afaic. Garages get built over existing services every day. Ask your GW guys to dig them in a bit deeper, and to slide some off cuts of duct over them ready to be positioned to run continuous where your founds go, ( from one side to the other ), eg so the services can be pulled out from under the garage if they ever need to be changed retrospectively.

Boom Damp bridging gone, plus better sound proofing from external noises coming in via cavities. Not cheap, but by the time you've done PIR then PB, plus it's not as good a job then I know what I'd be using tbh. The areas aren't huge, so go with the better product. Nice and solid for closing these cavities. Router out for a couple of 18mm plywood baffles for screwing blinds / nets into.

Make some 4x2 supports, ( to hold the PB in place with cross battens used as bracing ), and bond the PB on with exp foam first, then screws and washers for mechanical fix after. Then bond PB on. Sides first, head second. Consider using 40mm Marmox instead? Rigid, and you can skim straight to a board which is nothing but insulation.