Nickfromwales

FWIW, I didn’t like the system without the C channel, as it just didn’t feel like it would take a person falling hard against it. The amount of leverage from the top of one panel to the base rail is immense, and when I then spotted the C channel had been retrospectively fitted I tested it again and it was rock solid with prop 5-10mm deflection if you really really tried to move it. Full confidence WITH the C channel, but without it, I wouldn’t fit this in my own house.

I’m on a job atm where the same system has been installed on their balcony. They’ve gone with a top ‘C’ channel to bind all the panels of glass together, but before this was installed the deflection was prob 15mm if you really pushed / leaned onto each panel individually. The bottom fix of your channel is just utter garbage, and knowing what they were fitting this into / onto, your installers should have asked for a footing under those bricks with stainless threaded bar embedded, then the bricks drilled and laid over the the threaded bars afaic. 8mm 0r 10mm wedge anchors set in every 400mm may cure this, but unless the bricks have been seriously well installed and bedded in with a continuous, strong, mortar bed then the weak point will become the bricks themselves. As it is, you should refuse it instantly and get the area rep from this manufacturer to come to site and work with both you, and your installer, to get this fixed properly.

Depends if it has a window really, because of water in the cistern and running water / damp towel from hand washing in what is a very small compartment. In this situation, any extraction should suffice afaic, but doing as I stated above would get the best results from a low down extraction point as the incoming air would be coming in up high creating at least some turbulence within that compartment.

Could always put a transfer grille above the door and leave very little gap at the bottom. Then airflow would be from top to bottom, as best as.

That is supplemental extraction, not fundamental extraction. Would go WITH the main extractor, not replace it.

Do you have planning permission for the >9m2 ground mounted array? Do you have a hybrid inverter / DNO permission to add to the PV system?

An UVC is cold mains fed ( the force of the cold mains pushes the hot water out, so no pumps / gravity / F&E tank(s) required ) so you would get balanced hot and cold pressure throughout the house if you go fit this type of conversion. Some pics of a previous clients install with a 250L horizontal Telford cylinder. With a system like this, your showers would be much better ( and longer ) and you can have dual immersion too. I’ve added a pic of the end where you can see the immersion.

You will struggle massively to replace the bulk of stored water provided by your current cylinder tbh. To go to an instantaneous water heater for your needs would require 3 phase, as the single phase ones are utter garbage for flow rates. Do you have an electric shower? Do you have an attic ( where I assume your F&E tank(s) currently reside? You could relocate the cylinder, replace with an unvented cylinder ( UVC ) amd go horizontally in that attic ( if there’s room to do so ). No magic little gadget is going to do this I’m afraid, other than the 3 phase Steibel Eltron 27kW instant.

I actually convinced myself that the link was incorrect, but when you see prestige TF ( passivehaus rated ) companies using EPS beads, and raving about the results, then you start to reconsider your own knowledge. Criticism accepted, and I’m very happy to be corrected. I was actually going to respond with my opinion of EPS and PIR being quite acoustically ‘transparent’, wish I had now. A lot of PIR SIPS type roofs are very noisy in the rain / hail etc, so am happy to change what I said, as this is a rolling thread on a public forum, where members reside here free of charge. Please take what I say with a pinch of salt folks, I’m only human. Expert? Just a member on here, same as everyone else, and here to pick up info and learn on the way ( whilst sharing stuff where I would consider myself well-versed ). Wings clipped!! defo better to use it up elsewhere for thermal insulation.

The labour from cutting and fitting ( effectively ) will be far beyond the cost saving, as you’ll have lots of difficult spaces to access / fill. Sell it off and buy proper acoustic wool / batts afaic. https://soundproofexpert.com/polystyrene/

Same harnessed energy goes into the same principal; eg heating hot water by means of an immersion, via direct electricity or excess diversion, from micro generation. Doesn’t require a Sunamp at all, just means that they will do the same job, but at 3-4x the price of an UVC and with a number of caveats. Add in an inherent and massive uplift in ‘specialised’ installation and ‘niche’ product cost and any money / savings you stand to benefit from, via the stated energy efficiency, are only going to be for the next generation to benefit from. That’s if it then lasts long enough, bearing in mind it does not attract a lifetime warranty like the Telford stainless cylinders do Time to look realistically at a product which will likely never pay for itself in its lifetime, and think again. Unless you’ve money to burn of course.

Yup. Huge, huge expense, zero benefit.

Sorry, I seem to have missed this. Clients with these installed ( in PH settings ) have reported sub 1oC/hr losses from the Telford cylinders. Back in the day I commissioned Telford to make me a “super-cylinder”, with 100mm of spray foam applied. Turns out on paper it had worse credentials than the 50mm of standard injected foam. Go figure Pay 3x the price for a slightly better performing unit, and then sit down and work out how many times you’ll have to live to receive the benefit. Manufacturers state wonderful facts and figures, but few state that they’ve not allowed for losses from the unavoidable connected pipework etc. Sub 1oC/hr losses will satisfy most. Back to my cheesecake now. Tonight it’s vanilla with some strawberries and cream. At least I’ll die happy 😆

And don’t let the door hit you on the ass on the way out. 👋

Thanks, Obi Wan. Upgraded from laymen’s terms to science in one swing of the pen. 👌

If it’s internal, then it’s ok to use pushfit immediately from that fitting. However, you cannot ( should not ) put JG into Hep2o and vice versa. So, use a bit of copper as you say, and a Hep2o straight connector and then onto Hep2o pipe to be 100% kosher.

Apologies. JG underground stuff is push on and forget. All good there afaic. The above ground ( domestic internal ) stuff is shart. Every single time I see these fittings they’ve started undoing themselves. I’ve seen the collars that prevent this from happening, fitted, prob a half dozen times in 25 years. Not many merchants even bother stocking them.

I meant on site, not here btw lol. So many out there that just cut as straight a path as possible.

Use copper?! If someone turns up to site and says they’ll install any make of pushfit pipe externally, ask them to get back in their van and look for less of an idiot. I’ve just finished 1st fixing a clients entire house in Hep2o and have handed over to a 2nd fix plumber that the client sourced. Muppet has put JG Speedfit inserts and JG fittings onto the ends of my Hep2o pipe runs, right next to the last hep2o fittings, in plain view, and connected the sinks / basins with what he clearly regularly uses. I even left Hep2o fittings on site. Ffs 🤬. No circling / collars on them, to stop the JG stuff from doing their party-trick ( slowly unscrew themselves and blow off the pipe ), and they’re getting boxed in. Tres bien 😕 Guess I’ll now go and cut those out and do them properly. Seriously…..why do I bother?!?!?

Agree totally, but it is not the same, at all, for the same system with a wooden floor for space heating. The OP does that ask for warm feet, they are asking for space heating, so I was very specific in how I replied. Wood doesn’t ‘retain the heat’ like tiles do, and as such makes a very poor, near sporadic emitter of heat. Bathrooms also get tolerated when just a little “too warm” whereas this space will become nigh on intolerable in the same situation. Apples and oranges I think.

A couple of strips of self-adhesive neoprene on the reverse of the unit, and use the supplied wall bracket. Of the units I've fitted to date ( same unit as you've bought, funnily enough ) I've not had any noise issues with floor mounting to posi-joisted floors on 1st floors, or from mounting to TF walls either. Reports from clients to date stated complete inaudibility in the adjacent rooms, from the unit itself, and same in rooms from airflow / functionality. I always mitigate against noise / sound in my MVHR designs, so the results come from design / engineering vs luck, but easily doable for any DIY'er as long as they know what to do and where. Another reason for doing plenty of reading up here on Buildhub!! @Dreadnaught Have you bought attenuators to go between your manifolds and the Flair?

OK. Batteries and panels on the DC side can be to any scale, but export limitation needs to be specified by the DNO and that instruction is followed by your installer. You would ( should ) have to tell the DNO of the max output from the hybrid ( 5kw in your case ) and have had permission for that before commencing. Is the rating for 5kw of PV and an additional (x)kw for batteries? Hybrids are usually dual input, so panels on one input and batteries on the other. Therefore if you split the panels to have a dual-string arrangement, where will your batteries connect? Sounds like your fitter has gone for the guaranteed sale with his own, self-dispensed means of mitigation, insuring against your possible refusal from the DNO and his loss of a sale. Worst case is the inverter going to default and throwing the full 5kw to the grid eg in the event of an equipment failure / malfunction. Time to go ask some awkward questions......

BG favourite scam is to charge customers £10's each month for decades, until something breaks. Then, after you've drip-fed £3-4k into their bank, they tell you that appliance is now obsolete, that they will not repair it any more, or cover you any more, and you need a new boiler ( simple boiler swap ) at between £5k - £7k, or more, or piss off.

Drill a 25mm pilot in the interior panel immediately prior to the wool insulation. Then get a piece of 20mm conduit 600mm long and cut an angled cut on one end. Rotate the conduit into the wool until it hits the inner face of the outer skin. Use a 1000mm sds 10mm bit fed through the conduit to make a pilot hole to outside ( it'll go through timber and brick ) with the conduit held still thus preventing the rotating drill and the wool from meeting. A second pair of hands to hold the conduit will help. Drill back in from outside with a 22mm drill, and then offer the conduit back in so it meets with the outside face, seal the conduit to the brick, and then pop your cable through. Remember to drill downhill from inside, and uphill from inside, eg to prevent any water ingress to the house interior. Seal both the inside and outside of the conduit at the interior to prevent drafts.

If there is any shading, optimisers should have been fitted to get this to a standard that would pass MCS. What shading do you refer to?