Nickfromwales

Aim the pipe at ‘er next door and shout “fire in the hole”.

Nope. Look for a longer section of 50mm silicone rubber hose and double up on the jubilee clips. Make it so, No.2. 👊

Just tighten them until you feel you aren’t really pushing or pulling on the spanner. A larger spanner will offer more torque so go with your gut feeling and pinch up afterwards if necessary. I just put a bit of spit on the rubbers of the inserts tbh.

https://www.builderdepot.co.uk/flexseal-50mm-58mm-flexible-straight-coupling?gclid=CjwKCAjwhNWZBhB_EiwAPzlhNkWMZAgml2fWx4zggaPrdhIFWmBdJI4qMMdRpPG2ATdI0qk5WPq4FBoC85oQAvD_BwE

I think I’d want a rubber coupler with say 2x stainless jubilee clips either side to do that transition. If that spigot ever shears you’re up………ahem………💩 creek.

Do they say ABS vs PVC? Or PVC? I’ve fitted a few swimming pools, and the vibration / pump pressure has commanded ABS. What pressure does the pump operator at?

They wont be “sunken” unless you have specified the posi-joists accordingly. Removing the deck board 22-24mm typical for P5 or Egger, and fitting an insert wetroom former will bring you flush to the existing floor. If you do not use the Waterguard system then you’ll need a 6mm ply binder to tile onto. Just remember to fit the same thickness ply under the former to raise it up to suit

You need more arms than Vishnu to fit it without wrinkles . Bloody sticky stuff, but ridiculously bombproof, and excellent for a 1st floor install. Get more of it if funds allow and finish the room, with upstands, to get it utterly waterproofed. Is it 610? The stuff Impey give you in a mastic tube? It is the anti-Christ of sealants, and is STILL on some old combats and STILL wet / tacky to the touch!

What material is the spigot you’re connecting on to made of?

Is this for an MVHR system, continuous airflow, or for an extractor fan, sporadic airflow?

Ahhhhh, good times Meantime, down at the ranch….. Is the output under pressure ( pumped ) or gravity? You’d be far better off with a compression 50mm connector IMHO if it’s not pumped. Solvent weld joints don’t have any ‘give’ and can fracture / break free.

You can use the uni-strut no probs there, if it bodes better, and can likely still be very rigid with no hindrance to the softener going underneath it. Be mindful that the softener is a PITA with noise created from regeneration, so do yourself a favour and but one with electronica, eg so you can dictate when it regenerates ( early hours or midday etc ). Also, note the positions of the overflow and discharge of the softener, as most I’ve fitted have had to be raised slightly off the floor to facilitate the correct ( and effective ) gravity flow away from the unit, particularly where the pipework has to run horizontally away thus lifting the height of where the 2x discharge pipes enter the waste pipework.

Ah, ok. I’m not a fan of those tbh. I use ( sometimes multiples of ) the 500mm long rigid box attenuators religiously, after not getting very good results from those flexi attenuators ( which EsaveP recommended ). Since dealing with Nick Vaisey and the team at CVC Systems, who introduced me to these a few years back, things have become markedly improved!! Client feedback on top results / inaudibility is irrefutable. Client on the aforementioned lesser-performing job wanted cheap, and she got cheap. Rumour has it that they’re filing on her land, a sequel to Silence of the lambs……”Silence of the fans”. Not done one that way since, but I am fortunate enough to be working for more discerning clientele these days ( very fortunate, touch wood ). I did one install with the 1000mm long box attenuators, that was fun getting those into a 1.2m wide plant room Consider a change to the box attenuators @Dreadnaught, as the flexis are very difficult to keep in the ‘round’ state, eg if you need to clamp or support them they just collapse under their own weight.

1) as per my previous about the bricks being laid over the concrete footing 2) Yup. They have NOT followed MI’s 3) More like MyASS certified. I doubt you’ll need to complain, just the fitters are very wet behind the ears and are chancers, fitting high-end products chasing high-end pay days. They’ll back down i expect, in the presence of the reps and your pending threats of internet shame and subsequent removal from CERTASS whilst they’re investigated.

I’ve been done again. Didn’t spot the embedded link. But had been doing a good few 16 hr days recently so asleep at the wheel sorry. I’ve been quite hungry on site a few times, but must admit I’ve never resorted to munching through an MBC passive raft!! Eaten a couple of kebabs off the pavement of course, ahhh….the good old days

Who would have thought it!? “Common”, I am not so sure of; I‘ve never seen it myself in over a 1/4 century of being in the construction industry ( but I’ll admit I wouldn’t have been expecting / looking for it ), but a random Google search ( posted as a non expert I hasten to add )….. Problem: Ants and insects infest poly-bead insulation Poly-bead insulation is prone to becoming a foodstuff and home for insects, bringing unwanted insect guests into the home and presenting an insect infestation that can be difficult to treat. Solution: Replace poly-beads with an insulation that won’t become a foodstuff for pests Chemical spray foam insulation is impervious to pests and insects, and won’t deteriorate or become food for such critters. This combined with the tough seal it provides against holes, gaps and nooks and crannies means that not only will pests not be able to find a home and infest within the insulation, they shouldn’t be able to enter the property at all.

It’s not their BO I’m worried about

It was to cap off the feeds properly, as most installers aren’t happy just putting a cap / blank on the underside of the manifold ergo a bit of pipe and then a 16mm cap end gets fitted. Odd that they did not just supply / fit the correct manifold for the application? What gives? First thing to consider here, is; what is the kW of heat input required at the time you wish to invest the heat from electricity? If you go all the way and add 2 x 3kW Willis then you’ll get far more meaningful reinforcement. You don’t seem to state if you wish to fortify with the Willis / GO! or stop the oil from burning altogether? You can take a bigger supply cable from a single 40a circuit, and then take that to a second ‘mini CU’ supplying 2x 16a MCB’s to 2x Willis. Or you can cut into the meter tails and add the second CU there. Plenty of options tbh to get 2x Willis in, or even 3x IMHO if you’re going to do this, it should be with a view to stopping oil being consumed. You’re just not going to replace 12kW of input with GO! Unless you add more Willis units. Certainly something i would not write off as a possibility if the long-term economics say this is a robust pursuit

It depends ( is dictated by ) the gross internal space ( volume ), so that will set the commissioned values, but 225 vs 330 seems way to little a differential to me. You can run at the lower ( inaudible ) rate and monitor, room by room, you ppm for assuring that the system is functioning at the minimum basic level, eg removing CO2 / humidity at night when the house is at its lowest demand / adversity. Uplift in number of occupants etc will command what you do from that base value, but will ( and usually is ) then down to some degree of human interaction / forecast for the next level of fan speed required to suit that particular circumstance. Many run the MVHR much lower than ‘recommended’ without issue, setting the flow rate back for a ‘good nights sleep’ in particular.

I’d prefer bent tap connectors straight onto the 2 taps, if not a monoblock. Then the pipes / flexis won’t be on show.

Why buy those when most basin taps come with flexis which screw straight onto a 1/2” thread? Is it a mono block tap or traditional 2 tap hole basin with ‘normal’ taps?

Yup. That’s the norm on every one of my installs 👌👍

Yup. Fit and forget with Hep2o. Use a bullnose T ( 10x10x15 centre ) so you have 15mm coming off the tee, then you can go to chrome and compression onto a stub of copper. For the basin I’d just leave a neat recess out of site with the 10mm pipes ending in 2x 10mm M&F bends with 2x 10x 1/2” Hep2o vs brass adaptors, and the flex is from the taps straight onto those.

Hell no ! Naughty step for you. I’ll let you know when the 30 mins is up.

Just remember the SA PCM58 ‘melts’ at 58oC, but SA recommended a much higher input temp to get a decent recovery rate eg kW absorbed vs time to satisfy the stat with the SA fukllt recharged. A low temp heat pump will give 65oC at full wallop, with poor CoP, and still recharge the SA quite slowly. In winter you risk freezing of the HP when running high temps for extended periods. A true high temp HP will be a split, with a noisy, obtrusive indoor unit chattering away ( fine if you can lose it somewhere where it isn’t a nuisance ) but having seen installs with these fitted I am not a fan of them vs a monoblock. A monoblock will heat an UVC perfectly well with a good CoP, but that will not be the same with a SA. These are hugely inefficient ( overall ) when being heated by an external heat source. SA are best being heated via the in-built immersion heater. *Then comes the caveat that if the immersion heater fails, the ENTIRE SA has to be removed ( at your expense ) shipped to SA ( at your expense ) repaired at their leisure ( whilst you have ZERO DHW at home ), and then shipped back and re-installed by you ( at your expense ). Won’t be a saving on the comparative energy efficiency then, and will take about another 2 decades to give you a return on the already huge period for RoI. UVC from Telford ( and some others ) = lifetime. *And that’s just if the immersion fails.