Nickfromwales

Fitting 2x icon in mine shortly. Next to no throughput / backdraft / ventilation heat loss with these. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ADICON15ECO.html?source=adwords&ad_position=&ad_id=415703895099&placement=&kw=&network=u&matchtype=&ad_type=&product_id=ADICON15ECO&product_partition_id=940253955038&campaign=shopping_excluded&version=finalurl_v3&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6PaI5P7q9wIVlJftCh3esgHUEAQYASABEgLh9vD_BwE

From the plumbers PoV it hasn’t been paid once Has he said he will accept the £1500 and walk away? Tis crap, oh well.

Great detail, but the con is that all of the electrics would need to be run in conduit due to the insulation filling what was the service cavity. Or the circuits downgraded / cables upsized.

No probs. You can 16x15mm fittings in straight or angled, and I used to run 16mm under the floors, then have a compression 16x15 elbow, and bring 15mm copper up to a 15mm rad valve. I do not like to see pushfit pipe, but MLC is much hardier, so it’s fine for this instance, and then just down to personal preference.

DPC under sole plates is a standard detail, inclusive of where there is an underlaying DPM. On an MBC TF project atm and I have observed the integrity of them wherever I have made ‘tweaks’ to the room layouts / stud wall locations. Penetrating the DPC where you drill through for fixings will have zero detriment. Relax

You cannot interfere with the pipe in any way, shape or form. So the answer to that is “NO” As per the link in that comment; https://www.underfloorstore.co.uk/product/uponor-compression-adapter-mlc-uk-16-15mmft

Whack in some generic black 63mm duct. I f they query it, I’ll buy the drinks.

Have you looked further upstream for a communal stopcock? I linked one of these from eBay, and it did not appear to have any kind of isolation. Been plumbing for nearly 3 decades and I have never encountered one of these tbh.

OK, you got me I should have said rain / weather proof. I’ll get my coat.

I kind of feel for the plumber, as the 1st fix is where all the assets, head work and material costs tend to lay. He should have approached you to discuss the ongoing engagement, but if the builder gave him nothing and he’s entirely out of pocket then that sucks. I had one guy working for me who had all his tools stolen. I felt compelled to help him out and he stayed on to work for the company for some time, with a great relationship and a sense mutually of, what sometimes, is the right thing to do. Difficult for everyone. Has the plumber pursued this chap independently ?

100%?

😳. Ok. Needs something sorting, so you may have to rebate the external EPS. Air is an insulator so it’s not going to sink the ship.

Maybe “bell” out the first few courses to give a faux cavity, then rerun in at 45o to the residual depth of just the rain screen?

Motorised Velux / roof lights with automation are a great and cheap option for purge, or for overheat pre-mitigation. I would deffo fit post heating / cooling in anything remotely well built. My house is shart, and already beginning to become uncomfortable. Air con going in this year ( burning off excess PV ). The thermal time constant plus the heat energy captive in the interior materials / inner fabric will allow a long swing from temp A to temp B, but probably too long for the upstairs rooms with adverse North > South solar inertia. Depends a lot on glazing as well. Solar reflective coatings work bloody well, so consider that for your strategies.

Membrane can go atop the 60mm PIR and be fixed by the battens. After that 1st fix electrics / plumbing. The OSB would be affixed AFTER 1st fix, so all metal back boxes would be in already and the OSB cut out to suit. Sounds like a good plan IMO, and AT detailing with a membrane behind the battens is shit-loads easier to manage and preserve IMHO.

Render IS waterproof, which is why it gets applied! Yes, point impact would damage this with relative ease, but you can apply additional layers of base coat and mesh to 'beef' this up. If you want to take a hammer to it, not much will withstand that tbh, but render over a cement board would be an option. Visit a house with render over EPS EWI and see for yourself that it is quite robust. If you are crap at parking and hit the corner of the house........use the bus

Wow! That's not exactly discreet Moving parts and maintenance? Lifespan? And why not batteries?

Is it electrical energy you wish to convert / store?

Some useful numbers here https://cordek.com/products/filcor

The Nudura is from 'across the pond' so as @Russell griffiths found out, the embedded plastic spines are on imperial centres. To affix plasterboards at 1200x2400 you would need to apply horizontal counter battens rising on 300 / 400 / 600 OC's ( which also creates your service void if you don't want to bury cables flush into the EPS in conduit ) or you could fit 11 or 15mm OSB ( 1220 x 2440 ) and PB to that.

As one of our original boffins once noted here, plasterboard actually has a very high specific heat capacity, so not quite cut and dry.

I suppose I should add that I found myself, a few days back, wondering about exactly how much wasted ( diverted ) energy would be spent maintaining a "passive" dwelling that had not been designed with some degree of management for unwanted / nuisance solar. I believe it would be significant, eg a shameful waste. Even having excess PV going into that endeavour seems a little grotesque from a design PoV, and it should, instead, be going into other strategic energy storage for self consumption. "Fabric first" as always, wins the day.

Thanks, and agreed. My ethos is prevention vs cure, so where some designers will give you the option to go 'full throttle' to cool a home, I prefer to simply work on preventative methods to stop it getting hot in the first place. With successful management ( by using controls with a tight hysteresis ) the runaway should never be more than a degree or degree and a half, eg the uplift over the time taken for the controls to recognise that occurrence and for the system components to have kicked in to respond to tackle said unwanted uplift. A correctly designed system, in a relatively relaxed state, should not struggle to bring that back down in a reasonable timeframe without having to become too aggressive in its response. To cool a house down that has been left to runaway to, say, 24oC would almost need air con to drag it back down, given that by then the fabric surroundings would have had time to achieve that new ambient and would be holding on to that heat energy for a much longer / extended period of time, ergo the 'response' would need to dialled up then from a whisper to a shout. Each dwelling / instance is different, so I review each case uniquely, and on its own merit, in my day to day business. Comments here, however, do sometimes generalise a little, but it is a widely differing crowd on here with varying dwellings / installed systems / wants / needs, so we do our best to cater for all.

Did he let out any outbuildings and the extras are landlord meters eg outgoing not incoming?

Interesting. My main thoughts are if the supply air is branched over two floors and the Comfopost is supposed to deliver 'some' heat or cool effect, then surely the main unit would have to go into a semi or full boost flow rate to facilitate that? If the upper floor was the one needing the extra help, then the whole house would receive additional airflow whilst the upper floor was serviced, as trying to shift any kind of heat energy via MVHR would be utterly useless at 'trickle' flow rate? How were you 'sold' this idea?