Nickfromwales

Higher velocity at the larger bore ducting, ergo the terminals coming off those primary runs from the machine have to be strangled back more which tends to make them ( albeit slightly) more audible, particularly when boosting. Also means you can’t target specific rooms or floors when tempering the air via an air handling unit. For 2 current Passive House clients, I have specified Brink Air Comfort units to provide heating / cooling to 1st floor rooms where there is no wet space heating. GF cooling is via slab cooling, FF tempering is via the BAC unit so thus requires segregation at the plant and radial runs to rooms as per my designs. Large bore series run systems do not allow that flexibility, so whatever goes in at the plant goes to every room.

Lounge yes, 1 terminal opposite corner to the door Agree on hall, maybe retain one? Kitchen defo, not for airflow but to keep things quiet on boost. I’d stick with 2 terminals in the bedroom for the least amount of audibility, but you could go at the head of the ceiling and do as you suggest.

The ducts are silent, with the only audibility ever being at the terminals in the rooms, and that’s only if it’s been designed poorly / with bean-counting. I use radial MVHR distribution for every single M&E project of mine, as the results are excellent each and every time. Larger bore primary ducts off series arrangements have much higher airflow, so would be the more problematic afaic.

Yup. 100%.

The “cheap” kits are fine. Aquaseal / Mapei etc. Have a proper read of this thread. You may need to make a sandwich first and settle in.

I’ve only ever used MR PB, tanking the wet areas meticulously and sealing with CT1 where necessary. I’ve got a lot of 1st floor wetrooms under my belt, and still have the same mobile number, and nobody’s ever rung me to say they’ve got a leak ( or that any tiles have fallen off ).

You really do not need to worry about 5-10mm gaps tbh. Any decent spark will see this and make sure the cables are installed to avoid one getting trapped between the faceplate and the lug of the box. Basic stuff, practiced regularly on many sites each day, and not anything to worry about.

Lay some off cuts of sheet timber down as walking boards and get stuck in.

Ahem, reverend 👊😎👌

Lasts the duration. Not the immaculate solution but does exactly what it says on the tin. I’m sure it remains inactive when suspended in water, and reacts when introduced to atmosphere. My spider sense says drain out afterwards, but probably harmless tbh. Manufacturers instructions say its fine to stay in…..

Hi, and welcome. Are you looking to avoid a retro fit of a wet heating system ( rads and pipe work )?

@SarahG Ask yourself what you don’t know, and what stage you’d be comfortable being fully in charge of a construction project, and then have a reality check. Loads of people keep reasonably quiet about the adversities, negatives, stress and losses from what they thought would be a, seemingly, easily manageable undertaking. There are others who micro-manage everything in life, and have the time to do so. Some who are naturally ‘managerial’, regardless of the pursuit, and who will come off better simply due to a huge investment in time / research. They’re usually self employed, semi or fully retired etc, and have this time. Others don’t / aren’t and have to use the gaps in between, and hope that time is suffice. The sacrifice is personal / family life and sanity, and when they get compromised so do you. And that’s if it’s all going well……. Choose a very good general builder and get out of the way up until weathertight, then at that stage see how you feel you’ve coped as a passenger. At weathertight you can relax a bit, bank would have released more funds, if you’re borrowing, and you can pause for thought to plan the final push with fit and finish both inside and out. Much less stress and far less consequences if you make simple faux pas here and there, by comparison, vs what trouble you could get into getting the shell up. Assume nothing, check EVERYTHING, as you will be the only truly diligent person(s) on your build.

Unless you can find the offending leak, which will be tiny and probably evaporates each time the heating warms through, you may be better off dosing with Sentinel leak sealer and running it at max for a few hours. It's shit-hot stuff and works incredibly quickly. I would recommend, once dosed and the leak sealed, emptying and refilling the system to get back to just water / inhibitor mix ( or as close to ) for the remainder of the life of the system, only re-dosing if the problem reoccurs.

“Iceberg, dead ahead!” 😎👍👊

It can be rotated on its axis, to gain access to the filter, but I can't see anywhere where it states ( either way ) that it is orientation dependant. I suppose this would be a question for Brink Tech Support.

Not normally. Can you post a pic? Theyre usually inserted into a ‘dry pocket’ so don’t require a drain down to replace.

No, I was too busy scoffing pies, Baldrick

I have relayed to Peter my own dire experiences with the Evohome system, installed for 2 clients ( one a brand new ZEB performance passive dwelling, and another an old stone cottage ) and I ( and the clients ) suffered irreparably for both accounts. Painfully difficult to set up when you go to multi-zone / multi sensor, and after-sales and "tech" ( LOL ) support is a fcuking joke. I am currently boxing the aforementioned installed equipment for delivery back to HW and have requested a full retail price refund to be issued to the client. FYI, I have purchased from HW over the past 25+ years, and will continue to do so, however their EvH system will NEVER EVER be up for consideration on ANY of my up=coming clients new build projects. 👎

You can relax, I'm "sport-immune". 😎 I'm not quite the quintessential 'Taff' I'm afraid Discernibly refined, and, of course, "tits only" on every single first date, without deviation. A true gent, and a connoisseur of life if you like. LINK Something like this may suffice. Somebody else on here has posted a different unit, but I cannot find it.

Hi. Alarm bells are ringing quite loudly here. a 9kW electric boiler ( won't scrape the surface in winter ) and a 16kW ASHP ( a good mono block will offer 65oC max with quite a poor CoP unless it is a high temp split unit with internal compressor unit ) will perform much worse in winter than the typically 'advertised' figures gleefully state. The LLH will be completely unsuitable for you, so forget that and look towards fitting a 100L minimum size buffer tank for all this hydraulic separation and multi-fuel integration or don't get started at all. In honest, I'd ditch all of the above; as it will be fatally flawed when these ToU tariffs end up evaporating, or ( inevitably ) the unit costs rises as we know it will, dramatically. I would look at A2A space heating via 'air-con' units to best convert electricity into heat tbh. Do you have solar PV? Sucking up cheap rate electricity and then extracting it at a high rate of knots ( in expensive to buy and short-lifespan batteries ) isn't good maths imho when purchasing 'retail'. Add up the cost of all this, and then put that into a hypothetical savings account. Then work out how much gas you could have bought with all that money....... It will startle you, I'm sure. Remember that a split A2A A/C system will also cool in the summer a big bonus! K.I.S.S.

Elaborate, please?

Hi. Any T connection to an existing pipe run is called a "branch", and regardless of pitch it is still a "change in direction" so will require either; 1) An IC to allow rodding access at said branch or 2) Accessible rodding access inside the house where the pipe terminates vertically, immediately upon entering the dwelling. The latter is quite undesirable, due to having to create access for rodding / maintenance, and I would certainly go for adding an external IC. Ultimately this will be down to your building control officer's decision, and not yours or 'ours'

They can be run at the same time, but my point was during summer ( most of it ) where the RWH tank cold fill system would be filling off the mains at the same time you want max cold mains potential yourself for showers etc, even more of an annoyance if the supply is already meagre. Filling the bog is not life or death, nor any appliances, they’ll just ‘eventually’ fill, but if you want a shower then it’s likely ( and no, not for you ) that the DHW device will be very much cold mains dependant. 👎. How is this set up? When I checked the regs you could not create a physical link between RHW and the potable mains supply, so no 2 position valve etc ( or a setup like a softener bypass ) is permissible. The only thing I could see to do this with was a boiler filling loop, 2 lots of double check non returns, and a removable filling link which could only be connected to one or the other, and NEVER the two supplies together.

So with a conservative install cost of £5k start to finish you’d need to be able to completely fill and completely empty this ~240 times to cover purchase price, without ever using the mains.

Likewise.