Nickfromwales

My mate had an Armstrong 399, 2 stroke single, left hand kick. At 17, I weighed in at around 7 stone soaking wet. I kicked the bike, it kicked me back......ouch. Thank goodness for my Axo's or it would have broken my leg I recon

Depending on the size of house / number of bathrooms, afaic a 32mm connection would be a no-brainer, as long as it wasn’t hugely more expensive? As urban areas get developed, the water pressure will head downwards, so consider future proofing too. Length of pipe run? Lots of variables to consider.

+1 to all of the above. Glad you're on the mend.

we'll need a high pressure 22mm feed to wash your mouth out, young man! (expletive deleted)ing penis.

Not after I boosted the cold mains with an accumulator, and increased the cold mains backbone to 28mm No rubbish on my shift mate Stopped at 2 as one bathroom was in the garage annex and was sporadic / guest use only, so it was agreed to leave as-was so no re-tiling / plumbing was needed in a recently finished bathroom.

FYI, you can have a 1000 solar panels and a lorry load of batteries if you go to a Hybrid inverter with all the panels and batteries on the D/C side vs all A/C coupled which requires grid ( DNO ) approval. You sound like you are looking of both EPS and UPS ( Emergency and Uninterruptible Power Supply ) which you CANNOT have with the majority of the of-the-shelf A/C coupled equipment, as these are required by law to 'island' during power cuts. I myself will be having UPS & EPS at my own house imminently, with all panels and batteries on the D/C side ( so no begging to the DNO ).

Yup, and Yup. Your terminology seems a little jumbled.... PV have inverters, not EV. EV = Electric Vehicle? Please repeat your last, as we cannot advise until what you seek to achieve is understood properly

Hope you're going with Beamshield / other for that B&B deck? Cold ventilated sub-floors are the last option if I specify a foundation system for a client!!

Ask them if they can provide you with 2x 1ph connections off that tranny, or whether it would need to be upgraded to glean the 3rd connection. I've seen this practiced in a good few places where the original connection had been exhausted and a second ( same ) phase ( or L2 ) added. You just have a 3ph head and L1 and L2 are off the same 11kV tranny, so you get 2 lots of 80a or 100a off L1 to play with. Usually one will go to the domestic CU for all the normal stuff, and then the second goes to EV, or even 2x 7kW EV chargers. As you already have a 100a connection the house CU could still take one 7kW EV charger, ( the rest of the UK are having these routinely retrospectively fitted so should not be an issue, your DNO only care right now as it is a new connection / service alteration! ), so you could link that to the PV for use in Eco mode for trickle charging, and then swap the car to the second phase for faster charging or to charge EV#2 etc, on the basis that it would never have any meaningful input from PV anyways, so you can strategize the bulk EV charging that way. Just means adding a second EV charger. It depends on the loading of your ASHP, as the DNO's still shit the bed when you mention one.......even though a big electric shower is a far worse enemy in terms of shunt resistance / constant power consumption. Most modern ( inverter driven ) ASHP's are soft start, and then modulate down significantly after start up. That's dependant on the type of dwelling you construct, and the types of heating emitters you're intending to use. Ask for a second same phase and see what they say. A few years back I did a big system overhaul on a 5/6 bed house with 3 electric showers and all electric cooking, in the main house, and also all electric cooking in the granny annex in the apex roof of the large detached garage. All of that was running off one 60a 1ph connection. Two of the showers were 8.5kW, and the one in the en-suite was 10.5kW!! The 60a fuse survived on diversity and that everything was never actually on at exactly the same time. I then had 5kW of PV installed and the DNO didn't bat an eyelid, approval was instant, but I had deleted 2 of the 3 electric showers for a wet system by then. DNO didn't know about that, or care, as it was retrospective. For some reason they go nuts when it's new works......

F*** Me! You're building in Gravenhill then?

PMSL Nearly choked on my coffee. I can see the new ad campaign on TV...... "You can do it when you Orange Spunk Bob it".......

To use it in a sentence; "You two are a pair of wonkers". Hope that clears things up?

Fifty shades of wee 😆

Which should see you in and out in a flash then? See you back here in 10 mins with said chrome elbow. How I would laugh, literally until each of my nuts fell from my sack, if it was out of stock when you got there, but the website said they had 3 🤣

Yup. B&Q.

This is where the magic happens You could have used a chrome compression elbow ffs! I’ll post you a fiver now to cover the upgrade cost.

You can just make it up. Box ticking exercise at best. Most don’t even read it.

✌️ 🤠

Tee the bath and shower at the room, with the T’s behind the bath panel or vanity unit, and that drops you to 5.

If you ask @Russell griffiths he’ll say yes. The Illbruck is closed cell and rated for air tightness ( as much as any foam can be vs tape / liquid membrane ) and goes off almost like chewing gum vs the easily friable regular ( open cell ) foams. You can yank at the Illbruck foam and it won’t tear / break off, but regular foam is like honeycomb and very poor in comparison.

Just bumping this again for newer members to bookmark / reference.

FWIW, I think satellite manifolds are a bad idea.......unless you have a mansion and a HRC 👎

Defo do NOT run 22mm radial runs, unless you're using a hot return setup? The delay in getting hot water out of the basin taps would be painful. Those would be huge dead legs, and very very wasteful in unused water having to be first discharged, and then the amount of lost DHW left to go cold in that increased volume of dead leg the same. Bear in mind that you'll only ever be using one outlet at a time, so a 15mm feed, fed off a primary manifold from 22mm pipework, will be more than suffice afaic. Also bear in mind that most modern taps / shower valves etc have a max flow rate restricted by manufacture, so you can only get a certain deemed flow rate out of them anyways, waaaaaay less than a 22mm pipe has to offer.

https://www.toolden.co.uk/sealants-adhesives/expanding-foam/illbruck-fm330-pro-foam-air-seal/?gclid=CjwKCAjwwL6aBhBlEiwADycBIKWh4ubIGY3fLagkvxIwGvtNY7ewq8l_B-raIo9dzrYYVfYbgKUAlRoCKoEQAvD_BwE You don't need to use much to get an airtight seal, but I always squirt some in between the individual cables to get a good spread of foam and all surfaces 'coated'. If there's room, slide a redundant piece of 20mm flexible conduit in amongst the cables, foaming / taping the end of that., leaving about 200mm of conduit hanging out so you can grab it and pull it out. Get you test done, and then just pull the redundant conduit out and plug the hole it leaves with more foam, or insert more cables into the hole it leaves in the original squirt of foam, and add more foam as required / necessary.

+1.... in a nutshell. Kind of a pointless pursuit imho, but the question was asked Switch the heating on, balance it all out at the switch on, go to pub, drink beer.