Nickfromwales

MCS is not about markup, it’s about responsibility / liability / guaranteeing a foundation production or more. Design software and MCS scrutinisation offers a quality assurance which you don’t get elsewhere. Why do you think only MCS accredited installations are eligible for SEG payments ?! Why do you think manufacturers offer extended warranties on their kit, some lifetime warranties, on the proviso it was installed by a competent / registered company or person and maintained annually. Markup is recovery of overheads which you should expect to pay when engaging with such companies. If you don’t want the service / backup / reliability / assurances / qualifications / experience / registration / SEG etc, just head down the pub where you’ll find a load of lesser-beings propping the bar up. “Big markup”…..Way too coarse a generalisation there sorry!!

🤔🙄

If it wasn’t optimised that was a lethal cocktail.

Can you not mount this remotely and run multiples of insulated ducts to the space it needs to service? Did this on one project where I installed 2x 92mm ducts for return air, low down at the far ends of the room, and then another 2x 92mm ducts for supply of fresh / cool air. 4 ducts at the source and then you could just use a centrifugal fan and 3 row heat cool units from ( for eg ) BPC.

East - west split for PV will be plenty useful enough, and that’s what I’m doing. My ridge runs S - N. I expect a very long solar day.

Battens and insulation on the internal faces will create the thermal break with relatively little impact and be quite effective. You could line the internal faces of the reveals with Compacfoam or Marmox to go belt n braces.

No mention of that from the OP though, which is my whole point.

Void from links ?

Even a paint brush is enough to bend and fold these fins over, they're ridiculously fragile. I will only use air now after learning this the first time I cleaned it out. The fins are literally like thick kitchen foil. I had to straighten the few I bent with a Stanley blade.

I beefed up the roof joists of mine to give a 900mm cantilevered projection to the side ( gate off pavement to access path between shed / house ) and ‘front’ and changed to clear roofing sheets, eg to allow light through but also be reasonably protected from rain. Worked a treat. Use the software to create 2 sheds and just Frankenstein the cutting list to produce what you want?

Ah, apologies. I missed the actual question…. The crud gets effectively removed by blowing the compressed air in the opposite direction to normal airflow through the exchanger, ergo it doesn’t get forced deeper between the fragile narrow fins Disclaimer: Replies may be affected by the fact that the Peroni is ice cold and going down like silk. 🥵.

I disconnect the discharge hose and take the whole unit outside and sit it on a bench. It gets stripped down, and all de-crudded with compressed air. All the crud now lives outdoors. It’s a PITA which I will be happy not to have to deal with when the split AC units go in. Good deal on 2x ( 3 x 9000btu ) units from appliancesdirect.com so I can have climate control in 5 rooms plus my office / man-shed. I spend a lot of time in there doing M&E designs and it gets unbearable in the summer. My bad for not going whole-hog with insulated roof / walls / floors, but tbh I just didn’t anticipate being so busy with the consultancy stuff!! Lesson learned 🥺.

Got to make a Gordon Ramsey outdoor BBQ / kitchenette for my current clients so am about to bridge this myself. The Belfast sink is an option but can look a bit ‘clunky’, but I may dress one in with brisk piers as suggested, and tile ( mosaic ) to make it look tres bien. Will likely make a deck to one side for a tap like this…. https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/arezzo-matt-black-industrial-style-basin-mixer-tap?campaign=googlebase&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI36_3xPD9-AIVh6ztCh05Kg5REAQYASABEgJRa_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Can be swung away to the side to fill a bucket etc or wash your feet.

+1

According to my basic maths, 800w and upward. They’re far more aggressive than a typical MVHR fan. So, around 3-4x the power or more.

You also wont want to suck all the build dust into it either. 200w or less fan size will do very little. You should seal u the MVHR ducts when you depressurise, if you've connected to atmosphere?

Crikey....... You need to get the cables tested BEFORE any other works progress / get covered over. I'm out.

Insulation resistance and other such basic tests are irrelevant to the OP then?

It’s when you assume nothing can / will go wrong, and you don’t exercise diligence, that's when it does go wrong. This forum dispenses advice, so take that as good advice, or with a pinch. Time on the tools, hands-on practical experience, qualifications etc cannot be replaced by a few paragraphs here. Nobody yet mentioned that they did / did not carry out the checks as per @ProDave‘s comment above, so we can assume they were blissfully unaware of the risks posed by NOT doing so and then self installing their PV. I’ve heard enough horror stories, and instances where an individual has been electrocuted, to be less blasé.

PV is inevitable, so if you fit a combi you’ll be stuffed for diverting excess into DHW all summer long. No free hot water for you then!! “Efficiency” needs to be elaborated upon, and is an overall summary vs just what that appliance choice will provide you with. Do not be short-sighted here

They don’t get much quieter tbh, as is the same for my sons attic unit. Also needs an 8” discharge hose to atmosphere. A split will give you cooling with just the sound of a fan oscillating. I’m looking at a split for my other sons room as there just isn’t any floor space left in the room that I wish to sacrifice, so a unit on the wall is the weapon of choice by default. Maintenance of the in-room units is a drag, as the tiny gaps between the heat exchanger fins catches dust extremely efficiently, and I have to take the unit outside and blow it all clean with my compressor and an air ‘gun’. You can see how quickly and by how much the output is affected by even the start of that accumulation of crud, mostly carpet / clothes fibres and then the fine particle dust catches in that. A PITA, but, in fairness, without the attic unit running 24/7 that room would be unusable. I am likely to go for a split for my other sons room because a) I want to put AC in every bedroom by the end of the year, ( 8kWp of PV going in soon, expanded by another 4 also by the end of the year ), but his room ( rear extension 1st floor ) is 9” brick and it is just unbearable in both the peak of summer and the depths of winter, so that unit will likely need max output focussed in that room plus one other less adverse room, ergo the split will likely feed 2 rooms with his ‘prioritised’ as iirc you can do with certain decent splits. The other 3 less adverse bedrooms can come off a second split ( feeding the 3 rooms ) and that should suffice. Was hoping to get DIY Pre-gassed units for self install, but I’ve decided to just run all the gas lines, condensates, cables etc and dry mount the internal and external units and then get an AC fitter in to gas, test and commission in one visit. I’m way too busy with work to do EWI, and IWI is not sn option either for a bunch of reasons, but the 9” brick extension is gagging to be EWI’d in honesty. Time is my enemy.

Buy with you CC

I’d give you my PV partners contact details, but I know he’ll say December. PM me if you get completely stuck.

Anybody know if the Tigo optimisers drop the open-circuit voltage to <1v ( like the Solaredge ones do? ). Apologies for the hijack, blame the beer. I am COMPLETELY innocent. Disclaimer: Innocent when sober = questionable at best.

All kneel before God ( aka beer )