Nickfromwales

Ola. Have you worked out how much more ( additional ) heat you actually need up there to get it to an acceptable level? Could adding skirting heating get you there? Would save a bunch of extra work. If you migrate to rads then could just ditch everything back to the 2x 22mm flow and return and connect the rads directly using only TRV's on each rad for control. If you wish to retain the UFH controller and stats ( do you have 1 stat per room / space up there? ) then you'd simply ditch the TMV on the manifold and install a TRV on each rad. Yes, that's correct. The TRV's would still open up fully to get to their respective set points, and only reduce the flow rate as the room / space is arriving at / has achieved the set temp. Just pipe each rad back to each respective manifold port and then job done.

Ouch.

Swing-check non return valves after the LLH would kill most issues off, but the low volume of water in it ( <15L typically ) may not solve any short-cycling issues. I'd use a 50L or 100L buffer in place of that. I'd then move that to front of house, instead of the last component before the UFH manifolds, so the duct heater / cooler also didn't promote short-cycling eg all of the downstream heating applications benefitted from it. DHW needs to go around the buffer / LLH of course, and not via it. Not a good idea to have no hydraulic separation between the ASHP and the duct heater / cooler as it looks like it's all set up so the heating loads can run independently.

Can you not get a waste pipe ( 32mm or 40mm ) to this location?

@Post and beam If you need a good screeder, my guy will travel. He's very good, and has done screeding over UFH pipes for at least one other member here. That just leaves you to find an UFH installer. PM me if that's of any help and I'll put you in touch with him.

There would be nothing wrong with getting an UFH installer to lay, connect, and then pressure test the pipework, leaving a gauge connected for 'customer confidence', and then an independent screed company follows up with the pour.

Have you opened the mixing valve all the way up and checked if the flow rates perk up then? At low temp settings those types of mixing valves strangle the flow a lot.

Well spotted, eyes like a bloody hawk! Why they did this is beyond me. . Needs to be 22mm, but if up to temp it shouldn't matter that much. From a cold start is where this is most relevant.

Have you asked the ones that do turnkey installations, as per @nod's suggestion?

Just spat my beer out. PMSL x3 🤣

Is there any way we can destroy this picture? This immaculate bit of plumbing excellence is giving me an inferiority complex. I'd only just started to go outdoors again, and here the bloody thing is again. Tidy.

Defo some type of 'member'.

Lucky bugger. Unreliable sack-o-shart IMO, and I've been fitting multi-zone systems for decades. This system is completely reliant on the 'perfect house' and anything beyond just sees drop-outs and zones / manifold wiring centres getting ghosted. If I was offered one for free, I'd put it on eBay. Still waiting for Honeywell to respond regarding my clients full refund FFS.

Tea and bacon sandwiches often work wonders

Yup. Weep holes. The bottom of them is open to allow rainwater to escape from the frame where it gets in when it's raining. Paint scratched down to the primer above that cracked weep cap.

Yes. It's perfectly normal standard to brick / clad after the windows go in. This has been going on all over the UK today without ( many ) dramas. Some drama does occur, but that's a % and relative to every single step of your build. You need to be weathertight ASAP, so get the doors and windows fitted and the roof and rain screen on, then you can take a breather with a secure, dry build Have a word with the brickies and state your concerns BEFORE they start work, and then get confirmation off them that they'll be careful and respectful of your new windows and doors etc Should be fine. Or, they'll kill you and make the death look like an accident.

Ignore Capt. Yellowgrout. You won't need to remove them. They go in and stay in, then you move onto the next problem.

They're all making up for inadequacies elsewhere. . Bloody English

I think he mentioned some kind of herb garden in there. I hope it's Rosemary, that's my favourite.

Bad workman......................tools.......................blame.................... 🙄

Bollocks. Of course they come out. Stick to your pi$$ coloured grouting, you.

Strange that nearly every BCO AND warranty provider that I’ve been around over the last 4 years or so gave this lip service at best. Most of those projects were / are well-insulated / airtight dwellings, or PH, and even ZEB, but at that level most BCO’s are just way out of their depth. Written practices aren’t always practiced.

Everything gets better with a few beers. Or just drink enough that you don't feel the cold 👍 Best to line the stomach first of course

If you only need a few days of heat a year it's free!! The revenue and mitigated costs over summer will have made you 'energy rich' and will provide for / contribute towards winter space heating ( if all designed correctly / thoughtfully ). Best not to focus on the bits that cost you, think of what didn't cost you and do the maths properly