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carou

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  1. that's exactly what would happen with me, it would remain full til it overflowed into the surrounding field until the ditch subsides and the water can run off down the ditch
  2. nice but the brook would fill this up as opposed to the house if the brook breaks it's banks.
  3. Nice but the water off the house would drain into the ditch ok and not cause a problems so I don't believe it needs slowing down. it's only when the ditch overflows it's got no where to go and if I made a a water holding facility it would fill up as quick as lightening by the brook not the house unfortunately so I don't really see the point in having to create one.
  4. A new build I'm doing on my land in the countryside, I'm hoping to run surface water into my own brook as it's about 15 meters from the edge of the property and the soil is heavy clay. It's seems the most logical answer rather than an attenuation tank because when the rain pours down, in the wettest times of the year, the soil not being free draining and the amount of water coming down the brook (it's taking road run off) it can on the very odd occasion burst it bank and overflow into the field (hence why I'm raising up my new build) and usually takes a good 1/2 day to begin to drain away and to stop my field looking like a lake. An attenuation tank would just fill up from the brook overflowing. Unfortunately the architect has popped in an attenuation tank into the drawings which unfortunately I asked them to remove because of what happens but they didn't so Building Regs now have this tank in their drawings and I'm hoping they will see that it's not necessary. Any experiences/thoughts on this please?
  5. Really appreciate your help thank you. I’ll message you my contact.
  6. I obviously need to have another talk with him with this information. Can anyone update the phpp to take into account changing to UFH or making a window that’s subject to OH smaller? My PHC said it’s a lot of work £+++. How can I tweak it or can’t I?
  7. The PHC architect said it was to take into account how the weather can drop off dramatically from day to night in winter in this country. If I ask him to give me the phpp can anyone with the software update it to change it to UFH or make a west facing dorma window smaller?
  8. can I update my architect PHPP easily or do I need my accredited PH consultant to do it? I need to reduce the size of 2 x dormas on the first floor on the west elevation? How would I go about it with regards buying the software/getting it approved by the certifier, getting the architect to give me my PHPP? It's looking like a pass ATM.
  9. do I need it as I'm told it's not going to be the instant heat that I need in a PH? I'm told rads with an certain sort of ASHP is better way?
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