Nickfromwales

Hello, stranger! Yes, as with everything the government are involved with, a complete cake & arse party. Forget it. Better option would be to chase any grant for fabric improvements like insulation (cavity & EWI) and 3G. How infinite is your supply of properly seasoned (20% or less) wood?

If you are on oil, what improvements have you made to make a move to an ASHP sensible? You can pretty much forget calculations including maths from an assumed flow of 30oC?! If you have not nearly doubled the size of the radiators, increased the size of all of the primary pipework, improved the insulation / 3G glazing, and more, then I think you are being VERY optimistic of an SCoP of over 3.5! Retro-fit of an ASHP is often done poorly, or badly, or worse. Increasing the size of you roil tank x2 and strategizing when you buy oil (when it is at it's cheapest) may be a better solution for the next 3/5/7 years or so. Costs of electricity (increases of) must be inclusive of your overall decision making here per the same 3/5/7 year period . What standard is the dwelling at for airtightness and insulation / overall fabric quality, currently? If it's a passive house I'll stand down.

There's nothing that will stick to the aluminium tape, hence me asking you to cut in at an angle and remove the aluminium tape / create a valley in one action. Also, to answer your other question, yes you will need to prime the open surfaces of the plasterboard with 50/50 PVA/water and do that a few times until it doesn't soak in any more, then a neat coat of PVA immediately prior to fillering.

Ok, so you’ll be taping / filling aka dry lining? If so, just use the paper tape as said, filling the valley with filler first. Then sand it out. Me personally, I’d skim it. Much better job and by the time you’ve filled taped and sanded, the plaster would have been done, finished and in the pub.

What space / which room is this?

I buy OK ones off eBay for cheap enough to just change whenever a job requires a new sharp blade. Don’t forget there’s different blades for different tasks.

Can you cut this back at an angle first, with a sharp blade, so there is a valley for the filler to go into?

Yes, a lot of my clients say they've managed to date, but the issue becomes problematic when installing new equipment and expecting the warranties to be honoured. Most manufacturers will swab when there is a failure, and if the PPM is above what they accept, then bye bye warranty. Your call of course. WS's are around £600 for an entry level unit, others may have found cheaper units that they are happy with. Incoming rising main needs to be, Stopcock Double-check non return (installed immediately after stopcock) Drain off cock

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No affiliation, but I quite like this system / offering. Others are out there, but some do not "under-sling" as these do. https://springvale.com/beamshield/

Rack the outside of the roof structure with 11mm osb, then membrane, then roofing battens. Create a false ceiling internally, bridging over the purlins etc, and then install an airtight membrane right through the interior. Make the new interior surface so that the distance from OSB to membrane is 300mm, and pump the resultant void full of cellulose. It'll be quiet as a mouse when it rains, will be insulated well , and will allow you to lose the purlins (cold bridges) which can be replicated with faux timberwork for character, if so desired. This then negates tedious cutting and fitting of rigid PIR boards and near zero waste. It also means you can get rain-proof PDQ. This allows you the option to go for a more contemporary option for the interior, eg to achieve uber-flat / straight ceilings and some uniformity, again, if so desired. The caveat is you may need to cap the purlins 3 sides around with 30mm PIR to stave off cold bridging and guarantee zero interstitial condensation risk. A better end result IMO, and guaranteed airtight to boot. The battens which hold the membrane on become service voids for cables etc, and MVHR ducts can be lost in the cellulose, as long as they are kept tight to the inner 'chords'.

It doesn't need to be a steel? If you cut out the heads, inside and out, then you can easily install a pair of 6"x4" pre-stressed concrete lintels in, and max out on the headroom. You can put some compo over the top and wind them up with a Genie lift, eg so the wall plate is bedded in and firm (so no movement after the lift is removed). Defo doable, just you need a slightly more dynamic builder. Insulate between lintels and away to go. You'd gain about 325mm of additional head that way.

As long as the material that lines the reveals doesn't contact the outer leaf, the detail that you have there will be perfectly fine. Oh, and option A defo not B (minus picking up the appliance).

Ok, so what about softening the water? Should the mains not just be picking up the kitchen / utility sink and outside tap, and then go into a pressure reducing valve, and then into a softener? Is Lincolnshire water hard or soft? England and Wales Northumberland, Tyne & Wear and Lancashire down through the Midlands tend to have slightly hard to modrately hard water. Lincolnshire, the Home Counties and the south east have hard to to very hard water.

That needed a couple of reads, and I still don't feel I fully digested it!! I'll keep at it, but agree that it created a suitable and pragmatic resolve to something people thought was 'ridiculous'. 5 pints of Siler Adder in atm in my hotel, so the brain is now becoming "befuddled". Time for an early night, as some ASHP/UFH commissioning awaits me tomorrow!

Do you have a link to the reference material? Interesting topic tbh, and there’s a lot of confusion over this.

Great. Do you mind me asking which stat you ended up going with, please?

Yup. You and I are doing the same thing, just I want to be able to set up my DJ decks / amp / monitors etc and not piss the neighbours off. The walls will be decoupled 3x2 studs x2 with 50mm of acoustic between them so 2x 75mm acoustic infilled in each leaf (75+75+50 = 200mm of acoustic in the walls) and I will probably go nuts and use resilient bars or some other measure for the lower frequency sound, possibly rubber (recycled car tire) mats. However, the roof....... I'd like to use metal profile pre-insulated sheets, for simplicity, and would then overlay (internally) with 100mm of acoustic batts. Still unsure of how this would work, bu tI think I'll be ok if there are no gaps / cavities between the interior metal skin, the batts, and the room airspace. Issue is further compounded by 21 PV panels being destined to go onto the roof and me wanting to go MCS so I can sell excess (and force-discharge), meaning the fixings and structure need to 'comply'. PIR aka SIPs roofs are acoustically "shart" so beware.

I've just parted ways with a strong-minded client who stated the the idea of Heat & Chill Recovery "pleased him", but I didn't get the opportunity to tell him exactly how much of a ball-ache heat and chill recovery actually is, plus (as nothing is for nothing) just HOW MUCH heat / energy has to be created as waste, so it can be uneconomically collected an diverted elsewhere. This works well in other climates, mostly Oz and parts of the USA etc, but would do the square root of feck all in old Blighty I'm afraid. Sometimes you see a river bank with corpses of dead horses that refused to drink. @Jilly I looked into this for a client many moons ago, but the amount of energy you see as useful is actually too small to be viable to spend money on capturing and diverting.

Do you think you are going to get them any flusher-fitting than what you have already? I doubt it.

From 27 to 22 is what we call "a result". 27 must have been quite unbearable? Do you not have a means of initiating cooling automatically (via a dumb stat which monitors the upper temps) eg to facilitate a policy of prevention vs cure? You should be able to run at lower cool flow temps if this is 'grabbed' early. Why did you have to 'run' it, why didn't it run itself?

EasyRoof are another. Just be sure the panels you choose fit in the in-roof trays that you buy. There are lots of combinations that WON'T work, so beware. https://edilians.co.uk/easy-roof-evolution.html

Just install a Willis heater in the flow to the manifold(s) with manual bypass / changeover valves then? TBH if you've already a G3 requirement with the UVC then go with KISS and put the immersion in the buffer

Why not just use the factory backup heater that will be already integrated inside most decent modern ASHP's?

The concealed shower valves need to be at a very specific depth, to allow for the facias to be fix on after tiling / other. Be sure to do some YT surfing and make yourself familiar with what needs to be observed before you go jumping in. Ask lots of questions here and we'll help as much as we can