Nickfromwales

B.Regs are indiscriminate, but they're that way simply to prevent people straying from them, executing their "unique" own interpretations , and then falling onto their own ill-informed swords. You can redirect with 2x 50mm with ease. Crack on, or you won't get a sign-off. Simples.

Apologies, I missed this. I just googled the specs, and they don't make one that small, really sorry

Indeed. I'm fitting one for a current client, for this exact reason. It's a 'passive house' so will have no heating on the 1st floor, will have an electric towel warmer on 24/7, and then a small ( 600mm x 300mm ) matt white IR panel for said quick blast of heat when drying off after a shower. I am installing a Quinetic momentary push switch + non-latching receiver which will trigger a countdown timer ( 5 mins ) so after a shower it can be activated with wet hands but it cannot be left on inadvertently after exiting the room.

You'd have a great looking garage though Just have dinner in there?

Get the amount of insulation in that you want, and cover the ceiling joists ( as they're just cheap tanalised timber anyways ). Plasterboard right through, and then get some reclaimed oak sections made up and screw on these lengths to make it look like the joist ( rafter ) ends were exposed. You need markers so you can screw through these and into the covered timber, for fixing them. Recess the screw heads slightly, and make plugs to fill the screw holes. Plaster up to the faux oak timbers so you have a rustic edge ( as you'll have on the walls ) and then get yourself painted, and off to the pub. Faux beams can be made to look authentic quite easily, and would look shit-loads better than a plain ceiling in there ( IMO )

LOL

CU and breakers need to be like manufacturer, eg no mixed manufacture equipment, and stand completely alone from any other 3rd party equipment / manufacturers. It's a no from me.

Great option for anywhere you could be sat down and the heat can literally be pointed at you. Beware, as the second you move away from the field of heat you'll go stone cold instantly. The big benefit is that even in windy conditions you stay 'heated'. I've no need to tell you that they need to be on constant, but they are zero maintenance and super-convenient. Edit to add, make sure they're IP rated for outdoor use!!

If I was given them for free, let alone cost, I'd still put them on eBay and use the money to off-set the cost of installing full wet UFH. The running costs, proportional to the dwelling type accepted, will still be THE most expensive option out there. It'll be on a par with LPG!! Yes, they're 100% efficient or thereabouts, but they still need to be fed direct mains electricity on demand and have zero ability to store / offer sustain. Furniture plan will be constrained by the location of these, so "moving rooms about" goes out the window ( as these will need dedicated circuits / outlets ) and they will be adversely unsympathetic in terms of comfort as they heat what they 'hit'. Charging a constructional slab ( insulated "passive" raft ) via an ASHP from cheap rate electricity in a low energy dwelling can see your cost per kWh of heat being down as low as 5p, but the least you;ll see with direct will be the cheapest rate(s) I know of atm, which range from 22p to 35p. It's proportional as I say, but running costs / future buyers fears are the big concerns. 👎

This early on in the game you can discuss here and find where this frame is going to leak, and make a plan to mitigate against it at relatively low cost impact. Getting the ACH down to 1.0 or less, will be a very fruitful endeavour, as the closer to 3.0 you get, the worse the effectiveness of the HR element of the MVHR. Get involved, find the weak points of your chosen frame, and get your hands ( and elbows ) dirty!!

If you mean a spray head which you can use to rinse etc, then one of these types of taps may be of interest. You pull the tap nozzle and it comes out on a flexible hose. https://www.sinks.co.uk/franke-eos-neo-mono-hole-mixer-kitchen-tap-with-pull-down-spout/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAutyfBhCMARIsAMgcRJQiL_Gq0kk-a4464rEz3x_9OoZnpB89bcDDgoEqyVoX2CiJ_NgFj3EaAoH8EALw_wcB

I'm 4 IPA's in mate. You own this. The night is yours. I'll go open #5, and you work out the impact that CCA would introduce to the maths. I'll have @SteamyTea check this over and authenticate at 08:00, so use your best crayons please

Depends on how many cores you need, and how many cables you've run. One twisted pair per ferrule has been fine for everything I've done to date tbh, but I always segregate and never run signal and mains in parallel for any distance ( all squeezing through a shared transit is fine afaic ).

I use screened Cat5 and put on of the twisted pairs into a bootlace for each core ( so 4 connections per Cat5 cable over 8 cores ( 4 pair ))

You need to prime these first, or the wet tile adhesive will just reconstitute the paint and the lot will fall off. https://underfloorheating-direct.com/ultra-prime-it-multi-surface-primer-39579-p.asp?gclid=Cj0KCQiAutyfBhCMARIsAMgcRJQDAkGRyn7AGC0-kosxI8Zl65oB8HirM96KPIT0ylPVK_u1EfnNRp8aAlUFEALw_wcB 50/50 with water and apply from a bucket with a sponge, with the solution not quite running down the wall. Wait an hour, then apply neat and leave to dry. After prob an hour or two you should be good to go.

Something like this will do tbh; https://www.google.com/search?q=gypsum+adhesive&sa=X&rlz=1C1GCEA_enGB860GB860&biw=1536&bih=754&tbm=shop&ei=r933Y46xFI7VgQa0tYmoBQ&ved=0ahUKEwjOxJKTzqz9AhWOasAKHbRaAlUQ4dUDCAg&uact=5&oq=gypsum+adhesive&gs_lcp=Cgtwcm9kdWN0cy1jYxADMgcIABCABBAYMgkIABAeEPEEEBgyCAgAEAUQHhAYMgsIABAIEB4Q8QQQGDILCAAQCBAeEPEEEBgyCwgAEAgQHhDxBBAYMgsIABAIEB4Q8QQQGDILCAAQCBAeEPEEEBgyCwgAEAgQHhDxBBAYMggIABAIEB4QGDoKCAAQgAQQsAMQGDoJCAAQCBAeELADOgkIABAeELADEBg6DggAEAgQHhDxBBCwAxAYOgsIABAIEB4QsAMQGDoJCAAQDRCABBAYOgYIABAHEB46DQgAEAgQHhANEPEEEBg6CggAEAgQHhANEBg6CggAELEDEIMBEEM6CwgAEIAEELEDEIMBOgUIABCABDoLCAAQHhANEPEEEBg6CggAEAUQHhANEBhKBAhBGAFQiRtY7DVgtUFoAXAAeACAAY8BiAHTCZIBBDAuMTGYAQCgAQHIAQrAAQE&sclient=products-cc#spd=9699038899737614391

Ah, schoolboy error. You have 600mm centres so should have one stud in the centre and one each end of each board ( hence 1200mm boards ). You can get some Knauf board adhesive in tube form, loosen the board off, and bond them onto the PIR and to each other. Use a scraper and a sponge to clean up excess, and don't go mad with the adhesive.

Yup, absolutely, afaic.

It'll be of value to yourselves, as occupants. Just remember that our B.Regs in this country are absolute and total dog shite, so attaining the minimum of the minimum will yield.......... ( drumroll please ) ..........even shitter results. If this is your house, and you don't want to pull the boards back off afterwards, because the house has issues with acoustic transparency, then do it right, once, and put the thicker stuff in now

Did you tape up the Veka doors and windows? Are they 3g and rated 'airtight' or just good but regular uPVC stuff?

Ah, such a shame. I was looking for advice around getting a result of 0.31. I'll try a different thread. No bother. @Iceverge I watched the video, whats a "ceir" battery please?

On 28mm pipe you can use 25mm wall insulation and then fix with a 3" waste pipe clip, with one every 400mm. That'll keep you nice and tight to the wall so you have less woodwork to do. If no appliances, use the plinth space and run them on the floor ( unless you bought your kitchen from a meat-ball vendor ).

Good idea. Crack on. Use phenolic insulation and do NOT clip to the pipe. You need to have movement in the mechanical fixings so you don't get any creaks. Also, you do not want to clip to the pipe if using cooling, as the stalks of the clips will be condensation forming points of contact. "Go for it"

Definitely do NOT put any kind of glue under the spreader plates, particularly . Just staple the living daylights out of them and that will take you to the max potential that you will ever see. Any kind of separation will have a massive impact on surface to surface contact, and the cured glue won't transfer heat. PU is an insulator! What we try to do here, is tell you the pro's / con's / caveats, and then you can make your own, informed, decisions. You're a bit past there as you've already jumped in and done the GF UFH. What you can do now is possibly look at the most efficient ASHP for your situation, and then also size it correctly ( so it doesn't get installed, and then simply scream until it dies early ). FYI, most ASHP's will have a stated service life of 7 or ( a few ) more years. After the stated warranty / service period, you're then on borrowed time and the design of the system will dictate how hard a life / how long it is then going to last. You may benefit from a high-temp split ASHP vs a mono-block for example, but if your brother only knows how to plumb vs how to effectively design a suitable installation and specify the equipment to compliment that design, then you may need to step on the brakes and re-think this before putting good money after bad / not getting the results you think you will. Not trying to piss on your chips, just better to stop and think for 5 than steam on setting fire to time and money