Nickfromwales

+1, and I was going to also ask if the kitchen units are mounted on top of the floating wooden floor?

Nope. This will likely only need a 25a breaker and a 4.0mm2 cable. Most I can see in the spec is a bit over 20a inrush, but constant power will be 6-7a max, or lower if the heat pump is running at very low temps.

Which model is it?

Yup, looks like it. Shame really, as they deserve kudos for using that instead of scabby breeze blocks!

Do you know if there is a screed down? Do you have UFH?

Yup, but the amount of heat lost in the transfer from the pipe to the deck and then to the floor will be significant. I've not seen the job, and I've not done the calcs, but I am speaking from experience of 30 years of heating and hot water, and I say you're off to a wonky start here. The ASHP is going to be running at almost full capacity, and that will likely also attract frosting when you need it the least. The FF UFH will have wooden floorboards over it, and then (?) more finished flooring. Thermal mass here is moot, as you need to worry about getting the energy in the water inside the pipe conveyed to the room interior. That's quite a journey. The spreader plates will all need stapling up from underneath so you have as close to 100% surface contact between the plates and the deck ( floorboards ) as is humanly possible. Neglect this and you'll be retrofitting rads afterwards. Can you tell us what is under all of this? Insulation thickness ( if any ? ).

Hire a track saw, cut 25mm channels perpendicular to the joists, and drop in alu spreader plates. Pipe up, fill and test, and then apply a secondary 18mm deck atop with D4 glue and screws.

This will be very crude, and an absolute bitch to balance out IMO. For the 2 different types of emitters, and the fact they are then over 2 different floors, mandates a second manifold upstairs eg so then 2 different flow temps are possible. You 5 million % need room stats and actuators and then each space can keep calling for heat as long as it needs to ( maybe after others have reached the set point and have closed off ). Don't worry about cycling the ASHP as you will also defo be fitting at least a 100L buffer tank, for this type of dwelling and with the type of system you have fitted / intend to fit. You underestimate, I think how much hotter the 1st floor system will have to run to do the same job as the ground floor one, so sending one temp via one manifold will be a recipe for major disappointment, sorry. Air rises, so a GF manifold serving FF UFH is an air trap waiting to happen. Unless this house is super insulated and very draft-proof then I fear this system may fail to meet your hopes and expectations. Do some heat loss calculations and revisit before taking one more step is my advice.

W-I-W defo an extract, if sizeable. If a big wardrobe, prob nothing required / necessary tbh. Who's design are you working to? BCO will demand one in the utility regardless. Hall? I did the same in a project in Oxford were we installed an AHU after the MVHR, and introduced fresh ( cooled / tempered air in at the foot of the stairs and extracted stale air at the head of the vaulted landing seating area ). MVHR on it's own will do little to nothing there, unless boost rates are used in the peak of the summer months but will still only scratch the surface of moving stale warm air.

"Never let the bastards grind you down"

With todays energy prices ( and future ) I'd take that statement with a pinch of salt, sorry. I often suggest sand blinding > 25mm sacrificial EPS > DPM > 100mm EPS > 100mm PIR if the depth is there without £££'s, but same can be achieved with 150mm of PIR. IIRC 140mm is B.B.Regs for a heated slab, but I haven't slept much this week. The maths are further impacted on whether it's being heated by oil / LPG vs a well matched heat pump

You can reduce to 2x 50mm pipes and rise to the attic, or 3x 40mm ditto, or 4 x 32mm ditto. They can be hidden in a stud wall and will have the capacity to deal with the same volume that the 110mm AAV provided. I would, at that stage, also install the mini AAV on the basin ( anti-siphon trap ) to further help out. Fitter #2 is wrong, and is using "wishful thinking", as there is no way that the 32mm anti-siphon trap is man enough to do the same job. The AAV is tiny on one of those. I've been redirecting SVP's to AAV's like this for a couple of decades, works fine and BCO have never said a word against it. Use compression AAV's not solvent weld as these do fail now and then. They must be accessible to, so factor that in when relocating them.

Yup, 10 pos and 10 neg iirc.

You still test room by room, but with the whole house pressurised. You're not looking to replicate Michael Jackson's "oxygen tent of eternity", so going full bore in each room may be a bit OTT? All I need now is somebody cleverer than me to tell me how to gauge the ACH from the DIY rig. The winner gets a half-eaten Greggs steak bake. Only been in the van for 2 days, still good.

Solar farm?

I believe you only install the "blower" into a front, side / rear doorway and thus pressurise the whole house. Are you thinking of doing room by room?

Maybe... https://www.toolstation.com/smoke-pellets/p38123?store=W8&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dc&pcrid=&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=CjwKCAiAl9efBhAkEiwA4ToriuY-AcXOHK9G3nIStFhy-s13nL9thMMcGEGfjru1uSsANb6VERbOiRoCe8oQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds These burn / output smoke for a good while, but you need to see if they'll kill you ( or not )

Use a builders flexi-tub bucket? Wedge that into the hole and tape, then push the fan into the bucket until snug. Cut the bottom completely flush / out of the bucket, of course!

search on here, someone else was doing this with a car radiator fan jobby from a scrapyard.

I would strongly advise employing an AT testing company who agree to stay on site for an hour or two whilst you locate / cure / re-try. AT is the key to cheap heating bills and maximising the RoI from you MVHR. AT is a far better bang for your buck than insulation, IMO, as ventilation heat loss is a killer vs fabric heat loss. Go at this with all you have is my advice, and get sub 1.0ACH or better. I'm now going to get myself a DIY rig as suggested by others here, so I can perform my own "day of plugging / testing" on my clients behalf, eg before employing a 4rd party to come and test and issue a cert. Seems the best money my clients could spend, and is already going down well when I suggest it.

Or his neighbours will think he's finally, completely lost it, and is pretending to be a police helicopter...

Simple. The stat in the immersion reaches the set point, and bingo, no more input goes to the immersion and export kicks back in at full wallop. Shut off the power to the immersion, whip the lid off, and post a pic of the settings on the stat head please.

I get all of mine done with my PV partner, so I know they're kosher / MCS compliant etc. No experience of any of the solar packages myself, but loads on here have used them I believe.

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Yup. Someone had to wash your filthy mouth out Shouldn't you be doing unpaid work in the community right now? Off you go. Chop, chop!! 👉