Nickfromwales

Even with the cheap-skates.

We make very special allowances for some.

I've got Geberit products which have been installed on clients builds, kids and all, and never once have any of these products failed. And I mean not ONCE. Poor fitting / installer error is often the culprit.

Far better option AFAIC and saves on precious GIA. I thought closer to 13o? I would not want the entirety of the basement concrete to be at exactly that temp and then to have to try to mitigate retrospectively / internally. Seems a no-brainer to dig a bit wider and drop 200/300mm of EPS around / underneath. At depths of 2m and more, the ground temperature does not deviate very much from the average summer/winter surface temperatures (around 8° to 12°C [46ºF to 54ºF] in the UK depending on location). At this depth, there is an enormous store of heat that can be usefully tapped for heating in the winter.

Possibly just taken out of context / worded 'poorly'? Some written comms here are difficult to decipherer with some folk opening mouths seemingly just to change feet, (I think I actually invented Foot & Mouth tbh because of doing so "more than once") but things aren't very often meant in a bad way on here. Seems we have a reasonably decent bunch in residence.

Go EPS-based for sure. Woodcrete = PITA.

2-port buffer all day long, and then you can lose a pump.

Also, no guarantees that the render won't pop, even with a diamond drill.

Bingo. My bad, was typing and drinking. 🍺

No, prob a ban would cut down the workload.

@Sophiae If you make any blunder posts, just 'report' it and a member of staff will pick it up ASAP

Done.

The main problem is that novice DIY'ers just don't ask the questions they need to, when they need to. I've just been detailing a window and door installation for a client and the window fitter wanted to frame-fix everything. Let's just say that he is now using the correct manufacturer-specified fixings, and they're not being fixed within 20mm of the face of the ICF core!! Client pays me to oversee / act as a sounding board for whatever he doesn't know, and we can (usually) iron out these creases whilst the job is still on paper. A quick sketch from your builder would have shown the sections and you could have then said "STOP", and then done a re-work. Steel beams deflect, and the sliders themselves will expand, so that is another important detail, but this does sound OTT, listening from afar.

Why not just stitch drill it like I do? Use a 4mm sds bit and go around the hole drilling each about 10mm apart. Go to a 5.5m and then a 7mm and a couple of taps with a hammer and 'Bob's your uncle, and Fanny's your aunt'! Start drilling now, and you'll be in the pub by 1

Yup. Those electrical items won't just pay for themselves!! Just pull the trigger and have a nice shower, you tight arse, as you can't take it with you.

Select button for spray options Prob best to ask them by email, if this is pattern & flow rate, or just pattern at a set flow rate. You can make a fast shower go slow, it's called "not turning the knob all of the way to max" . Pretty simple stuff, eh

A means to an end, is what that option is Carry on, as these are 1000% worth every ounce of your time and effort. ”If it was easy……..”

You slot them in from underneath once the hole is cut, and then you screw up through the plasterboard and into the metal tabs

Tres bien.

£70 is a good price. What were you expecting to pay when the petrol service station looking ones are a couple of those 7 tenners or more! Do you have a link to what you’ve seen? I’m spec’ing these for all my projects, the regular ones have never sat well with me, and my clients agree. Plaster in ones ( round and linear ) are just wonderful looking things by comparison. Lemonade job = a couple of tenners. Champagne job = ‘more’

Natural spring. “Peckham Spring” relaunch opportunities here I think! Either that or there is a significant leak from a water mains nearby.

Must have been a poor installer? I’ve fitted loads of Ideal logics, mostly combis, great little boilers. If you have attic space, then I’d look at putting the combi in the attic and as central as possible. Leaks come from old knackered plumbing or equipment, or poor workmanship. Don’t write off anything going up there, as it’s a neat solution we often went to, to preserve space in smaller homes.

There's a huge difference between being a sparky, and working with sparkies under their supervision. From what's on display I imagine he undertakes smaller / simpler stuff, so agree this is just probably technically beyond his comfort zone. One thing that worries me is that he's clearly out of date ( by a long long time ) with regs / legislation, so he really shouldn't be doing this for anyone at any price ( not even for free ). The circuits need pulling out of the boards, the boards need replacing with a suitable double-decker CU, and each circuit needs to be tested before being made off into the new CU. Do that, methodically and meticulously, and then you'll find any circuits which are suspect / fail insulation resistance and earth continuity etc, and then problem finding can be narrowed down quickly and economically. As a man once said "it could be worse", so continue with the glass half full and keep your chin up

Prob just best to get your mate / friend in, put the kettle on, and tell him it's time to admit defeat. If I showed this to my sparky, he would go and yank the main fuse and lend you some AA's for your torch.

No. That's the perspective of the photo. The two browns are in the MCB.