Nickfromwales

It's not limited to these couple Digression makes up around 39% of the content here I reckon

If you are topping up daily, you need to stop doing so. Use the immersion for hot water and find the leak. Your installer is avoiding the elephant in the room, eg where the feck is all the water going? You can start investigations by isolating one UFH loop at a time, re-pressurise, and check the pressure 24 hrs later. When you stop seeing the drop, you've found the offending loop. If you go through them all with no change, the leak is elsewhere. Can you see evidence of a leak anywhere?

Not AFAIK, as it isn't a home?! The arrangement I've recommended is basically mechanically fixed extension leads, and nothing more. Non-habitable space, storage only, so regs is moot? An electrician would just be signing off the power where it's been chopped in to, and the downstream CU to the 2x 32a sockets. That's where the electrician will get in their van and drive away, leaving behind a fully compliant installation, for extension leads to be plugged into.

Excellent electrical advice there gents FFS. 🙄

Unless I am mistaken, this is a follow on question from the members previous gripes about work going on next door to him? @greenbanana As above, can you answer please?

The manufacturers literature will tell you what PPM of hardness the unit can tolerate before defunking the warranty.

Hi. I've done conversions from gravity / pumped digital over to non-pumped where we've either fitted an UVC or a combi. It's simply a case of either having or not having the pump set for the digital shower, so you will only have a nice quiet digital "mixer" to go with your setup. All good, but remember that you can get al all exposed / surface mixer shower which will take a hot and cold feed, and have zero electromechanical / moving parts to fail. The digitals showers seem to be reliable, as long as you stick to the big names. Down to choice, but I personally don't see the value of introducing a digital mixer other than for the look / being able to switch it on from the bedside. The answer is, it'll be nice and quiet, so yes, digital + combi will get you what you're after.

Yes, really. I shall stand firm, sorry! A shipping container will deter all but the most determined of fcuktard, and if anyone who is beyond their pay-grade is interested, then the bounty would have to be of interest. Your average scrote won’t look twice at a steel container, and will actively seek wooden sheds or structures with windows. So, “No”.

Whose excavation / trench is it?

I guess it's about security / safety as a steel container is a tough nut for scrotes to crack. A timber structure can be popped open in seconds by comparison, and this is even more relevant if it's an isolated and sometimes vacant location.

This is, of course, important IF anyone actually gives a shit

Most containers have 32a C-form 'plugs' LINK mounted on the outside, and then you just have a panel socket LINK on the outside of the kiosk. Make a 32a flying / aka extension lead to go from the supply / kiosk to the container, a-la how caravan's hook up for a 2-week stay and want 230v. Have 1x 32a for some power sockets, and off that 32a radial / socket arrangement inside the container you just fit a 13a switched fused spur and use that for your light feed and switch, with a 5a fuse installed. Then just have 1x 32a additional for plugging in the welder, so all you need is a CU with 1x isolator and 2x 32a RCBO's and you're cooking on gas. Or electric.

Doesn't need to be a concrete pad, as long as the kiosk is mechanically fixed to the container it'll be fine.

Yup. Just need SWA ( Steel Wire Armoured ) cables between the 2 boxes for mechanical protection. Jump on this and arrange your own courier https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204287508809?hash=item2f907c0149%3Ag%3AzWcAAOSwj5VkIvAC&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4O9HEkOOHmUD3FgZnoQgX2Nxb%2BzpfmjaXdpjonYNDU1YDY1Q6E65xkmGtYaSfaYj7wTp%2FPGD2iwIzSu6ug12p0qKHNYBujKSOFegxOXgpLL%2FCcuYX%2Bx8kOlFe6l%2FWO4N9b445d4Z0%2BR8iRTMASHpSFjtVLZBRneFWreI6tuO99Wavna7ioG3E2Cqib3QdRNj1hdanH1DncrRE%2FxqE9uQnSx5%2BVztSss8G0FS4AsuuNf0MvrnZG2YZ7pmrBnslaIjlLmbz%2BlksgdGFgdpi0oL2Keux%2FYA3KG2M3eDXl5DAtc5|tkp%3ABk9SR8jR0eLsYQ&LH_ItemCondition=4

Right here Can even be a coin meter LINK if your "landlady" would prefer. She just empties this weekly / monthly etc. So, from the existing "unit meter" tails, your electrician needs to cut these tails and install some Henley aka service blocks LINK to allow you to piggy-back onto the landlady's metered supply. Then you take 2x meter tails ( PVC / PVC ) to a switch fuse, and take that with tails to the second meter. Job done, and fully compliant. Earth will be in an MET ( main earth terminal ) already I expect, so your supply earth comes from that and connects to the earth bar in your new CU. It may be a squeeze, but you could just fit a small CU inside the meter box and run your feeds from there, or just buy and install another meter box directly below this one ( may be a problem as your landlady doesn't own the pole so would be at your own risk adding anything to that ) and have a larger CU inside that. You can use the extra real-estate to mount a 32a commando ( blue outdoor socket ) to the outside of the meter box, and do the same for a 16a one, and just plug yourself into those ( if a bit cheaper and you're happy to plug in / out when there / away? Nothing stopping you driving a pole / other into the ground and mounting another meter box onto that, immediately adjacent. Just may be way cheaper this way, if you're happy for a 'camping style' setup vs a hard install?

A ok as long as it's non-commercial.

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/RDCRED100.html?source=adwords&ad_position=&ad_id=&placement=&kw=&network=x&matchtype=&ad_type=pla&product_id=RDCRED100&product_partition_id=&campaign=shopping&version=finalurl_v3&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxMmhBhDJARIsANFGOSvpLoLPEzbKVhPjM3GurrXahFh5UcJ1i8icOt2PMmv8-AKm2_zqxGIaAtrHEALw_wcB

Was this for all surface mounted conduit etc? If so, it's quite a bit of work, and trades atm seem to be thin on the ground and their prices seem to have 'elevated' somewhat recently. What about getting a landlord meter and paying monthly to the person who owns the existing supply? That would be cheap and simple, and I assume there is at least an 80a fuse in that meter box so splitting with tails and feeding yours and their meter is easy and suffice for your needs. You'd need to reduce to a 40a switch-fuse, so you know that you won't wipe out their supply and yours in an event of a catastrophic failure on your equipment. RCBO's will of course hugely reduce that potential problem, but best to not rub them up the wrong way if they're good enough to agree to selling you your power and save you the cost of a new connection. All dependant on how long you wish to ( can ) keep this unit / location? If only sporadically welding, maybe look at a petrol / diesel weld set?

I use these a lot, but the transformer does need some room. The fitting itself is great, and sits in the thickness of the plastered plasterboard, so can span joists etc. https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/4574883-4w-led-downlight-neutral-white-4000k?gclid=Cj0KCQjwocShBhCOARIsAFVYq0gksXEWnigiRIZLYBRXTilqjSoTipTMBPcQpeBzoMVTPSGjwCORsewaAmyJEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Disclaimer : I have been drinking since 6pm so the brain is starting to get a bit wonky. Maybe a spectator sport from herein for me tonight. I'll edit this out tomorrow, and it'll be like it never happened Fullers "London Pride". Says "outstanding" on the bottle, and I damn-well agree. Just using it atm to wash down half a tub of Ben & Jerry's Choc Fudge ice cream. "Happy times".

Base it on facts, not instinct!!!!! Size of door at each opening, gap at each side, thickness of your chosen ( intended ) lining etc. Just beware that not installing the linings, and then plastering, will leave quite severe undulations from the floor to the head of the frame, and when you go to measure up and install the linings, you'll need to have measured the thickest part ( plastered surface > plastered surface ) to ascertain the absolute, correct size. Most builders seem to forget this, and then the architraves and skirtings never line up properly.

Where is the PRV ( pressure relief valve ) located? And where does it discharge? It may be part of the group where the topping up aka filling loop is mounted ( as these usually are made up of a filling loop / pressure gauge / PRV / EV as a "pressurisation" kit. Topping up daily shows a huge problem / leak. I'd say one loop is leaking ( without first knowing if the PRV is passing ( allowing water to escape )).

Ok. I assume you mean the system pressure, indicated on the gauge at the filling loop ( the bit you use to top it up ) keeps returning to zero and not the pre-charge in the gas side of the expansion vessel? This is probably not how things are. Does the water enter into the bottom of the expansion vessel ( EV )? Is it mounted vertically?

Internal walls aren't "structural" per-se, so you wouldn't be factoring in deflection etc. Are you referring to all internal work here?

It's not sounding very positive atm, is it? Especially after reading the previous post. There's holding out hope, and then there's;