Nickfromwales

Yup. How thick is the final wall covering? Parge then dot & dab a plasterboard on, or full wet coats to a paintable finish?

I always thought that mineral wool would convey / bridge damp.

Parge first, as nothing will stick to the pores of the raw block face. Then you brush apply something like Passive Purple (liquid airtightness membrane) and leave to dry. Then you can tape to that. You may just as well brush on the thicker (non-sprayable) stuff as your airtightness tbh, as you can push the brush down into the internal angle where the wall and floor meet, plus it’ll stick to most stuff too.

I'm just wondering if you could have these units split, so the MVHR stand alone, and then the heat cool unit as a bolt-on. Would give better results I think, plus much better redundancy.

But very good at knocking that on the head right at that location.

If the combi was a retro fit then there may be a 22mm hot pipe there to tag the UVC on, and do as I just suggested above. The Caleffi valve does what you state, but it's a few hundred pounds. I used to fit them to the Sunamps / Therminos so they could pre-heat any combi. Some manufacturers capped incoming temp at 25oC, others 30oC, and some just stated chuck in what you like! The downside to tempering at that low a temp is that you get very little reward from what will be a 4-figure upheaval. Going to a system boiler config and taking the water from the UVC > outlets will give the highest rewards for the lowest outlay. You can get most sizes with dual immersion, but the smaller you go the more likelihood there could only be 1x installed due to space limitations inside the vessel. At 210 - 250L I think dual immersion will be fine. Ask Trevor at cylinders2go and mention my username and the forum and he will look after you with a good price on the cylinder.

OK. You can turn the existing combi into a system boiler by adding 2-port zone valves to the CH output of the boiler. One goes to space heating (CH) and the other would heat an UVC. The DHW output of the combi would just get redirected to the least / shortest run outlet in the house, cloakroom WC for eg, and then the rest of the house comes off the UVC. Then you'll have much better showers, and somewhere to dump your solar excess. Probably a 150L to 180L cylinder would suffice, as gas re-heats an UVC PDQ

Lol. I must stop reading whilst on the phone Ah, ok. Are the duct heaters only upstairs?

They only float if it is a liquid screed that's seeped under. Dry screeds or Flowcrete won't be anywhere near as problematic.

Ouch. 4 years is a bloody short lifespan!! I'd review what you ask this to do, and reconsider some auxiliary space heating, maybe from A2A so you have some A/C too? At least you'll still have the benefits of a heat pump, but something is either wrong with the design and execution or the equipment was crap. I take it this is a passive house and there is no wet UFH?

We do these things because we can.

Yup. I'll end up with a few fragmented arrays feeding into 2 strings, so I will defo be going wither 2 panels 1 Tigo, or if I can get a trade deal 1 for 1. I don't have much tech in my life tbh, so this will "please me", and I am happy to pay for that, regardless. Prob add less than a grand all up, including monitoring. Less if I can go dual.

LOL

It's the brick-layer that keeps the cavity clean Plus the batts do not fully fil the void so crap will still fall down it if there's poor house-keeping on site. Most decent builders don't let too many snots / debris get into the bottom of the cavity, but the cavity often goes substantially lower than DPC to allow for some crap to go down and collect.

Your time will come.

You can buy a dual Tigo which does 2 panels with one device.

Cheap isn't free is it You're also missing a trick here. I'd do nothing until V2G comes to life, and dump all this money and effort into an EV. You'll then have nigh-on 100% self-consumption and the house then plugs into the car. For your situation, and the amount of PV you have, an EV with V2G and no domestic battery is the money shot (subject to you being able to afford one of the smaller bi-directional EV's when the time comes). Or you install batteries now, use them for the decade or so you'll get before they snuff it, and THEN go EV on V2G and not replace the domestic batteries. Can't you swap the car to a used hybrid? That would make bucket-loads of sense right now.

Sounds sensible, all good! The flood risk survey will likely be required for insurances also, so 2 birds with 1 stone there.

ToughButterCup Members 10.3k Location: Junction 33 M6 Posted February 2, 2021 · IP Yes, @FM2015, woodcrete ( the generic name for Durisol I take it?) is leaky and does allow water into it, unless covered up properly In terms of water tightness, Durisol - on its own - is a bit like a Land Rover 90 : water leaks out of it as fast as it leaked in in the first place. If you don't control ingress - water is on its way in. I have a small Piggery (now used as a wash-house and store) which has no cladding or water ingress control at all. It shows some evidence of damp having been there, but for a utility room its fine. Cover it with Cloeber Permo Forte Quattro and some nice open cladding and the problem will disappear. Well, it has in the main house. In terms of air tightness, I think I have slipped up: better said, not had the bandwidth to focus on that issue as closely as I would have liked. Time will tell. My office (where I am now) is in part of the house where there is no outside or inside parging or plastering. I can actually feel the draft when the wind is in the right direction. No water ever gets to the office wall because it's under a large canopy (5m by 3m) . But the wind does whistle in. Leave the room, shut the door, and the rest of the house (fully parged and plastered) is stiller, warmer, quieter. Sucking my teeth about the air test......?

Hi. You can lose at least 30mm of concrete (assuming a steel reinforcing mesh will be utilised) but the PIR is on the limit. How much thickness have you allowed for type 1 and sand?

Hi. How long had the system been in and running for, before it gave up the ghost? I think it would be prudent to rule out poor system design (overworking the unit(s)) before suggesting you replace like for like with a modern / alternate product.

As stated by others, there's a fair amount of recoverable energy from air (or water) at 0oC, so 6oC is defo worth further exploration afaic. If the water is fast flowing then even more reason to go for that. I have to tell you to make sure that you apply for an abstraction license, or at least ask if you need one, or i'll risk getting pulled over failing to do so.

Yup. The AV guy on one site was looking at me in disbelief when I suggested using 2-core flex for the speakers. The fact that I'd wired up many night-clubs / colleges etc previously, whilst working for established sound installation companies who used nothing other than that type of cable for decades, wasn't something/I felt he would appreciate. The cable he got the OP to buy was £tear-inducing. Doubt you'd actually hear the difference over short runs tbf.

All I need is dumb, proportional output. I'll have a look to see if it's a single or dual 'channel' as per the Eddi.

Thanks. I'll have a look at those for my house if the price is better.