Nickfromwales

Not to be pedantic, but everything you've just said is completely true of an standard UVC, minus pumps / flow switches / plate heat exchangers and the huge losses they promote, other than they heat quickly ( as they're not off-setting those losses and are purely pumping heat into the cylinder only ), and heated water is always "instant". This is reinventing the wheel, but making it more 50p shape so it is 'unique'. FYI a 300L UVC typically has 2x immersions for heating directly from electricity, and only indirect models have 1.

It gives more energy per m2 but is just a ball-ache and a one-trick pony. In summer it just gives you stupid amounts of excess heat energy which you then either cannot use, or you have to run a pump to dump it to a heat loss radiator. Still cannot get over how many new builds have a mix of PV and ST on the roof!!!

With cold mains they pass. But yes, direction of flow should be observed to not damage the flow gauges.. Poster stated they have non return valves, which they don't.

I've never seen a manifold with non return valves. Do you have them on yours? Not had one on any manifold I've ever fitted, over the last couple of decades, just flow gauges and the attenuators where the actuators connect to switch each loop on / off.

Infill the web of the steel with rigid insulation and then affix timber over that. If you attach the wood to the steel you'll transfer a big cold bridge to the back of the plasterboard, undoing all your hard work. I would simply use 3x2 timbers to span horizontally between each vertical 2x2 ( the ones either side of each opening ) screwing sideways into the ends of the 3x2. Have one at the lowest point ( the head of the window where the plasterboard will go ) and another at ceiling height, but the one at the ceiling can also be noggin'd to affix to the 1st floor joists. That will fully secure the upper one(s) and then the lower one, which will have some movement, gets its rigidity from the plasterboard that form the head of the opening reveal ( head ). That will be insulated plasterboard which you would bond on to the underside of each lintel ( as you really do not want to have bare plasterboard affixed to the steel around the window reveals at all. Around each door / window opening will be where you have no scope for thick insulation, so perhaps look at bonding 20mm Compacfoam to the heads and reveals and then bonding plasterboard to that ( if you want to avoid having cold / damp / mould regrow in these areas ). The risk you have here is making nicer warmer walls on the main runs, but then having adversely cold sections where you need them the least, as around the windows / reveals will be naturally colder already. Fill any gaps between plasterboard and block / steel of the reveals with Illbruck 330 foam, which won't bridge damp and is airtight ( closed cell ) so is great at draft-proofing also. It would be a shame to go to all the effort and then still have these issues around each opening Plan ahead and do the job once, and well

https://www.planningportal.co.uk/permission/common-projects/outbuildings/planning-permission "No more than half the area of land around the "original house"* would be covered by additions or other buildings."

Here are some good threads, Have a read through those and see what questions remain. .

That will be very expensive to run, and quite crude. If you do an insulated raft and install UFH you can heat the place for pennies, long-term. The cost of running crude IR panels will soon add up. Electric UTH and towel rads in bathrooms is fine, but space heating from IR panels is the last thing I'd ever recommend for any of my clients. Zero sustain, no medium to load-shift, and they heat what they hit, literally, so you'd need multiples of smaller units to spread out heat. The surface temps are also very occupant-unfriendly, and not good for children.

The Thermino is a Sunamp, rebranded, eg the same device from the same people. I'm not a fan of the Mixergy tanks, too much complication / faff / additional components / additional heat loss from the PHE / cost of running and replacing the pump and so on. For DHW, simply follow the KISS rule. Adding a second low slung immersion in a well-insulated UVC is all you'll ever need, and you wont ever convince me otherwise. Just an unnecessary over-complicated re-invention of an already time-proven wheel.

You'll probably just have to make this up with cement, and bench it in. Prob best at the height of summer when the ground is driest.

It'll be down to the settings / commissioning. The heat-pump clearly has permission to work harder for DHW, so it could be given the same permissions for CH too I assume. The curve for the CH operation may also be set too low, so a bunch of options are probably open to you here.

Ok, yes, most much of a muchness tbh. Just look at stainless steel for longevity. You may get a good price for Solarwatt PV panels then lol.

If you want to buy a cylinder, contact Trevor from cylinders2go and mention my username and the forum for a discount . He can price you for an additional immersion too. Many on here have bought from him ( Telford cylinders ) and the stainless steel ones have a lifetime warranty. Their all I have fitted for over 20 years, with zero issues, ever.

Not quite. What I was saying is that if you have lots of excess one day and not the next, you'll will have stored as much as you possibly can each day and have some 'spare' capacity to see you through. Quite coarse 'maths' here as I'm flying blind . All cylinders will come with an immersion, but you may benefit from adding a second one, by choice, so the PV can be fed in as low down in the cylinder as possible, eg to heat the whole tank with any excess. With a large tank, the PV will be topping you up vs hating you from cold, and heating from cold ( recovery ) is a big ask, whereas topping you up is a doddle.

Could you elaborate? A pv design will work out your net generation vs known self-consumption ( base loads ) from your bills. The excess ( what % is deemed as export ) will go towards hot water via immersion. Most of my clients have completely free hot water for at least 6 months of the year, so the boiler 'hibernates' for summer.

Storing more on a sunny day, where you may not then have such a sunny day the next. These are assumptions, as I don't know how big a PV array you'll adopt, but with the bigger tank, you then have the gs boiler only heating it to 55oC which makes a big difference in the amount of waste / latent heat loss per hour.

Are you considering solar PV instead of solar thermal? I've been in the heating and hot water industry for over 3 decades, and if I was given a solar thermal system for free, and could fit it myself, I'd sell it to someone and use the money to buy solar PV. Your hot water use is low, but you're electricity costs are going north, so I would, personally, go with PV here and save yourself a lot of money long-term. Excess solar PV in summer will give you free hot water via the immersion, so your gas consumption in winter will be off-set by how "energy rich" the solar PV makes you in the 'sunny times' of the year. If you go with PV, I would go with the bigger cylinder, but if you're sticking with gas then 180L should be the biggest you need.

The upper edge of a standard UK basin rim is 820-830mm from FFL. A kitchen worktop surface is around 900-915mm off FFL. A counter-top for a 150mm deep sit-on basin "bowl" should be no more than 700mm from FFL afaic?

A google search of images of these seems to show the spout outlet at around 150mm off the top of the bowl, so if you're referring to the height of the centre of the spout before the spout turns downwards, then I'd say you're about right.

You can go for a dual string inverter and put E in one input and W in the other, without optimising, as long as there’s zero shading.

I'm going E/W split for the majority of mine, with prob 30-40% of the array(s) getting true S sunshine ( irradiance ). Should give me a long steady solar day. I've decided on an E/W 25 degree apex for the pergola / shed at the top of my garden, with 10x400w E and 10x 400w W, plus then around 12 panels S-ish on my gazebo roof. Should see up to 4kW from E, then up to 4kW S then up to 6kW late afternoon to evening. Btteries are going in from the get-go, and just about to order them, plus a chunky hybrid inverter. Eventually I'll put another 10 on the E roof and another 10 on the W roof, and aim to provide a lot of space heating from A2A during the winter. 🤞 A machine plus driver will get the job done very quickly without damage. It also needs some thought as to spoil and residual useable manoeuvring spaces which is gained by experience only. Liability resides with them then also. You may have to get separate insurance for the machine also. Check it all out properly first

Can you get this to 15 or 20? Would make a huge difference and also then the panels would be deemed "self-cleaning". Below 12 and you typically have to mechanically clean these periodically, then they're not 'maintenance free'.

lol. All good

Yup.

Run the 10mm W/C hot from the 22mm pipe All good otherwise.