Nickfromwales

Shows are every other night, and twice on the weekend.

Velfac prob next rung up the ladder tbh. Give Simon Chadwick of SMC a ring on 07862 737026 and ask him for prices / recommendations if you like. Mention my username and he will look after you. Great guy, and currently supporting my company with a PH project. Came highly recommended from Velfac / Rational head office, but installs, or will supply/install, most makes of doors and windows at your request.

bends formed in the duct, or mechanical bends?

Is that a heat pump or resistance heater?

I think, ( judging by the house we're currently re-installing the badly fitted PH windows and doors back into ), they are Rational. GBS also use Ideal Combi a lot too.

Choose where you'd want absolute silence ( yes, ideally everywhere ) and run 2x 92mm ducts. Consider which rooms would be adversely impacted by the increased airflow & audibility, when the system is boosting, and plan around that.

In lesser quantities then in-house 'pardons', apparently.

PMSL. That typo is staying for all eternity. ffs 🤣 I shall call on an expert.......AH!, here's one. Yup. And then help yourself to as much cheese as you like whilst waiting for the system to warm up again.

Might be a good idea to turn the 2 isolation taps off first....LOL. Turn the 2 isolation taps 1/4 turn to the off position, firmly shut, and get an old towel at the ready. Under the mag filter should be a drain off ( maybe not but have a look ). After turning off, and hopefully draining vis the sump, unscrew the lid and remove. Withdraw the magnet from the assembly and clean the plastic shaft of debris. Keep the magnet away from anything you like / is sensitive to magnetic fields ( like your wallet / cards etc ). Reinsert the magnet into the lid / pot aperture and put it safely to one side. With the filter now empty, reinstall the mag / internals as you found them, and fill up the vessel with the leak sealer chemical, until full to the brim. Screw the lid on until as hand tight as you can, and then give it a final 1/4 turn or less with the filter spanner. Reopen the Stilton vales and run the heating. DO NOT vent the filter as you'll just let the chemical out. Run the heating for 4 hours and then repeat so you can get the rest of the chemical in ( as you can't get a full 1L in in one go ). Happy days.

I’ll get my coat. 😭

To add: With your floors, you will of course not be able to fully fill the spaces. but you’ll be able to install 50-60mm of fixed rigid PIR without issue. Use the highest performing product you can. If you wish to go further, then you can remove the floorboards and put strips of 20mm Compacfoam on top of each joist, to arrest the repeat cold bridging. Then use 75mm rigid insulation, with the top of that being left flush with the too of the Compacfoam. That will leave you a 45mm void underneath, where each supporting pier is, for through ventilation.

I can’t show you mine, I took one look, swore several times, and put the boards back down. Mine will get completely dug out, insulated, concreted with mesh and UFH pipes, and the internal walls rebuilt. I’ve worked in the construction industry for 3 decades so am speaking about your job from experience. If each of your gaps between joists were the ventilated spaces, you’d need an air brick for each void, so the house would collapse. Your air bricks will feed down into the void / underbelly and in-filling between the joists will be perfectly fine, as long as the insulation doesn’t completely foul the air bricks and their path to the remainder of the ventilated void.

Any MCS job will immediately go onto permanent record with the MCS. They’ll just type in your address and say yup or nope. End of. If you can prove your AC coupled equipment is on the approved list ( so could be MCS approved ) then they should just let you get paid for export, afaic.

The gaps UNDER the joists forms your ventilated space, and not the gaps in between them

Are your internal walls sat on top of the floorboards? This was done with great wisdom by our forefarters 2 stories of brick wall with the upstairs joists spanning it from 2 rooms, all on top of the floorboards and the ( now diminishing ) 4” timbers on dwarf walls ( with failed “damp proof” slates lol ) at mine ffs What the hell were they thinking ?!

Pressure has nowt to do with modulation. I expect the boiler is going higher than normal to get you back up to the regular ambient temperature. Wait until tomorrow, and check again. Do you have a magnetic filter? You can dose via that DIY with ease.

An odd ethic. I'd prefer money to go into my bank and then stay there. Pylontech are difficult for ongoing soft / firmware updates also, so I'm offering advice based on experiences from installers in the industry whom I lean on for support for my own clients projects. You get bronze, silver and gold standards with anything, but these are chrome plated plastic. These fail the same way my Makita 18v cordless power tool batteries do, with an unbalanced charged pack. Which usually gets calculated by adding together cost, longevity, reliability etc aka "value for money" vs "cheapest ones I can get, regardless". Value is perceived differently by different folk, as always. Except the owners of the FUBAR one in that thread, and his fellow 'less than OK' customers with similar issues, plus the ones who cannot get any firmware updates, and so on.

Hi @bullishbroker24 and welcome. You should look for batteries where the entire pack is "balanced", as they are not in those batteries ( these are cheap batteries for a reason ) Similar looking 'rack mount' batteries in this thread, which I currently have on the table in my list of battery options. But these are balanced. Have a quick read. Also, are you really going to be able to charge AND DISCHARGE 20kWh every 24hrs? Sounds like a LOT of storage to me?

🙄 @jack Do try and keep up, please @Sparrowhawk Do try and keep up, please 🤣

Yup, you've just found it Welcome aboard! I've always used box attenuators for silencing, plus I'm always over-generous with duct runs ( doubling-up where others would run a single ) and I've ALWAYS been an advocate of installing the next size up unit vs what is required. I've used one cheap bag of shit from EsaveP which was a boat anchor, and then went to Brink ( which are Passivhaus certified ) and haven't looked back. If a job needed a 325 ( with 160mm connections ) I would simply jump to the 400 ( with 180mm connections ) so I could reduce the fan speed for the same duty. My clients have always, without exception, reported that the units run absolutely silently and still maintain excellent air quality / function very well. As said, the best equipment can be installed poorly ( mostly through lack of mitigation by design ) so choose well when making the final selection. And yes, salesman will always say theirs is the best one. That's been happening for centuries

In that case I’d prob look at a 10a RCBO in the CU for each floor of lighting, plus another for outside / landscape, and then use din rail mounted 2a or 4a MCB’s to feed each lighting device. I’m not familiar with much HA stuff tbh, as I only ever hear of it failing ( so have been avoiding it, unless the client has demanded it be brought in ). I’ve always delegated or asked ( told ) the client to get a 3rd party HA contractor in and that we’d work with them.

I install HRC's on 95% of my turnkey M&E installs, so yup. You just need to insulate the hot and the hot return VERY well. Lots on here about how to control them, with my favourite being via PIR / occupancy sensors in each bathroom etc.

I do that for most clients, but occasionally, if the topology lends itself, I will go through the slab ( insulation layer ). Eg on my current one at Gravenhill I am doing this with the kitchen sink so I can avoid having to install a hot recirculation system. I just needs a lot of thought and coordination, and sometimes it's impractical as other trades will be screaming at you to get a wiggle on.

It's because it would be a suicide mission, as guaranteed the follow on trades will decimate all of their efforts made, to the point up to where they disengaged.

Yup. I used to install switching and dimming ( DMX512 ) when installing sound and lighting rigs for nightclubs / universities etc, and this is what we did. Lighting setups were all in 19" racks and had their own feeds from the 3ph DB. A bit on the fence when it's a residential as it may / may not be cost-effective, but as I don't have a drawing for the job it's hard to comment comprehensively.