Nickfromwales

I wouldn't put it in cavity walls tbh. Blown in, bonded beads for that AFAIC.

Defo. I should have said that. The builders on one of my 2x PH M&E projects in Leicester are absolutely mustard, an absolute breath of fresh air. The other project not so. After seeing F-up after F-up, after F-up, I simply went to the clients and asked them to sack him. Which they did. We managed to stop the poor work, covered up property damages etc left in his wake at circa £35k. If anyone wants to know which builder to actively avoid in the Lutterworth / Leicester area, PM me. Absolutely some of the worst work / work ethics I've seen in a few decades. Of course, his website looks absolutely stunning, shame they don't know which side of the saw has the cutting edge. It's not very often that I am stuck for words, as were the building control officers, drainage & groundworks engineers and others.

almost always POA after a survey. U-value similar to PIR sheet format, but if the spray company try to cut corners and do too much in one go, it ends up like swiss cheese and will have cavernous pockets of air everywhere. Just seen one example of this, what a crock of crap they turned out Took days to rectify.

Yup. I used to look up to these professionals, after 5 years of being a PH M&E, and listening to the majority, I look sideways and down. It would be a breath of fresh air to hear / see these types of prfessions stating what they do / don't do, and what for them to just excel at what they're best at doing, eg designing great houses. And just stop there!!

Posi's and a bit of additional timber to get you up / around 350-400mm depth, and blown-in cellulose wins the day for me. Just one days work for one guy, chilled out, and staggeringly good performance for both insulation AND sound-deadening. For the OP, I'd seriously consider getting spray foam in, but only if there's a robust interstitial condensation mitigation plan in place. Did you cap the open cell layer with a layer of closed cell, or did you go for an internal membrane instead? In talks with one client atm to go down this route ( vs membrane for AT plus obligatory's ) as the roof space is nigh-on impossible to get a man into, let alone cut and fit insulation AND ten cut and tape an AT / vapour membrane. A very bust attic trussed roof indeed, and just looking at the planning for insulating it "manually" was making my brain bleed. Worse than that was the assurance that a builder would just put a 'decent labourer or two' on it, and the results would be dire at best.

That's what I'm doing for 2 current clients ( both having 3ph Zappi's ). Biggest thing in a PH is the induction hob tbh, so what's the point in 3ph'ing the house? If net metering is robust, then balancing the phases becomes far less of a consideration, if any at all. On another project, 3 stories plus swimming pool in basement, I've installed ( in the process of finishing off this month ) 3x heat pumps ( house / swimming pool / A/C ), a whopper of 3ph solar PV + batteries + 3ph EV charging. It also has a self-contained annex into which I've installed a 3ph 27kW Stiebel Eltron instantaneous water heater ( size of a large shoe box, performs like a 30kW gas combi!!!! ) . As the annex gets fed from DB1 it was a no-brainer to go to a 3ph domestic install, but for my other projects there is simply no need to go to a full 3ph configuration for the house, in honesty, ( IMHO ). Maybe time to think of the validity, and consider what @joth says.

My bad, I meant single tails, which are PVC / PVC so wouldn't need containment? Same re number of cores. I need more sleep / fewer kids. Thanks for the observation! I'll get my coat....

The house may well have had timber windows there before the PVC was installed, and then the "cracks appeared". A lot of shit window companies mistakenly removed timber windows with central mullions which were load-bearing and incorporated into the load for the spans. Yes, a cause for concern and may be tricky to fix retrospectively. Try and negotiate a discount for this work, at least £5k, and also ask for the building regs paperwork for the room in roof, or the house needs to be valued minus that room ( so it would then only be classed as a ( valueless ) attic / storage space and not habitable space ).

Spoke to them ages ago about thermal stores for a log gasification boiler job I had on at the time. Seemed knowledgeable and helpful, from what I recollect, but I had to go with a turnkey supplier eventually as the RHI small-print meant the commissioning agent had to be direct to the client. Get a quote, no harm, no foul?

Assuming tails kept at 50mm depth, or more, of course.

Singles OK with PME, vs SWA? 25mm2 4C SWA is a whopper. Would 3C SWA suffice ( if singles not allowed ) with a separate 16mm PVC earth? EDIT: This was supposed to read 5C is a whopper. Would 4C SWA suffice. Already getting my coat, you'll see.

If the're letting drafts in, then defo upgrade.

"Who's coat is that jacket?"

XR35?

Not suffering from that particular ailment....yet.....

CVC Systems for me, every time. Brink Flair units plus the 'new' Air Comfort ( AHU for tempering ) work brilliantly and extremely quietly for my clients. I'm not a fan of large bore series run ( branched ) systems, due to cross-talk and the sheer size of the ducting. VERY unaccommodating to get the rough the fabric of a build. The radial 92mm ductwork is a doddle by comparison, eg to get through joist voids / confined spaces etc.

Just because @SteamyTea is only virtual here, does not stop him from being an eyesore.

I work on clients' bulds, and speak from what I've seen on pretty much every project, not just "chatting shit" here, me old china mug Bad experience, should read expectations either not met, or worse. Not just my words, clients words also. On the flip side, some great architects ( and keen architectural technicians ) out there, who seem to be struggling to get recognition and a foothold in the industry. Only my own opinion from hard evidence on live projects, so don't worry about me having too much of an impact on the poor architects They'll be just fine.

It's probably block then, which is like a teabag. Take all the paint off, scratch it up, and apply a new layer of waterproofed render. Maybe that would hold the damp from getting to the back of the paint.

Oh, dear lord!! No. Try the opposite. Architects draw great pictures, and then say "oh, it's 5 o'clock, bye" when it gets down to anything regarding technical detail / insulation / airtightness / and any slight hint that they may need to calculate or consider plant space and mechanical thoroughfares etc, and they're gone faster than you can say " where's the architects car gone?" when you spot their oversights / omissions. Wrong professional for this I'm afraid. You'll be able to get bags of info from here tbh, just start bashing away at the search facility and topics and get stuck in . Put the time and effort in doing your own research and then you won't need these people. Ask questions here and the answers will soon follow

Hi. What is that 'planter' made out of? Breeze block? Is there any liner inside it, and is there drainage for when it's raining?

+1. Plunger.

You use the one that gets sent with the bent one, that you'll get as part of the original frame + gubbings Just bin ( or eBay the rest )

Nope. That’s a pan connector extension. Just a straight pan connector. Hold the front page. Geberit make a straight one https://www.tapsempire.co.uk/product/geberit-monolith-straight-pipe-connector-for-floor-wc/?gclid=CjwKCAjw5pShBhB_EiwAvmnNV3nTvu4cVTIgpW6WSJfTBxqPyKD9TiAFYoMD664__4P-EN6nxCQ_xRoC03QQAvD_BwE Just email the supplier / manufacturer to check it clicks into the captive / locking clip on the frame, and job done.

The 3ph meter box is physically larger than a 1ph one. Which do you have installed? Google will help.