Nickfromwales

Slow down..... This. Easy roof are another. Panel sizes change faster than the tray manufacturers can keep up with, and then they have to go for MCS certification which takes even more time. If you want contact details for a very good installer, ping me a PM. He can tell you what fits into what etc, and then you can go decide.

Another one for the free 1hr chat I offered you, lol. You are a tough cookie to crack....aka stubborn. Same here.

This is what pays my bills. So few people get this properly aligned before breaking ground. Grab this with both hands, it's just so much less stress. Watch the in's and out's, as most fill the space with pipe and forget it has to get back to the manifold somewhere.

I can't even imagine relying on the self adhesive to stay put during the pour. In the pic above, I gas nailed the feck out of each and every rail, and then went around with some P-clips where the pipe still refused to stay put.

Ok, so you may want to go for 12mm plywood everywhere else upstairs, and drop back to 6mm at the threshold of the bathroom doorway. That'll allow you the 'good job of it' plywood layer, and then a 6mm deficit for you to install a mat and some electric heating mat, submerged in SLC (use Mapei LINK as it has fibres), and then your LVT will be flush from the hallways to the bathroom floor. Everything needs priming, expect @Pocster, he's already primed to the hilt. Brush some primer / water solution over the floor and UFH immediately before mixing the SLC, as you need to lay 'wet on wet' here for success. Add 1/4 pint of water to the SLC right before you throw it onto the floor, after you mix it to their instructions.

He's a man of many words, mostly curious ones...............perhaps he should lay off the Stella's a bit

That cut was sheer laziness!

Great minds lol.....

I've lifted quite a few failed floors, and the most I've seen is some darkening of the foil, nothing more severe, as the side effect of the screed going down onto bare foil covered PIR. I assume any off-gassing would be happening only during the curing process, with maybe a tiny amount thereafter (if any). The biggest benefit of using the membrane with dry screed is to have markers to use to lay the pipe to. Makes life a lot easier, but I use the PIR that comes with the 100mm lines on it mostly, and favour dry screed, so not really needed afaic; (if liquid, then it's needed, yes).

https://www.protilertools.co.uk/product/ultra-tile-fix-proprimer-advanced-polymer-primer?msclkid=9ae67650c99f1ca414e81ff48b4305ea&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping%3A Pro Tiler Tools&utm_term=4585925567009231&utm_content=1.1 All Products - Pro Tiler Tools Most tile places will sell this or similar. Use it neat on the underside of the try, it may take a lot, and then on the floor dilute by 25% with water and get the deck sopping wet. Leave for 15 mins for the surface to saturate, then buff back off any excess with a sponge or tea-towel etc. Don't let it dry completely before sticking the tray down, tacky at most. Butter the floor, butter the underside of the tray, and then apply a notched bed to the buttered floor, and away to go. Aim for a consistency like clotted cream. What's the make up of the rest of the bathroom floor around the tray? Plywood and tiles? UFH mat to go in? Best result would be if you glue and screw 6mm plywood down onto the entire floor area, and then stick the tray down on that. Is it exposed particle board (caber) or Egger? If Egger (laminated) then you'll defo need to ply first.

I've begun insulating everything, just for belt and braces, but just 9mm thick wall on colds. For any long-ish runs, it'll always be tepid as the amount of water to run to fill a glass will be the same as the dead leg of cold from the stopcock to the outlet. The only way to get cold drinks is to run the tap until your tepid is all down the plughole, insulation won't do anything for this.

Why did you say "almost certainly"...... Living this way will shorten a persons life.

Shhhhhh. You'll spoil the surprise.

Again you point blank refuse to listen to a word I am saying. You just described my house. Single brick uninsulated 2 storey extension that equalises with outdoor temp withing a few hours, on a hill with a stream running through the centre of the property, where after a week of zero rain it's still a full flowing thoroughfare. Single glazed windows in wooden frames for the two windows, but I have put new uPVC 2G everywhere else. 4 fire places with chimney stacks ventilated to the skys, etc. Absorb this information. Accept it. These are facts, not the fiction you keep throwing in my face. So. AGAIN, you are trying to tell me what my house is made of. Stop doing so, it's quite insulting. I have CLEARLY stated uninsulated, floors, walls, roof etc. So you are wrong. As far as my background, it's enough to allow me to execute a 100% refurb and extend, one day, when I'm not busy working my ass off 24/7/365 to provide for 6 people on one income. This is a turd that remains unpolished as tiny improvements are a waste of time (which I don't have) and money (which will be preserved for later when doing this properly). So my choice is to pay a bit more over winter, to heat this turd, but heat it I do. As soon as a bit of sun comes out the bill starts dropping, because the stone walls are actually on a par with a PH fabric as they are nearly half a metre thick. The only "period" I am going to be on, is a sabbatical from this thread, as your level of disrespect is quickly becoming immeasurable. Stop telling me something that you are guessing, and getting wrong, repeatedly.

Don't forget to have 5 pints of Stella first.

One way the cutter tries to open, the other it wants to bite down. You need the latter. Practice on a piece of 22mm pipe then cut the fitting.

You don't take it to showers and baths etc, as these are single, high volume, constant flow (at high flow rate) outlets; the time taken to get hot water out of a shower turned on full wallop is very little. Compare this to a small mixer tap on a wash basin, where high frequency, small volumes (at much lower flow rate) of water are used. The wait to get premium hot water from these is significantly more problematic (most wash their hands and rinse off just as the hot water finally arrives and then turn the tap off with a line loaded with nice hot water that you never actually got to use). In a well insulated house, the delta will always be closer, from ambient to pipe, so losses are actually lessened if there are no cold attics or voids under floors where pipework must live. Add to the mix an airtight house with MVHR, and the fact that all the pipes are within the heated and airtight envelope, and then you're going to end up recycling that latent heat back through the heat exchanger of the MVHR unit. I think this is less of a concern than most first think. Factor in the dead legs and excess water drawn off repeatedly, through the water meter, and then if you have solar and a heat pump, then annual energy costs would rise quite minimally (if at all if you are a net exporter). It's a lot of comfort for not much running cost TBH, and once to get used to that instantaneous hot water at certain strategic outlets, (kitchen sink and wash hand basins), you'll soon decide the tiny sacrifice is well worth it. Add to that the fact that I always fit a secondary TMV to the HRC so water no hotter than 48oC arrives at wash basins, and then there's no need to be faffing about trying to get the temp right so you can wash your hands. Just flick the tap to the hot position, and open it each time, and you get the same temp each time, near zero wait, near zero wasted water. HRC pipework is defo a candidate for being as well insulated as is possible, of course, so when plumbing a whole house for a client I take a 15mm DHW flow and a 10mm HRC return to each preselected outlet, and wrap the 2 pipes together in a single piece of pipe insulation, parting them just before the start and end of the run. A piece of 25mm wall x 22mm ID insulation works a charm here, so on a full new build I'll open up a 100m coil of 15mm and same for 10mm and tape the ends together and fasten them to a far wall. Then I'll start to work my way back down the length, for 20-30m or so, then I'll feed that umbilical through the posis and cut and repeat until the HRC runs are complete. The clipping is done around the insulation, not to the pipes, so a bit of all-round patent band ticks the box here. The 15mm and the 10mm can be joined at the basins, terminating immediately before the final 90o bend that feeds the tap, eg so there's near zero dead leg of ambient water to discharge ahead of getting premium temp DHW out. At this point you pretty much open the tap and take your hand off it, and the hot water's flowing by the time you've placed your hands under the tap. I use a Hep2o 15x15x10mm (centre reduced) tee, with a 10mm spigot bend in the centre, so the 15mm hot and 10mm are parallel entering the tee. The remaining 15mm outlet of the 15x15x10mm tee is the pipe that then feeds the hot of the tap.

Yes, where the red arrow is. Use the pushfit pipe cutter, slight rotation as you cut.

Will the absorption of all these natural energies not have some eventual knock-on effect?

A PITA, but if the glass IS actually etched, then maybe try mopping it with some G3 or G10 compound LINK as this is what I used to polish with cars back in the day when I worked for a high-end car sales as a detailer (when I had more hair and less creaky joints).

Why do you keep disrespecting people on here with this statement??????????????????????????????????????????????? Absolute and complete fecking garbage of a statement. Just untrue, non-factual, and is now wearing people down. Stop regurgitating this nonsense as it's utterly defeatist and backed up with zero facts; by your own admission here you've not once actually heated this house, so YOU DO NOT KNOW. End of. I LIVE IN THE EXACT SAME HOUSE AS YOU DO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You don't own the only shit house in the UK OK!!!!! Get over it!!!!! Read that 500 times, then go away, read it another 500 times, and then LISTEN ffs. Before replying, read it all over again. And then one more time. If you can't listen, and you refuse to accept these facts (not fiction or conjecture) and continue to refuse to accept said FACTS, then you are simply beyond help (and believe me, we've been trying). 10oC is 5oC warmer than a fridge you can keep meat in. Having the house at this stupidly low temp at night is just ridiculous. Have a think if you actually came here for advice and help, or just for sympathy, as I am at the end of my tether with you ignoring what I have written, and all of what the multiples of others have written (in their spare time, for free, with only the very best of intentions). You are a horse we are trying to lead to water..............

Yes. They're called M&E consultants. These will take everything into account, and look at your heating demands holistically, including fabric and ventilation heat loss, heating emitter types, insulation and fabric standards, airtightness, oh...........and the other X factor........the good folk who actually have to live in it comfortably, afterwards .

To which you replied “go feck yourself”?

As long as none of the new boards touch the cold structure, or are in immediate contact with the cold corner of the ceiling, then you'll be fine. Boand and screw 12,5mm or 15mm Marmox to the ceiling first, over boarding the existing PB so the dust and shit up the attic stays up there, and you can skim directly over that when the boarding is all done and you're ready for a spread. Butt the new insulated PB to the Marmox, then you are warm / warm and will have zero issues.

Sorry to disagree, but you know I will..... They do not need an AAV when the drop is <1300mm, some BCO's have stated <1100mm, but tbh most inverts for GF WC's is way less than this. Some are pretty much down and then straight out horizontally, so in all above instances these get an air-break soon enough for no such vacuum to be created. Ironically, I have more trouble persuading architects who are long in the tooth, vs BCO's, that this is completely fine and functions perfectly correctly. The dreaded vacuum is mostly an issue when the pellet of water etc is dropping a full 1 storey (2.4m or more) and gets up to speed, spreading out and filling the pipe as it falls. Then you defo need an AAV, but that's for falls from 1st and 2nd floors etc, only. Even if the WC is discharging immediately downwards it's fine, but if you have even a slight turn to the left or right, giving a small section of horizontal pipe before it drops the <1300mm, then the issue is basically zero. The horizontal pipe creates an instant air break, and the (perceived, possible) problem instantly gets a cure. BCO's have argued, then come to terms, and then they finally agree; some have then asked to see the WC functioning, before sign-off, but concede when they see it working flawlessly. Most just give up at the 1st challenge, where I say "it doesn't need one mate". Saves horrible boxing-in in the corners of the rooms with the requisite access panel etc.