Nickfromwales

Those AC isolators are physically connected in a changeover switch, so it’s one or the other in a flip/flop arrangement.

Changeover, as it’s referred to, should be exactly that. A switch that breaks all connection from the grid supply and swaps you to the ‘generator’ (whatever source that is), and any electrician should know the fundamentals here; if they don’t, there’s a book in their van that they can go and consult. If they still, then, don’t know, show them the door and give the same money to someone who does. If you don’t know, and you (any member of the public) attempt to DIY, then that’s about as dangerous as it can get. Foreign manufacturers installation guides need proper interpretation by the sparky / installer in the relevant country, so there shouldn’t be any ambiguity if you’ve chosen the installer well. It would need to be the ‘perfect storm’ though, as one dwellings output would be entirely consumed by the neighbouring properties sharing the line, plus the line / local transformer losses etc, so even if you had a huge inverter the chances of zapping a linesman, in the real world, would be rows of noughts after the decimal place. Imagine your microgenerator being asked, in a blackout, to reverse feed all of your neighbours houses. It wouldn’t even get the lights to flicker. A person would have to be working on the severed DNO cable feeding your house to go meet Jesus.

But you’re getting all the answers, however difficult that becomes, lol.

So, 3ph heat pumps, back on topic folks!!!!!

People, in general, would rather have a grossly expensive kitchen, nicer car, at least one holiday per annum, and a high gas bill. Ignorance will remain blissful for a good few more years to come.

I fitted one of these for a £25k bathroom makeover, and it was quite annoying. Made a sound when a device came into range or it lost it etc. Good sound, stereo tweeters with very good dispersion, but I’d never go this route again. Sonos (or other remote) amplifier, and a pair of dumb (quality) speakers for me.

The alleged fast chargers without fans will not charge a hot battery. They wait until it’s cooled fully and then charge at full pace. Best deals are batteries + charger bundles.

Permissions get handed out like penny sweets to developers. Had one client jumping backwards through hoops for 2 years of battling, costs of over £25k for the ‘privilege’, had to set the medium sized house back from the road to not offend the morning commuters, and half a mile further up the road was a developer site, houses 2m from the pavement, and all squeezed in with a shoe horn. These were just horrid red boxes, zero interest and not very ‘easy on the eye’, 2 or 3 PV panels on each, so the developer could trim back of insulation and boost the SAP by cheating, as the cheaper option to facilitate, and garages you couldn’t get a car into if it was tipped on its side = parking on streets / mayhem. The client had to do all sort of things to the house to please the public, including a faux chimney breast (on a PH!); the list went on……just an absolute piss take. Double standards tossers, and the fact it’s ultimately down to one individual to decide is just ridiculous.

Asbestos risk in hand, then just over-skim it. Don’t even dream about buying some filler in a tub and DIY’ing it, you’ll be looking for a cyanide pill half way into the job if you do and your arms will be hanging off before you even begin sanding. The dust and mess from this will be horrendous and right through the house. Persist with finding a plasterer, and all they should be doing is asking you for some staging or scaff tower on wheels, so they can do the job properly. Clean, quick, and one sitting. You just use a 4” scraper to knock all the highest ‘snots’ of Artex off, and then it’s a lathering of neat PVA and leave that to dry. If you want to save money, and attract a plasterer a little easier, do this first. Realistically, it’s an hour or so for a spread to just do this themselves, so pick your battle. Then the plasterer will neat PVA it again and lay straight on to the wet PVA with one set of skim to dub it all out. If it’s been scraped throughly then 2 sets would be enough, but if really lumpy then I finish that with a sponge float and then leave to stiffen up, and then 2 sets over that. Find a good spread, ditch the idea of over-boarding as it’s not as good a job and will be more expensive too (cost of boards, labour to install, and ceiling will still need to be heavily scraped back to board over anyways!).

Not for long though, even they could see through you

Or ask the wife to switch it on/off.

Sarking is the sheet board that goes (in some instances) over the roof rafters. If no sarking then the breather membrane is there instead. If sarked, the membrane sits directly onto the sarking. Then roofing battens.

Sounds like it needs (or would benefit from) a ‘backdrop’ chamber? As above, get a (good) groundworker in and get a professional opinion. When they suggest a solution, then go to the BCO and ask if that satisfies their expectations.

Indeed! My only reservation about AB is I think they need to up their game here, in terms of looking more meticulously at what potential damage could be done and to mitigate against it before doing the treatment. For eg, on the job I posted about here recently, the underbelly of the MVHR unit had 2 open ports and I hadn’t yet connected the condensate, so these were ports where air would have flooded in, gone right through the unit internals, and out through the 2 roof vents. That would have been catastrophic imho. I think they need to have a checklist for any time they attend partially completed projects, to seek and identify these types of things. Possibly a pre-visit email stating where these possible leaks / faux pas may exist and asking the client to prepare these accordingly, ahead of their visit. I'm seriously impressed with AeroBarrier, and I will be using them into the future with my new and future self build clientele, as it’s a very, very good system and the results were amazing. However, they do need to button this loose end up as it’s only my diligence (in putting 2 layers of duct tape over these MVHR ports) that stopped that unit from being (potentially) wrecked. I also blocked off every single room vent very robustly too, as obviously you cannot have any open MVHR ceiling terminals during this treatment. That’s my only criticism. edited to add: I assume AB would have blocked off all the MVHR vents as standard practice, I’m just happier if I know these are done ‘my way’.

If you’ve got MVHR and you’re going with AB then make sure you seal everything up, so the airborne sealant can’t get into it and exit through the unit internals to outside.

A bag on the red one should be the kiddy.

You’ll need it installed house wide, if you can’t then don’t. What is your as-built airtightness result?

I’ve given you contact details for one of the best screeders you’ll ever meet. Family run business, with dad having passed the baton to his sons. One of their previous projects was an £80m 8-storey mega house for a wealthy chap in London.

My mate (details have been shared with the op btw) did @Russell griffiths place, and I’ve used him for 25 years. When I say you can paint it green and play snooker on it, I’m not joking.

There’s near zero ‘ripples’ if you lay a dry screed properly, it’s trowelled by hand to float it almost completely flat.

You’re being racist to me now eh?

No minibar then??? 🫣

This. Same as carpet fitters, lay one side, move furniture over, lay the other side, put furniture back.

Apart for all the deaths, that’s a great idea A handful of solar PV panels, small UVC for hot water, and split AC for heating and cooling. Job done. ✔️.

Aka, ‘look the other way’, when a couple of windows are on night-latch vs fully shut.