Nickfromwales

This only matters at openings, and with a dry screed you can put a line of masking tape and draw a line across it and tell them to screed to that line. And they will. Then just feather the few places where it needs it, nothings ever perfect, and off to go.

There is no laitance with a dry screed? More accuracy, better finish, no follow up to get it ready, generally just better outcome. Also, it’s not a liquid, so less prep as it doesn’t want to find a gap and disappear down / into it. Then make life easy! Not sure what that’s all about. Last few cemfloor installs I’ve been on just needed sealing / priming etc.

Ok, so just get the test done and see if there’s a problem. Mechanical ventilation is just a powered fan, in whatever form that takes, so either push/pull like MVHR or single point extraction as per what you have.

Use my mate for the dry screed and you can pretty much paint it green and play snooker on it. You won’t need a full bed of SLC, your LVT installers will just use feathering compound wherever necessary (LINK) so less time and complexity and then it’s easier to manage trades. You should only need to do a full layer of SLC if you’re putting LVT down over a concrete slab. A good screeder will give you the result you want, save you time, and money.

If you’re not short of time, and your time is ‘free’ then don’t buy pre-folded tape? 200mm wide tape is something I’ve never seen or used, usually we’d just do multiples of runs of 50 or 60mm tape, but typically 80 and 90mm is the biggest stuff we use, with the largest being the window tape. That is where the backing is split like 15mm so you can just put that onto the window or door frame and not get tangled up with exposed self adhesive trying to grab on to everything in sight. Once you start you’ll get the hang of it quite quickly tbh. Get the consistency of the adhesive right, and it’ll be easy to work / manipulate, but if it’s too sloppy you’ll be finding it a horrible job. Get a plasterers hawk and a medium size plasterers trowel and that will speed things up.

Do the windows have trickle vents? Have you fitted extractor fans?

Nope, doubt it. The PRV discharge wouldn't T off. Combi needs 5 pipes, flow/return/gas/cold/hot. I see 5 pipes, so we're looking for pipe #6. Look directly up under the boiler, do you see another 15mm pipe heading off? Can you see this appear on an outside wall?

Yes, iirc he said the tunnel bunnies don't like to munch on it so much too.

All winter?

Here’s the last one I installed. Lagging was finished after leak testing.

I'm shocked that you haven't 3D printed them!!??

I have the 'soft impact' Makita, much quieter and doesn't screw with my Tinnitus. https://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-dts141zj-18v-li-ion-lxt-brushless-cordless-impact-driver-bare/6268P?tc=ET2&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20155423388&gbraid=0AAAAAD8IdPwxO053YvSbCmMepG6Gskz9x&gclid=CjwKCAiAkbbMBhB2EiwANbxtbR0UzbcX7Wb8GD5fDq5UUimYWayWY13Gp7PDLLi6ogS2m9WmHNFGZxoCDTQQAvD_BwE

Who cares about payback? MVHR is for quality of air. Consider the HR element to be a bonus as then you're not pulling freezing cold air in all winter and paying "powered fans" to spin to recirculate stagnant heat from the vaulted areas. Genuinely quite shocked to hear this approach thb, but 'different strokes' I guess.... I'm buggered if I would ever spend all my life savings and then be pulling cold air in and puking heated air out to the clouds for the rest of my life!!

A 150mm to 200mm ribbon, continuous around every opening. The pic above shows about 300mm as the clients went loop the loop with liquid Barney.... The danger when a self-builder becomes beyond obsessed with one particular thing, and then can't stop themselves ordering a few pallets of something......then some more.....and some more...... Not imo, the parge with tile adhesive is a much better surface for the liquid AVCL than rough blockwork, and gives a far more uniform surface for tape to be applied to. I got a <0.2 ACH with the last one, a masonry refurb of a 1960's POS. Blasted that past EnerPHit, and out the other side 😎. You'll need to use foam over the closer, and dab over the masonry / Soudal / tape. Which is fine, as then the fixings of the plates will be behind the tape / foam, and be sealed nicely. This is how every job gets done that I've seen. Tape last. And yes, the window company "could" have used bloody cranked plates....... they just thought it would be good to make like difficult.

Yup. Just fit A2A (air con) for heating but also for cooling. You’ll need more cool than heat. 300mm of PIR is 150% passive!! Take a chill pill and we’ll guide you back on track

The brush on stuff is good, just when you use it it tends to either need to be lathered on to allow the fibres to bridge stuff (which means it takes days to dry) or you brush most of that back off. It’s a bit of a fiddle to get used to applying it, plus you then use a lot more than perhaps you needed. One benefit, as it says it’ll plug 5mm pores, is you could miss the parge work out, but it needs more coats lathered on and lots of drying time vs parge and thin coats of the liquid AVCL. If times against you, I’d parge.

Use flexible tile adhesive instead of sand / cement, you’ll thank me later Use the standard set not rapid, and mix it to quite a stiff consistency. You don’t need a 5mm thick layer so don’t go wasting time / money getting these perfect and uniform. Just get it on, do a couple of reveals, go back to the first and trowel it to get it half decent, and then go over with a wet sponge an hour later to get a ripple free finish. Couple of hours later you can paint the liquid AVCL over the parge. Moisture will soak into the mortar so don’t worry about it not having fully dried out. I do about 150-200mm of parge, then about 100mm of liquid AVCL, minimum 2 coats, leave to fully dry (this is very important) then tape to that. How much of the cavity closer will be exposed between the frames and the tape / parge?

Yea, same with systems we use in swimming pool halls, so the buildings constantly depressurised. This promotes chlorine being evacuated vs the space being pressurised and it then trying to find a way out through the build fabric (or into the house). Learn some odd facts along the way when dealing with loads of different / bespoke projects, and I’ve picked up lots of important things you’d (and I’d) otherwise never have thought twice about.

Gonna be a while….

Yup. Simple always prevails. Heating bills weren’t a worry then I guess though, just don’t let the fire go out

If using AeroBarrier then I’m confident to say it wouldn’t be needed, but if you’re using the likes of MBC TF then you’ve got nothing to worry about as they will tape these for you in their price. Have you checked that in the contract? Not seen one yet where they didn’t tape them Double-check, and then tell Norrsken to stand down and just foam and mastic seal for weathertight, and be on their way.

Does any rain get into that gutter?! It’s not exactly out as far as most people’s… That looks like even slightly heavy rain will just shoot past that gutter. Very odd way to have done this and if it was my house I’d have not said I was happy with it. The roof should be able to take wind-driven rain all day long, and repel it robustly for the duration of its life. This is a non-starter, so alarm bells are ringing. I’d have expected to see more tile overhanging that vent, so does the manufacturer have an online installation guide you can link to? Doesn’t look right to me at all! Other roofing gurus will comment soon, but for me it looks very odd.

It’s @Big Jimbo’s choice of where he pisses, thank you 🙄 Give it another year, then maybe not so

I doubt I’d change its composition tbh, but I’d say to use the Mapei builders screed as (iirc) it has fibres in it. Defo needs fibres, sorry, been a loooong week.

Oh, I should have added that it’s a great product and I’ll be using it more often. That information may be of use too lol!