Nickfromwales

Anyone using or considering using sarking board, beware, as it’s a bit stronger than weetabix. All you need to do is look at it the wrong way and you’re off back to the stack for a fresh board, and adding another to the ‘cut’ pile. Used it on a recent project (22mm) and soon to be using it again, same thickness, maybe 35mm (tbd), and the carpenters will be getting programmed as to how these need to go on, when and how the batters go on, and impressed upon as to the desire for these to not be damaged during install or immediately after. Plan was, and is, to lay the sarking and breathable membrane, then the vertical counter battens, and then the roofing battens, then plywood, then metal roof suppliers chosen membrane, and then let the metal guys do their thing. You absolutely cannot walk on these unless it’s dead on a joist, one or two inches either side and you’re foot will begin to stove the board inwards, 4 inches away and your foot will go straight through it. This gets even worse if you’re laying these in the rain or slightly wet. Be extra careful of the tongues and grooves, as just picking the boards up the wrong way is enough to damage the groove end / side, I shit you not. 2 man job, minimum, but a labourer to hand for handling and sorting off cuts makes the job go a lot faster. If the labourer can use a saw and a tape, even better.

Utter nonsense. The system needs to be balanced, which is part of a proper commissioning process. MVHR units can’t balance, they have fans pushing air in / out, and are subject to the flow and distance to each terminal; ones closer to the unit will see huge flow rates, ones furthest away much less. Whether you care or not isn’t a good platform for giving advice. Do the job properly or not at all

You’re not pushing down hard enough on the drill / impact gun I expect. The lifting of the boards is called ‘jacking’ which sees the boards lift as if they were being ‘jacked’. This is usually where a fully threaded screw has been used vs a part-threaded screw. It does need a screw for every nail in every board, it’s called preparation. “Fail to prepare, prepare to fail”. I worked for a dickhead a good few years ago, and one thing he said always rang true….. ”Short cuts take 3 times longer”. Much as I hated it, he was right. Every time I tried in life to go the easy / quick route, I ended up pulling it all out and doing it all over again. I’m a stubborn bastard so I kept going against this, but it just came back to bite me and now I just do it right first time. Lecture over, put as many (or as few) screws in as you feel comfortable with

You don't tape to blockwork. You need to parge the blockwork, to get it flat and uniform, and then paint it with liquid airtight membrane (assume Passive Purple from Intelligent Membranes?) and then you tap to that. If you've PP the bare blockwork then that's less than great as the pours of the blockwork will allow air to pass behind the tape. A pic of what you have would help, but, tbh, you just get the windows installed and then airtight afterwards, which reduces unnecessary work and effort. This was one where I got the builders to fully parge the woodcrete ICF, as it's pretty dogshit unless you do the lot, and then PP over. Then they foamed, then they taped. Very difficult project where I was principal consultant, but the builders were really good guys and we got an initial 0.88 ACH, then a bit of 'go find the leaks', and then a final test at 0.66 ACH (as built, end of project test) which was really not expected.

Hoover the crack out, stiff brush to loosen up and debris, and wet it thoroughly with SBR 75%, water 25%, and pour the SLC on to the wet solution. Don't let it dry and then pour SLC. Don't drive over it for a good day or 2.

Can you post a pic of the pipework under the boiler and another stood back a bit, so we can see if maybe it goes into a trap or a pump unit etc?

The subfloor needs to be robust, so no loose screws / nails, and no excess movement. Nothing will survive a moving deck. If the deck is nailed down, then I’d punch a 5.0 x 60mm screw in where every nail is, right alongside it, and get the preparation done properly. Is the bounce because they’re original, smaller joists, or because the deck isn’t fixed down properly?

With a higher hot water demand I’d recommend staying on gas. Cheap reliable workhorses with a still very reasonable running cost. Oodles of hot water and a very small footprint for a decent sized system boiler. You can still divert solar or battery power into hot water all summer, so the boiler will do a lot of sleeping during that part of the year. Maximises longevity too. You’d have to have a big ASHP and cylinder and the SCOP would defo take a hit, plus you will hurt the ASHP longevity too imo, asking it to do DHW all winter, and heating. Ive done a good few heat pump installs, so I’m good with either machine, but the solution should always be about the remit, and the client.

Electric instants are dire at best. The 3ph ones are amazing, but single phase are pretty shit and completely driven by cold water temp; in winter, they get soooo much worse performing.👎 Add the cost of a huge cable to supply it, electrician costs to supply / fit, and the eye-watering amount of electricity it will gulp whilst you are using it. Fit a hot return, and enjoy the benefits.

#victoriandad lol.

Seems you’re off the hook mate

Oh Lordy 🤐

That's a very big "no".

ASHP may not be the best for this, as there’s a lot of time taken to recover a cylinder fully, time where the heating isn’t serviced, as the heat pump will do one job at a time only. Are you completely averse to staying on gas for 10-15 years? A gas boiler install would save a chunk of change and still isn’t a ‘hideous’ idea / route to take. Depends on your priorities and aspirations I guess, and also if you have somewhere sympathetic to locate a heat pump?

Not cheeky, just daft, sorry. You’d need a second circulating loop into a low loss header, and a re-plumb, as you’re reliant on the HP for circulating the water. Note that the Willis are 15mm too, so cannot simply ‘go inline’ as it would choke the flow. Whenever I fit Willis I always fit 2 so the 22mm flow goes through “30mm” of Willis heater(s), which some goons just don’t understand or appreciate. Some say 1x will work, yes it will, but 2 is less than £100 more, can go inline, and will offer redundancy and fail safe. Jet is to plumb them hydraulically identically so they both see the same throughput; so one doesn’t bypass the other and so both share the duty. Mike……”No” 👎. Not needed, and your COP will be 1.

If you’re cutting limbs off trees and are super-pruning, then defo go for a baby chainsaw. Milwaukee do a nice one, but if you’ve already got makita batteries etc then Link

Get the family to safety, immediately!!!!!

Slates. Very expensive ones iirc!!

Is it heat pump specific? You need a particle filter as well as a magnetic filter to catch all types of debris.

Just lay a strip of hardboard and use duct tape to go up the outside of the profile and wrap it over the hardboard (or a good stiff cardboard) and lap the two ties over each other on top. Pour the SLC and leave to cure, then cut the tape with a sharp Stanley knife where the SLC stops and remove.

Double check that Of there’s definitely not one, then yes it’ll need an auto air vent. Do as the good book says, because if you deviate you’ll be without warranty. Don’t ring their tech support to ask verbally, if you decide you’d like to explore this intensively, and ask them by email; if they say to use glycol in the book but say you can omit it, you’ll need that in writing.

I should have added this. Thanks!

It'll need to be OSB3 to be specific You can't use regular OSB externally. So will be 3/4" imperial, which means 18mm OSB3 is the thickness you need. Not sure why you suggest 9mm board? This should form the sarking, so kills 2 birds. Membrane over, and away to go.

Based on what it's attached to, in such limited amount, basically. Provide a substrate that wont degrade, is impervious to moisture and movement, decouple them with a few mm of suitable mastic, and I don't see an issue. Happy for someone to tell me otherwise of course.