Nickfromwales

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No affiliation, but I quite like this system / offering. Others are out there, but some do not "under-sling" as these do. https://springvale.com/beamshield/

Rack the outside of the roof structure with 11mm osb, then membrane, then roofing battens. Create a false ceiling internally, bridging over the purlins etc, and then install an airtight membrane right through the interior. Make the new interior surface so that the distance from OSB to membrane is 300mm, and pump the resultant void full of cellulose. It'll be quiet as a mouse when it rains, will be insulated well , and will allow you to lose the purlins (cold bridges) which can be replicated with faux timberwork for character, if so desired. This then negates tedious cutting and fitting of rigid PIR boards and near zero waste. It also means you can get rain-proof PDQ. This allows you the option to go for a more contemporary option for the interior, eg to achieve uber-flat / straight ceilings and some uniformity, again, if so desired. The caveat is you may need to cap the purlins 3 sides around with 30mm PIR to stave off cold bridging and guarantee zero interstitial condensation risk. A better end result IMO, and guaranteed airtight to boot. The battens which hold the membrane on become service voids for cables etc, and MVHR ducts can be lost in the cellulose, as long as they are kept tight to the inner 'chords'.

It doesn't need to be a steel? If you cut out the heads, inside and out, then you can easily install a pair of 6"x4" pre-stressed concrete lintels in, and max out on the headroom. You can put some compo over the top and wind them up with a Genie lift, eg so the wall plate is bedded in and firm (so no movement after the lift is removed). Defo doable, just you need a slightly more dynamic builder. Insulate between lintels and away to go. You'd gain about 325mm of additional head that way.

As long as the material that lines the reveals doesn't contact the outer leaf, the detail that you have there will be perfectly fine. Oh, and option A defo not B (minus picking up the appliance).

Ok, so what about softening the water? Should the mains not just be picking up the kitchen / utility sink and outside tap, and then go into a pressure reducing valve, and then into a softener? Is Lincolnshire water hard or soft? England and Wales Northumberland, Tyne & Wear and Lancashire down through the Midlands tend to have slightly hard to modrately hard water. Lincolnshire, the Home Counties and the south east have hard to to very hard water.

That needed a couple of reads, and I still don't feel I fully digested it!! I'll keep at it, but agree that it created a suitable and pragmatic resolve to something people thought was 'ridiculous'. 5 pints of Siler Adder in atm in my hotel, so the brain is now becoming "befuddled". Time for an early night, as some ASHP/UFH commissioning awaits me tomorrow!

Do you have a link to the reference material? Interesting topic tbh, and there’s a lot of confusion over this.

Great. Do you mind me asking which stat you ended up going with, please?

Yup. You and I are doing the same thing, just I want to be able to set up my DJ decks / amp / monitors etc and not piss the neighbours off. The walls will be decoupled 3x2 studs x2 with 50mm of acoustic between them so 2x 75mm acoustic infilled in each leaf (75+75+50 = 200mm of acoustic in the walls) and I will probably go nuts and use resilient bars or some other measure for the lower frequency sound, possibly rubber (recycled car tire) mats. However, the roof....... I'd like to use metal profile pre-insulated sheets, for simplicity, and would then overlay (internally) with 100mm of acoustic batts. Still unsure of how this would work, bu tI think I'll be ok if there are no gaps / cavities between the interior metal skin, the batts, and the room airspace. Issue is further compounded by 21 PV panels being destined to go onto the roof and me wanting to go MCS so I can sell excess (and force-discharge), meaning the fixings and structure need to 'comply'. PIR aka SIPs roofs are acoustically "shart" so beware.

I've just parted ways with a strong-minded client who stated the the idea of Heat & Chill Recovery "pleased him", but I didn't get the opportunity to tell him exactly how much of a ball-ache heat and chill recovery actually is, plus (as nothing is for nothing) just HOW MUCH heat / energy has to be created as waste, so it can be uneconomically collected an diverted elsewhere. This works well in other climates, mostly Oz and parts of the USA etc, but would do the square root of feck all in old Blighty I'm afraid. Sometimes you see a river bank with corpses of dead horses that refused to drink. @Jilly I looked into this for a client many moons ago, but the amount of energy you see as useful is actually too small to be viable to spend money on capturing and diverting.

Do you think you are going to get them any flusher-fitting than what you have already? I doubt it.

From 27 to 22 is what we call "a result". 27 must have been quite unbearable? Do you not have a means of initiating cooling automatically (via a dumb stat which monitors the upper temps) eg to facilitate a policy of prevention vs cure? You should be able to run at lower cool flow temps if this is 'grabbed' early. Why did you have to 'run' it, why didn't it run itself?

EasyRoof are another. Just be sure the panels you choose fit in the in-roof trays that you buy. There are lots of combinations that WON'T work, so beware. https://edilians.co.uk/easy-roof-evolution.html

Just install a Willis heater in the flow to the manifold(s) with manual bypass / changeover valves then? TBH if you've already a G3 requirement with the UVC then go with KISS and put the immersion in the buffer

Why not just use the factory backup heater that will be already integrated inside most decent modern ASHP's?

The concealed shower valves need to be at a very specific depth, to allow for the facias to be fix on after tiling / other. Be sure to do some YT surfing and make yourself familiar with what needs to be observed before you go jumping in. Ask lots of questions here and we'll help as much as we can

If it's a true buffer and has no immersion, you can blank the T&PRV as it will be already present elsewhere in the system. The buffers only need G3 and T&PRV if there is an immersion heater installed. I've just installed one, last week, from Telford. It came with the empty 1 3/4" immersion boss and the blank 1/2" tapping for the T&PRV to be screwed into, but neither are wanted or required as it's a buffer only. Both will be blanked off, and only the UVC will need G3.

Hi. Firstly I would completely discount your experiences with the rental and what you have there, which I assume is a retro-fit system into a property which is not airtight at all and has trickle vents / leaky doors and windows / structure / cold ventilated roof etc etc. We can only advise for the property that this system is aimed at You cannot manipulate single spaces unless it is by temperature, by inclusion of inline duct heaters in each room. A single fan provides airflow, so different air speeds are only decided upon commission, so the system can be balanced. Once set, each space gets a set input or extract volume of air, and the whole house is either on trickle or boost. There are other types of system that may be of better compatibility to your current remit, but before anyone can advise further we would need to know a few things first; type of dwelling - airtightness score if airtight - is MVHR mandated or a choice purchase?

+1. Patching is putting off addressing what is causing the issue in the first place.

Hi Graham. The only reason it gets up to that temp is because it's a heat trap, and the heat cannot escape. If you tried to tap that heat off for directing elsewhere you'd cool that space in seconds, and would have spent a lot of money on an idea which would produce zero yield. If this were a certified PassivHaus then there would be some useful energy taken from this and added to the math, but not for a regular brick / block dwelling I'm afraid.

Ah, just looked again and I think you will need to go the wool route + air gap as there isn't a lower OSB deck under the furring pieces. My bad, but I can blame the good people of Brewdog for their game-changing Punk IPA. Why not go 50mm of PIR then 25mm service battens for cables, and use flat panel LED lights such as Xcite from CEF vs regular down / spot lights? You'll only need to scallop the PIR slightly to get the transformers in, which will be of little to zero detriment. https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/4501996-8w-led-downlight-white-4000k?gclid=Cj0KCQjwmtGjBhDhARIsAEqfDEfRUXBbV-rtoRKAKUFI9HandcRD-tQnk9Gc_yo19B-gNVQTcpOgUWUaAgi1EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Those lights are the thickness of plasterboard, so you can span a joist without a problem (if you need lights to be where they 'need to go' and a joist prevents the OCD monster from being satisfied). I use them on most jobs and am super happy with them, as are the clients.

I'm about to drag one such company backwards through hot coals on my clients behalf. They may as well have just sat in the car vs walk around being pretentious and self-inflated non-important wombles, tbh. What they've signed off on has since been exposed as is horrific. They've clearly just looked at the lipstick applied by the builder, who I have had sacked, and now we are JUST about at the end of a long and expensive journey putting his utterly fecking garbage works right. BCO is the ONLY tenacious and 'particular' guy on this site to date. Apart from me that is!!

PIR is typically 140 IIRC so quite a difference, but PIR at 140 is way overkill for a raft etc.

Just remember that there are short and long staples Short staples are usually specified for PIR, but won't do jack in EPS. Specify long staples, and bang a load in, particularly on the bends and returns. The trick is to use you body weight to hold the pie down when turning / bending, and do not step off until the bend is formed and you're back on the straight. Expecting one clip to hold as you continue to bend the pipe will never work out. Use the longer clips for everything is my advice.