Nickfromwales

@Selfbuildsarah How many people in the house, and how many bathrooms / baths? Remember that the second you lower the volume of premium heated water in the hot water cylinder the cylinder stat will kick in and fire up the heat pump at 100mph to reheat it. This will happen before you turn the hot tap off most likely, so as you are consuming hot water it will be getting reheated simultaneously. For an ASHP and anything more than 2 occupants you should go to a 300L cylinder IMO. You asked if the pic you referenced was a job where UFH was installed, answer is yes. See the 2 manifolds lower down in the pic R/H/S. How many metres of pipe, exactly, will be needed to run the ASHP to the cylinder as you wish it to be done? 15-20m is no real world issue, but will likely need a second pump on the return to compliment the one in the ASHP on the flow.

No worries. The pic shows a standard incoming gas supply plus EGC (Emergency Gas Control aka shut-off valve) so all good there. I would seriously consider upgrading all the gas supply pipework under the boards now, in anticipation of changing to a modern boiler downstream. That would very likely require 28mm or 22mm pipework to supply it, and that can do done now relatively economically. If you do change boilers then it will need doing anyways so you either pay less now for hidden larger pipes, or pay more later and have to either wall mount it externally or pull the floors up retrospectively. What boiler do you currently have? If fed via 15mm pipework I assume an older 'heat only' boiler + cylinder?

Are you typing this from the pub again? I thought we agreed nothing until after 11:00!! One tank is ample, you just size it accordingly, ffs. 🙄

Plus I have lost count of how many of these are fitted / have been fitted as per in the above pic and they work just fine. May be a slight worry if immediately connected after a 1 or 2 storey vertical fall, eg where the brown dolphins are at Mach 4, but as there is a long straight run here at GF level things should only be travelling at a standard pace (so they will change direction without getting airborne first). "Stand down brown alert!". 💩

Assuming that was meant to say storm drains(?) then maybe an opportunity to introduce that through the centre inlet and for it to be periodically washed through by rainwater. If it's a combined sewer that is?

It is piped 'incorrectly' but will function perfectly well as is. The big question will be if your building control officer agrees this or not. @lifeviaai, what's the deal with building control?

Don't start cutting this out, there is no need. Straighten as much as possible as per above advice, and cut the turrets to correct the angle for the cover. This is a can of worms that doesn't need opening IMHO.

Time to get on Amazon and get a cheap borescope, and take a peek. Is there a downlight / other downstairs, where the shower is?

Coolio. Get the order of events clear, post your 'plan of attack' here, and "we" can offer support and critique before you push the button. For a bit of respite, there are many folk far worse off, and this is recoverable. Time goes, that's a given, but the effort here and now will produce dividends for sure. 👊

Indeed. Be pragmatic, and be firm. Keep the threat of legal action back as a last resort. Hopefully you won't need to show that card, let alone go the route of legal recourse. If you do then I think you'd be successful in this instance, but don't assume you will be. Consider costs before lighting any fires. CAB will be a great sounding board, as will BH.

Holy shit.

Would the 203 have given you the headroom that you assumed you were going to get?

These things are bombproof unless not fitted A1. When SWMBO said "we're taking on water" was the water in the shower area confined as it normally is? Inside the cubicle / other?

OK. Did you unscrew the top threaded part out of the waste fitting that resides under the tray? You should have been unscrewing.......................nothing.

Nope, all good. Go back to counting kiLler-wHale-hOurs please (LHO for future reference)

Hi. In 30+ years of heating and hot water I have never seen a supply pipe in 15mm copper. I suggest you investigate this properly by lifting floorboards and identifying what gas pipework is in use, and what is redundant. The redundant stuff needs to be cut out and capped off by a GSR'd installer. Can you upload a pic of the meter, showing the connections and where they go into the floor / wall / other, please?

Order has now been restored. As you were, people.

Even with the cheap-skates.

We make very special allowances for some.

I've got Geberit products which have been installed on clients builds, kids and all, and never once have any of these products failed. And I mean not ONCE. Poor fitting / installer error is often the culprit.

Far better option AFAIC and saves on precious GIA. I thought closer to 13o? I would not want the entirety of the basement concrete to be at exactly that temp and then to have to try to mitigate retrospectively / internally. Seems a no-brainer to dig a bit wider and drop 200/300mm of EPS around / underneath. At depths of 2m and more, the ground temperature does not deviate very much from the average summer/winter surface temperatures (around 8° to 12°C [46ºF to 54ºF] in the UK depending on location). At this depth, there is an enormous store of heat that can be usefully tapped for heating in the winter.

Possibly just taken out of context / worded 'poorly'? Some written comms here are difficult to decipherer with some folk opening mouths seemingly just to change feet, (I think I actually invented Foot & Mouth tbh because of doing so "more than once") but things aren't very often meant in a bad way on here. Seems we have a reasonably decent bunch in residence.

Go EPS-based for sure. Woodcrete = PITA.

2-port buffer all day long, and then you can lose a pump.

Also, no guarantees that the render won't pop, even with a diamond drill.