Nickfromwales

Go for a horizontal UVC and put everything else above it?

In a "passive house" the flow temps are inconsequential. I now pipe under every single shower tray for my clients builds, staying around 400mm away from the waste / drain. Why? Not sure, but I am reasonably sure confident that it's entirely moot tbh.

You can't do any harm, so just work out what the lowest setting is that will maintain the room temps. Biggest question you should be asking right now, is what temp to set the mixing valve to Start off at 40oC and go up each day in 2oC increments until you are happy. Don't make adjustments in the same 24hr period, patience will pay dividends here

Members can petition @Andrew Jones directly via PM, please feel free to do so.

Don’t cry. There are people you can talk to

You won’t have excess solar when it’s wintertime though. Plus, trying to operate a heat pump on sporadic pockets of sunshine is just barking mad.

Plus MVHR?

Facts, not stories Prices for them is now utterly insane. These got rebranded Thermino to try and shake the troubled relationship, and also Aquafficient. Same box, rebranded. Saw another of these getting wheeled out of someone’s home a few weeks back, never to return, and an UVC going in; to relieve the owner from their long-suffering negative experience. Sunamp tried hard to wriggle out of replacing some of these failed units. When the clients sought my technical support, Sunamp then backed down and replaced (supply and fit) for free. Facts, not stories.

Will be a nonsense figure if you then go and introduce trickle and mechanical ventilation imo. Can you sacrifice a little bit of plaster and board for a lifetime of heat recovery, fresh air, zero drafts, lower heating bills, requiring a smaller heating system……list goes on. Getting an AT test done FIRST will be paramount, as if you’re off with this, then MVHR will be useless and pointless, plus detrimental. Previously linked are some very cost effective suggestions for MVHR equipment. Work a budget around those.

Oh dear! You’ve a rather shite architect then. He’s let you spend all that money on AT and then you’re making a cold draughty home to comply with building regs, via trickle and point mechanical extractors. Ffs. What a shambles, sorry to be blunt. Please take some sound advice from us here, and bend over backwards to install MVHR. (PLEASE!!). Do you have an opportunity and a budget? This would be the best thing you invested in afaic. Really think long and hard before poo-pooing it.

See @Omnibuswoman’s latest few pics. Most of the web of the I-beam gone, whereas with posi’s there would be virtually zero cutting out between joists, sometimes zero.

Pulling in pipes and ducts. Be mindful that I referred to trades prices vs DIY so savings are had both ways, one in time (you) others in cost (bringing in an installer).

Just consider any walls where and insulated 15mm pipe(s) may drop down, as those battens may need to be 45 / 50mm vs 25mm.

Probably best to add, that MBC (and some others) do the cellulose filled frame vs SIPs, but tbh the SIPs I find to be horribly acoustically transparent vs a fully blown (graveyard quiet) offering. Apples for apples quotes should consider this, as SIPs isn’t a house I’d build for myself, ever, especially one featuring a flat / mono-pitch SIPs roof! If going down the SIPs route, defo go for pozi’s in the roof and just pump that full of cellulose. You’d thank me later, but it’s hard to fully comprehend the difference(s) unless you’re as fortunate as I am; being able to gather real live / life data from my many clients differing builds / choices (some which I now know to avoid!). Almost all seem to pay little homage to M&E design / integration, but in fairness MBC seem to embrace this far more than most others. Being ahead of the game with the M&E stuff can save a load of money with downstream trades, if addressed (identified and caught) in the early days (before the slab goes down). Simple things like not going for I-beams for one!

Also, is the mist system your choice or specified by BC?

Yup. Astonishing seems to be the norm. Have they also specified cross-talk and acoustic attenuators? Ah, slow connection, now showing the pics lol! Good for you, getting stuck in, and looking good so far.

Have you looked at seconds? https://www.insulationsouthwales.com/ Fill-in the gaps with foam, then tape, use the saved money to put towards a holiday.

I think it’s just the general / overall deterioration of the up-stand and the floor (cracked and now U/S) as these clearly no longer perform their intended task(s). I doubt there will be any success in putting a band-aid on this, an instead I would pay to have this up-stand re-rendered and do the job properly. Time = decay, and maintenance & repair is the flea of owning the dog. Time to spend some money here methinks, sorry! I’d only want to do this once too, so I would ask a local builder to disc cut around the perimeter of the concrete path, at around 400mm from the vertical facade, and replace that too. “Short cuts take 3 times longer and cost 3x more to do”.

Defo. Norrsken’s best offering doesn’t go much lower than 0.7. Let’s wait for @Cooeyswell to clarify.

Hi Max. I doubt your integrity, I’m sorry to say, as I’ve seen your house and it is at least a 5 bed….something VERY fishy going on here.

This will be the best time, expense and effort you can possibly invest in. Tell sparky boy to just stick to sparking What he said. Is the entire house airtight by design, and you’ve integrated this from day 1? Or have you taped and membraned where you think it’s needed? You defo need an AT test asap before doing anything else regarding calculations for heat loss and then deciding how you will achieve that energy input. @Barnboy I am assuming you’ve not done an AT test yet? If not, why? If AT you will need MVHR and the MVHR design should have demanded this result to be a known also?! Or at least target.

Hi. Can you upload some pics so we can see how it sits at ground level, as that will be one of the issues (damp / water ingress) if it is to be insulated and boarded etc.

You don’t spend any time floating around up there, so it’ll never be an issue. Comfort is perceived by the occupant, so if you are at the right temp and not turning purple, game on

And if you have an insulated raft you can chunk / bulk heat with the slab as a ‘thermal store’, during off-peak times, to minimise the 1:1 costs somewhat. Maybe better to have 2 Willis for boosting from these sometimes shorter windows. Also good as a failsafe.