Nickfromwales

At the end(s), yes, 100%. No need at all. These trays are the dachshunds danglers. Put 6mm ply under the tray, then lay the tray on top of that. Your tiler is spot-on, and you just wrap around the rest with more 6mm ply, glued and screwed at 100mm o/c's. Are you using the Impey (water-guard?) system eg the membrane to go wall to wall sides and ends?

Header tank etc. The "break" (iirc A-A) is required to separate potable feed from Cat5 RWH (as RWH is classed as more dangerous than effluent!). It's the reason you cannot have the cold mains top-up feed in the turret of the RWH tank eg to prevent (eradicate) the possibility of accidental human consumption / reverse contamination of the potable systems. I've looked at where you are with this, and you'll defo be staying with what you have. My recommendation would be to jack that tank up as high as is absolutely possible. Connect and test what you have, and deal with issues IF they occur. You have one or more get out of jail card(s); add a pump later down the line (the type that people have to add to gravity cold supplies to appliances such as washing machines). LINK Or, cover your arse for the whole house with one of these LINK As said, do nothing until there is a problem.

Do the MI's mention the option to use an accumulator vs a break tank? I don't fit break tanks / go gravity tbh, just seems like a leap backwards to me. If that's an option, just switch the break tank to an accumulator (100L or so should suffice ) LINK and then you'll have mains pressure to everything. Just noticed the system says "a minimum of 5m between the bottom of the break tank and the washing machine"! To answer your actual question, you may have issues with the time it takes the WC's to fill, but I doubt it would genuinely matter that much. Just with gravity you usually preserve the pressure / flow by upsizing the pipework to compensate, hence they recommend / spec 22mm.

Busted 🥺

Move to Swansea mate Perpetual sunshine here 😎

25mm Marmox + skim. Almost 100% of the thickness is then insulation.

Close, but no cigar.

Statistically, falling from a single storey is worse than 2, as you do one revolution in mid air apparently and not land on your head. Statistically, I’ll attempt to avoid either

I always recommend Marmox boards and plaster directly to them.

Ah, OK

This will give you almost "on - off" heating characteristics. Is that a choice, or a constraint?

We've had a quick chat behind the scenes, and it's been decided that you'll kneel on a half-dozen pencils dressed as a cheerleader for this outburst. Due to impracticalities with locations etc, please could you upload the footage to YouTube and post links here.

@Rodger'd You should know better, but it has been a quiet week for you two so I knew it would only be a matter of time (before another crime against decency was commited)... For all that is holy, please return your shorts to the appropriate position. @pocster, FYI that's all the way up, before you say otherwise. Everybody else, please return to your homes. There will be no public spanking, not today anyways. The management.

They don't make gloves thick enough for me to "handle" you mate

Do you defo need the cooling effect?

One client came in just short of £25k and 2 years of bickering.

Oh. BPC used to list one, but it's disappeared from their website. Maybe ominous... You'll probably have to sell a kidney, but:- https://products.zehnder.co.uk/en/product/zehnder-comfoclime-36 I think you'd be looking at a complete swap out, but this may allow you to do away with the duct heaters. I'm not sure of your heat demand, so that would need close examination.

Yup. How thick is the final wall covering? Parge then dot & dab a plasterboard on, or full wet coats to a paintable finish?

I always thought that mineral wool would convey / bridge damp.

Parge first, as nothing will stick to the pores of the raw block face. Then you brush apply something like Passive Purple (liquid airtightness membrane) and leave to dry. Then you can tape to that. You may just as well brush on the thicker (non-sprayable) stuff as your airtightness tbh, as you can push the brush down into the internal angle where the wall and floor meet, plus it’ll stick to most stuff too.

I'm just wondering if you could have these units split, so the MVHR stand alone, and then the heat cool unit as a bolt-on. Would give better results I think, plus much better redundancy.

But very good at knocking that on the head right at that location.

If the combi was a retro fit then there may be a 22mm hot pipe there to tag the UVC on, and do as I just suggested above. The Caleffi valve does what you state, but it's a few hundred pounds. I used to fit them to the Sunamps / Therminos so they could pre-heat any combi. Some manufacturers capped incoming temp at 25oC, others 30oC, and some just stated chuck in what you like! The downside to tempering at that low a temp is that you get very little reward from what will be a 4-figure upheaval. Going to a system boiler config and taking the water from the UVC > outlets will give the highest rewards for the lowest outlay. You can get most sizes with dual immersion, but the smaller you go the more likelihood there could only be 1x installed due to space limitations inside the vessel. At 210 - 250L I think dual immersion will be fine. Ask Trevor at cylinders2go and mention my username and the forum and he will look after you with a good price on the cylinder.

OK. You can turn the existing combi into a system boiler by adding 2-port zone valves to the CH output of the boiler. One goes to space heating (CH) and the other would heat an UVC. The DHW output of the combi would just get redirected to the least / shortest run outlet in the house, cloakroom WC for eg, and then the rest of the house comes off the UVC. Then you'll have much better showers, and somewhere to dump your solar excess. Probably a 150L to 180L cylinder would suffice, as gas re-heats an UVC PDQ

Lol. I must stop reading whilst on the phone Ah, ok. Are the duct heaters only upstairs?