Nickfromwales

I was wondering why the test certificate had pictures of the Mr. Men on it. lol.

It's to de-rate the outgoing supply, so L > SP MCB > final destination. The cable feeding the MCB should be able to take the current of the supply so it's not looking up to par.

We're both going to hell. lol.

What have I told you about drinking during the day?

I've zero idea of what I'm looking at. Is the cable regular twin and earth (T&E), as it appears to me to be so. If it is, then it's a dangerous install. This needs to be in "containment", so as @Mr Punter suggests it needs conduit or trunking. Even if this is temporary it is dogshit on toast, and the bread was out of date.

LOL

This catches so many people out. Needs taking off and replacing regularly. I feel for you, but maybe you could reach out to the courts and ask for some scrotes on community service to be sent round. They won’t break the law ever again after that.

Unsuccessful Somalian pirates most probably

VHT (Very High Temperature) paint is used on exhausts and the such, so start there.

Amen.

Two entirely different things! The weather sealing is fundamental, so absolutely should have been done. They (or you) can now use a clear UV stable mastic to do this, or employ a "mastic man" who will not come with fat thumbs and make a mess of this in anger. If the work is offered up as snagging, state before work commences that you don't want the sealant looking like Ray Charles did it.

I'll get my coat.......

People will just be plugging these in with near zero GAF though, I expect.

Quite interesting! Thanks for that.

Ah! How does it then not electrocute the poor sole holding the pins of the plug?

Erm....expense? A few £10's at most. It's a totally different foam, which will be void of honeycombing etc, so buy cheaper foam if you wish, but "seriously!?".

He'll be dead from worry before the concrete has set! An extra 200mm of concrete will have zero impact here. Mountain vs molehill. I dread to think what'll happen when you have to choose paint

Drill a dozen 6mm holes and pump it full of "PIR in a can", eg Illbruck foam <20 mins per window, job done

25mm it is!

I saw volumetric being poured at a project in Ilford. That was for a technical raft foundation with stepped outer toes, crazy complicated. Seemed to be a very good solution as calculating the volume required for that job would have been crystal ball o’clock.

The 4th wagon of SCC was a lot thicker on the last one, and the guys on the dapple bar were sweating their arses off getting it to finish up. SCC starts to cure bloody fast!

I've just spec'd a 16mm for 38m run off a 50a breaker at 32a assumed load (with cable direct buried). Circa 5v drop iirc. 25mm is big, but depends on what you're running, and for the above I left headroom over an EV charger to supply power and lighting to a man-shed.

Chill out, for fecks sake!!!!!!! It'll be golden, just let the magic happen.

I think some rather messed up sequencing is afoot here tbh. I've never had a single issue and have used Ubbink for as long as I can remember. Only time I abandoned them was for a very steep roof on a project near Melton Mowbray where Nick from CVC got me some bespoke lead cowls made up to fit into the Ubbink downfacing 'female' bit. Worked a charm. Not a pork pie in sight Norm for us is to install the flashing and terminal with the roofers, then once weathertight the MVHR unit goes in, and we hook up?

The sequence for installing the Ubbink ones is correct, as the rain falls down the outer edge it steps out (where the final part hits the make part of the flashing) to give a robust weathertight seal. This job is an MBC PH TF with 400mm roof void. I just extended the foam ducting before installing these, then made everything off inside the attic plant room below. Im not sure what your exact issue is, as I don’t assume you’ll need the MVHR running before your roof is finished? You just lift the terminal out of the flashing and then install it, and if you need weathertight for a few weeks or months (or years ) you just drop the terminal back in and mechanically fix it in place.