Nickfromwales

It would be your room (house) thermostat, the thing you are referring to moving with 30m of cable. You can add a wireless one and leave the factory one in situ as just a dumb display / end user interface. Should be a 30 mins install max. This you can take with you room to room, so if you want to be comfortable at night, take it to the bedroom and plonk it near an internal wall away from any doors or windows. If you spend your day in the sitting room, plonk it in there all day. It's moveable as its wireless and battery powered. This is my one.

Why not go and buy a wireless room stat, from Screwfix or Toolstation, and ask them to fit it whilst they are there, then you can leave the other one where it is and zero cables to run. If he says no, just take it back and refund it.

🤐

Shouldn't the VCL finish behind the battens? If they're service battens, or is there additional insulation going in between?

Is it a stone-resin tray? If so, use flexible tile adhesive, it takes much better to the tray, and as you say using said mixture to scrub and key the underside so get a great bond.

Nobody sane!

We're in the Crystal Maze mate, there's no way out once you're in

This is only for 4-5 months of the year, and it's a heatpump so will be giving you some better COP than my gas boiler does, plus you can run on cheap rate overnight to offset the cost of heating from zero during peak times.

Neither do I. But I have a comfortable house all winter, because I run the heating on the lowest setting I can tolerate all winter, and yes, I get a bill from the gas company for the pleasure, which I accept needs paying.

OK, calm down.....we're only discussing options and explaining ourselves to you, based on your feedback and the fact you're living in a bitterly cold house when you have a full, brand new central heating system installed. You're reporting that it is useless, but you're not giving it a chance to prove that it works, in actuakity. The part you can't fathom is that my house is cheaper to heat by not turning the heating off, at all, all winter. None of us are sweating, none overheating, none are shivering cold and wrapped up in a duvet on an electric blanket. If you don't want a heating bill, don't turn the heating on. That means accepting you live in a stone fridge. If you don't want that, but something a bit less like a fridge, you need to turn the heating system on (timed to come on at 06:00 and to go off at 22:00 maybe) and TRY and see if that is better. Then try that for a month and see what the meter reading has jumped by. Number of units x the price per kwh that you pay, and divide by 2.5 for your COP and that'll give you a rough guide as to what your heating bill will actually be. If you don't (or won't) try then you'll never know. For completeness, I don't know anyone, anywhere, who will sit all winter freezing their arses off, even more so if they're saying that they're cold, or the house is borderline unacceptably cold to live in. We may have a breakthrough after all!!! Hoorah Yes, ask them to do this, and then see if it makes a difference. As above, choose a setback time (maybe the times I suggest above or think about this before the installer arrives to save time), but ask for this to be 15 degrees not 10!!! You need to open up to trying a few things and getting actual results to consider. You may not want the house to be heated per-se during the night, but you don't want it to be left to go stone cold, so a setback temp sounds like you may find a middle ground. If you want me to speak to the engineer with you, I am happy to support, we'd just need to be on the same page before their attendance or it'll be a shit-show. You can give the chap my mobile number and ask him to ring me.

Thank @-rick- This goes from a bad situation to a worse one then. WTF were these guys smoking when they thought this would self-regulate and not have any requirement for individual room temp control?!?

Simple low rate bank loan, and just buy it without all the attached faff?

Does it not already have a TRV on it? @zoothorn, do all the rads have TRVs on them?

Can't you ask a friend or family member to be in attendance to help you understand and decipher what is being said / how to use the controller? Loom on YouTube as I have said, and see if that helps. May be good homework for you before the chap arrives Monday as you will then begin to learn by watching this repeatedly until some of it begins to make sense. Pause the video, take screenshots, write notes.

This is the problem with hit and run installers, just fitting the stat where they can easily get a wire to it. They've also done a shit handover, and it's programmed to run completely ineffectively, as such a short heating window (unless @zoothorn told them it must be only on for a couple of hours to save money??).

Ok. Simple to explain, as follows. You are using less than £70 per calendar month on electricity / heating and hot water etc. The bills are estimated at the moment, and they must have a way of knowing where you're at in terms of consumption because they are slowly racking up a credit (hence they are saying that you are currently £300 in credit; this means your over-paying at £70, and giving Octopus more money PCM than you are using. Do you not have someone in the family who can speak to Octopus on your behalf to get some clarity? You should be submitting a meter reading to Octopus, at least once a year, so they can adjust your charge rate and credit. Do you have a smart meter? £700 PCM for energy consumption during winter is nothing to do with a castle-sized property. A "castle" would probably need £7000 PCM so please stop thinking that say £350 PCM in winter for a poorly insulated and draughty house is expensive, it is not. I'm doing probably close to £15 a day in winter, stone walls, 2G doors and windows, and draughty as feck. Gas boiler with rads, and they do not turn off day or night (we sleep just fine because we don't over-heat the house, we just heat it so it's not cold or 'chilly') so for me atm close to £450-500 PCM depending on how much we use the tumble drier. Summary: You cannot possibly think you will be able to feel even marginally warm in your exact house if you do not run the heating for longer. You are being told (asked by frustrated, helpful people on here) to set the thermostat to a temp that is simply acceptable to you, and to leave the heating system on constantly (24/7 means 24 hours a day, 7 days a week) and allow the house to heat itself throughout and arrive at an ambient. You are cold because you are not putting enough heat into the house, simple as, nothing to do with the heating system being effective you are just not using it for long enough each day. My thermostat is set to a comfort temp during the day, but that's probably only 1.0 - 0.5 degrees C higher than the night time temp, so I am saying that I do not turn my heating off all winter. If I turned the heating on and off (night to morning) and then on and off again Evening to night) every 24hrs like a timer as you're set up like at the moment then my house would be horribly cold and probably twice as expensive to heat. If you don't want to freeze at night just set a low temp for the nights, and a slightly warmer temp for the days, then the heating system won't cook you, it'll regulate and just give you a minimum temp that you don't want to be colder than. Running the heating constantly doesn't mean it's constantly heating, it just means you wont get cold. You need to look on YouTube for the controller for your heat pump and watch, listen and learn how to use it from there, as that will show you the short cuts to get your heating on as you need it. Currently the short heating programs are useless and that's why you are cold. It's also why your heating bills are so small, because you're not using any heating. Once you learn how to control this thing, which will become easier the more you try, and learn by making mistakes, the problem will go away. You can then time the hot water to be hot when you want it to be hot.

So no mechanical fans in kitchen / utility / bathrooms etc?

If the air can get in, yes.

The flow and return are both 32mm pipes in the centre of a 160mm duct, fully filled with EPS insulation. The two smaller ducts are for the 230v mains and low voltage signal cables.

During winter, don’t forget you need to pressure test with air and NOT water And make sure the automatic air vent cap is closed tightly or air will pass through that and it’ll look like a leak. Some water and fairy liquid can be brushed over fittings to see if any air is leaking; it bubbles up and you can see it straight away.

A previous client put it on gumtree as free to collect, and someone took the lot.

The grey insulation was left on as it was minus 2°C, and we couldn’t feel our fingers. Finesse had left the building! I insulated the flows to various areas in line with the clients wishes to mitigate against possible localised overheating (but doubt this is actually an issue). This was all simply cut back to top of concrete and dressed in afterwards. FYI the black pipe coming up to the right was the pre insulated underground pipe to the ASHP.

If moisture was routinely buffered any further into the fabric of a domestic residence, that’s just too far and has not been addressed or controlled properly. Seasonally, perhaps this is an acceptable swing, but day to day it should be the immediate room interior surfaces at most. I dislike this approach, and am not afraid to say it! Grab the heat and moisture, use it to better facilitate heat recovery, and get the MVHR in and running. Tin hat time.

Amen!🙏