Nickfromwales

Good man! The grey T to the far right......... Does that boss any waste pipes out the back of it?

Ah, ok, so an “overlay” system. 👍

It’s been in storage for >2 years.

I’ve just had to convince a client to boot his builder and gang off site, very serious stuff that he was trying to cover up…… A friend said to me, “you’re the grim reaper for builders”. I am if they're incompetent, deceptive, thieving fcuktards. I was there for MVHR only, but couldn’t (in good conscience) hold my tongue any longer. Said chap pulled me aside on site and tried the bully tactics to get me to keep schtum. Didn’t work. “Don’t let the door hit you on the ass on the way out”, and out he went. I’ve met some excellent ones, but sadly they are very few and very far between, but from the good ones that I have been lucky to have worked with I picked up some great knowledge, and I use it on every new project to continue to better myself. Giving a feck costs nothing, but quality costs more as it consumes time. If someone doesn't value quality, and doesn’t want to pay me for my time and experience, then I walk away and let them suffer mediocrity. Always costs them more time and money, but you cannot educate pork.

Use your rage to punch-compact the bastard

If it's just a garage, go with the cheapest solution. End of. Block layers are a-plenty, and masonry is something that requires zero thought.

Pipes routed into the P5? 18mm is a thin board to compromise.

In that case you just need to choose for yourself, and ensure any details for layering / compaction are observed. Have this chat BEFORE anyone starts work, not after...............

I've installed wet UFH over FF P5 22mm decks many times, and screeded over them; from 'just enough' to ~50mm. I used 16mm Pert AL, never use anything else, as laying UFH is somewhere OTT should be the standard....? alarm bells are ringing.

Well......guess who is to blame then!!!! They are just covering their feck up!!!!!!! I'd be asking for copies of all the delivery notes etc, but a kitchen in storage for 2 years is one thing, but worse is a kitchen put into storage without you going through the inventory and checklist before accepting it. I think it's time to evaluate being alive, and consider what other people have to deal with in comparison. This is a pita, but not life or death.

Check with the SE, they will have specified?

Diplomacy isn't working. You can't repeat the action and expect a different result, so stop him from doing any more work and ask him if he's interested in the rest of the job (or not). His response will be what decides your new direction / next decision. Tell him straight, no quivery top lip, that you have slept on it and cannot accept the discrepancy. End of feckin chat. If he shrugs his shoulders and packs up and fecks off, good riddance. If he decides to offer up a solution to rectify, then tell him it has to be removed on his time and not yours as it should have been right first time. Stop tolerating useless assholes. I wouldn't get away with this, how can he????

............but apart from that it's all going swimmingly. A pic without the insulation would help, and why doesn't the white pipe tag into the soil in the boxing in?

Time to put your foot down then?

Whilst in pub, get text from plaster moaning about all the other pipes in the other places……. 30 - 15, play on 🤣.

Then I’ve been very successfully “stretching” myself for the last couple of decades. 1). Drill hole. 2). Insert pipe through hole. 3). See 1. 4). Count to 21 and stop. 🤷‍♂️🙃

I’m on my way. I can do it for £5999, on mates rates. Can’t you just find a decent local plumber (“heating engineer……”) to put pipes from A-B with you supplying? It’s ridiculously simple work, easier than putting a combi boiler in.

There are times when folk cant see the woods for the trees. Just use copper off the manifolds, then a hep2o connector to concert back to plastic once through the fire wall. ”Simples!”

Too much kit spread all over the house. Radial methodology is supposed to do away with such complication.

Without a full topological survey of the entire area, it's impossible to advise. Some idea on possible permeability further down may offer a solution, but there is just not enough info here to even have a stab at it, sorry.

You'll probably be his only fan.......

Make sure the door to the bathroom has either a transfer grille, or an 8-10mm undercut on the bottom of the door, to let air in at the same volume that the extractor wants to remove it. Overrun timer is a must, my bathroom fan runs for 30-40 mins after each activation, to completely remove any moisture; it was shite at first, then I realised I'd no air coming in to the room, so chopped 10mm off the bottom of the door and then the magic happened. I'm always rushed doing any work in my own house so often don't see the woods for the trees.

Then it's not a problem.

You'd still need to set out the whole floor, to get the joints / lines to marry up? Not seen the pattern or style, so it's difficult for me to reply 100%.

I usually cut a strip of self adhesive neoprene (20mm thick) along the lower rear of the unit, so when it top hangs and the bottom falls back against the wall it is on to something soft. A slice of pipe insulation will suffice, but if you're happy then no need to do anything further. Thanks for updating the thread