Nickfromwales

Apparently not, but I am as bemused as you are. Men in white coats holding clipboards say differently, so who am I to contest...... Disclaimer: I contest EVERYTHING!

Better late than never lol! 1. Either is fine, but typically a 92.5 is obtuse so the better choice for a smooth fall; the socket gives the extra bit of wiggle room if you need to increase the fall slightly. 2. The socket has to go into the wall, or the stack is way too far off the wall. I core out at 117, and then just chip away gingerly until the knuckle of the fitting will find its forever home. Sand and cement mix to patch back in, foam for the internal gap. 3. OCD is the killer here, and I'll always try and have flow going into a socket, from a spigot, but in actuality it doesn't matter a single jot, so just do whatever is easiest or what is convenient on materials on site. The golden rule is to cut the pipe square, and chamfer properly, silicone lube both before mating, and life will be wonderful for a very long time.

All good, afaic, but most designers will favour it (having the extract location) being placed outside the shower area. No idea why, but in small rooms I guess it’s completely moot.

Oh lordy……

“Clean your panels in spring, folks!!!”

110w improvement after cleaning?

If it’s already installed, not a great deal you can do now, other than drop the cavity insulation down into it. The biggest issue here will be where the internal tongue of steel protrudes into the internal block leaf, so best practice here would be to use an insulated plasterboard to finish the block wall, making 1000% sure that nothing like dot & dab (board adhesive) etc is in contact with the steel. Covering it externally will be of benefit, with perhaps Compacfoam or PIR, but without seeing a section drawing of where the head of the window ends up it’s a bit difficult to say much more. Can you pencil up a sketch? Architect drawing for this detail? PS, I have hidden your duplicate thread to keep the replies in one place

You think manufacturers would simply omit 20-30mm sections of frame in all 4 corners, leaving the metal sides flush with the top of the glass to allow this runoff, but I suppose the glass edge is then too vulnerable.

PV panels laid flat (sub 12°) won’t ‘self-clean’.

Beautiful words, softly spoken.

I thought you'd never ask...............

I very much doubt that will be an issue here at all, and I'd say go with the green option and stay off your neighbours property / asset. Perfectly simple and a 'good' solution, so KISS.

Does the manufacturer say these can talk to each other, and go 'master' and 'slave'? Eg your car for work at 06:30 MUST be charged, but SWMBO's can be at 50% and that'll do for 08:00 for any run to the shop (kinda thing).

What have they done here, and can you follow as original?

Quite a few on here have done basements by a 3rd party, and then plonked a TF atop, as most TF companies won't touch a basement (or anything sub / semi-subterranean) with a shitty stick. May be a lot simpler for you to go with ICF all the way, but with timber for posi joists / internal walls etc. One point of contact for responsibility / coordination / liability, reducing risk massively (and avoiding errors and the blame game).

Hi and welcome. Glad you're not looking to bother with the PH cape and matching slippers, as you probably need to live 1.5x to get all that extra bother and cost back. Timberframe or ICF or other in mind?

I find that quite contradictory, but also two disciplines there which need separating; heat pumps, I agree, PV on roofs, disagree. PV should be subsidised and imposed; how else do you expect to preserve the greenbelt?? PV installed en-mass on every (suitable) bare, open, sun-soaked roofs / other elevations should be mandatory. Micro inverted panels for simple hook-up, near zero impact on the home / property owners, no excuses. We’re busy frying the planet, almost in ignorance, and this initiative would help a LOT.

Let’s go knock at the door of No.10 and straighten this mess out for them? Just needs a couple of months with self-preservation, corruption, greed, elitism, foul imbalance of wealth…….and a few other things set aside…… Oh, wait. That’ll upset too many fukctards who have their fingers (more like both hands) in our till.

Nothing whatsoever. I am only considering an option for not mechanically, purposefully pumping fresh air into a room (ablaze) to promote combustion. In a room / compartment that has the doors and windows shut, a fire becomes involved far less quickly; the MVHR would compromise this delay by ‘fanning the flames’. PS, there are zero fire extinguishing or retarding gasses that wouldn’t kill a person in minutes, or less.

In a world steaming towards an ‘all electric’ future, this is inevitable. I do, however, believe strongly that the grid / government should be subsidising attaching 2-3 panels to the roof of every home in the UK, feeding into the grid, to bolster micro-generation and reverse feed a struggling grid. Look at the volume of area of commercial buildings that are just bare paint?!? No need to attack the greenbelt tbh, other than cost-convenience. People who cry about mandatory PV panels going on to their roofs should talk to their future grand / great grandchildren, who will call them idiots for not doing this sooner. If the entirety of the UK are generating throughout the day, this would make a huge impact; subsidy could be then offset by not needing new substations / such aggressive or major nationwide reinforcement of the grid etc, and it’s blisteringly high cost to implement (which will always come out of the public purse, howsoever). But, what do I know….. 🤷‍♂️

Yup. Lots of clients ask if they need to turn it off for x/y/z reasons, including having doors / windows / sliders all flung wide open all afternoon etc, and the answer is “no”. Turn it on, walk away, adhere STRICTLY to the maintenance schedule; for a new build I say ditch the filters at 90 days in, clean again 90 days on, then clean at 6 month anniversary, then biannually for life. Just a quick flick over with a hoover is all that’s needed, after the building phase crap is gone via ditching of the first set of filters as aforementioned.

Do you plan on 2 EV’s? Both charging simultaneously? I thought the whole point of the CT clamps was that these give the house loads mains priority and the EV charger is told to use the remaining capacity, only until the house has its fill, and thus modulates fully? If they both have such functionality then the mains should be split 3 ways, and the max never exceeded. I can only assume that you would tell the EV charger what the incoming supply fuse is rated at so it can ‘do the maths’?

@Bluebaron, accept this kind offer perhaps, from someone experienced and very knowledgable. There are professionals on here who support other members ‘behind the scenes’, a trusted few that put others before themselves (probably too often ). Reach out!

We digress…..again….. 🙃

Winter solar will give you sub 15% of the installed capacity, if you’re lucky enough to be power-down during a rare sunny spell… Cheap, sizeable battery / hybrid inverter option with a connection point for a generator will work splendidly. Influx of solar energy will add itself in parallel, and the genny (2-3kw) only needs to fire up to charge the batteries for the night, or top up during dark days. If outages are very frequent and problematic then just get an LPG genny set up permanently in an out building or genny shed, so you don’t have to feck about each time, setting up to restore or maintain power.