Nickfromwales

If the cost is low to do so, then yes.

Still only sorts any leaks behind the skirting boards, and none in the remainder of the fabric of the house. Taking the skirting off and sockets out is still two knives vs a bullet.

No. You have a very good option available to you, via AeroBarrier UK. The caveat is you’d have to buy shares in 3M for the amount of masking and taping up you’d need to do. IF you 100% want to do this, then this is your only sensible route. Ask them to quote, based on M2, and if you can swallow that then I’ll tell you what you’ll need to do to prep for the day of ‘the treatment’.

That’s just bringing a knife to a gunfight though.

As built airtightness test is required for b regs sign off. Go directly to the BCO and ask for the test results which ‘they must have had presented to them’….. Prob be a lot of squirming from anyone you approach, but I’d go directly to the BCO and start there.

Eh? You mean weathertight?

Would probably still need attenuation for when the pond is full?!?

Loads of threads / content on here This one specifically mentions the cost effective split tape

It’s not fear, it’s fact-based industry feedback that drives my comments. The foils micro-fracture over time, and that starts the process of degradation. Solarwatt stated (iirc) <0.5% degradation per annum and that was on the cell itself, as the cell and its connecting metals are hermetically sealed; this is largely the job of the foil in a glass / foil panel. Your 1982 panel is quite rare, I’d say nearly unique! Defo not a Friday panel if it’s suffered zero degradation in over 40 years.

Amen. If, whilst a room full of people are turning a drama into a crisis, you can’t tell everyone to be quiet and take control, then the jobs doomed. The number of times I’ve been brought in for “disaster” management (by accident) is insane; I mean I wasn’t there to do this but I simply spotted a major feck up that everyone was oblivious to and pointed it out to the clients, who showed the ‘builders’, both of whom then asked me how the hell can it be put right?? I firstly point them back to the architect and SE, who both either ignored the problem or failed to spot it (whilst the job was on a screen), and they usually just shrug their shoulders or try to blame someone else. Then I sort it, and the world continues to revolve. After one house was mid-construction (ICF) I had to create 3 plant rooms out of thin air, and both architect and SE were as much help as a deaf mute. SE was utterly obtuse to be honest, a completely unhelpful cock. Shan’t be passing his details on anytime soon…. 👎 This is why some people manage or consult, some people draw things but cannot build them, and others hit things until they fit. Opportunities to save money, value-engineer, make improvements without significant investment etc can only be done at the pre-construction level, so getting good advice very early on is priceless. Also very important to employ the “two heads are better than one” method, and never be afraid to ask someone to look at what you’re looking at, for a simple second opinion; very simple and effective for times where you can be spinning one plate too many and be missing the trees and the woods. @flanagaj is now bringing in the troops to support with the pour, and after the dust has settled I’d bet a round of drinks it’ll be agreed that discussing it here first, and acting on good advice, was indeed the right thing to do. Recently a groundwork crew were busy making very good progress on a rectangular foundation, when my client said to them “you’re building my house the wrong way round!”. The issue was quickly resolved, but they then said the drawings never came with a compass or a topo overlayed, so they literally had zero information as to where the house should be facing, and it wasn’t the first time that this had happened…. . Yikes!!! These feck ups happen at all levels, so it’s defo true that it’s not how you messed up, but how you immediately take responsibility and ownership, and how quickly you can turn things around; even better is when you can do this without breaking into a sweat. The fundamental thing here is knowing your own limitations, as having balls bigger than your brain is not going to serve you well.

Excuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuse me!?

Show them the pipe, where it goes, and that next door is also on a combined network sewer. You can provide percolation test results, DIY'd, to fortify.

In a nutshell. If it's still standing with no 'San Andreas' cracks then it's time to drop to DEFCON 5.

You'll need to find out if it's 'adopted' or not. Contact the utility company and then if it's adopted then you should be able to connect into it. Will be a gift if you can.

We may need to conduct Buildhub's first ever exorcism..........

I think the cells are bi directional, so when you go glass / glass you inherit some degree of uplift if irradiance is bounced off something and hits the back / underside of the panels, and afaik there aren’t any panels / manufacturers where anyone would purposefully place cells on the rear. You still get salespeople telling folk that light reflected by the moon can add to generation…….all of these idiots are dynamite lovers with a 2” fuse lol.

Feel free to post any recommendations for bonafide companies / individuals, but please share contact details by PM upon request to avoid bots & scams 👍. You can PM me too please, always looking to keep the little black book populated with good people

Maybe cheaper, but not by much, to have a glass / foil panel with far less longevity.

It doesn’t. You just discount it.

If going in trays this is of vital importance. If on a rail system, not so much, but a very good point!

Can you go back to them and ask to do 2 layers of FR PB + skim instead? You can even offer to use 2x 15mm to really give the BCO’s goolies a good rub.

I’d buy glass / glass vs glass / foil, as these have much better longevity.

Who has asked for this? Usually the standard plasterboard with a skim plaster coat attains 30 mins, without needing to then dress the steels behind it. Have you been asked for 60 min as your multiple stories? Can be easily achieved with 12.5mm FR plasterboard, possibly 2 layers if BCO requests it, and just accept a slightly lower ceiling. Much easier and quicker (and better).

I get apprehensive, still, after 30 years on the tools. Concrete pours are quite full on, even for the initiated. Maybe it’s time to reach out to a local groundworker to support? Would be money very well spent, because if this goes tits up it’s a 4-figure ‘catastrophe’.

It’s got to be cheaper and simpler to just whack in more fixed panels, and either go 50/50 East/West, or all true South? Maintenance and cost are big turn offs for automating this type of rig.