Nickfromwales

When they respond, post back here.

They are brittle and have far less tolerance to snapping, vs regular wood screws. If he put plenty in then I think you'd be Ok, but if few and far between, then it could be a problem. Are these still exposed? If so, just pump a woodscrew in next to each one.

You'll prob need next to feck all heat up there anyways, so go with the slimmer option.

You may do well to read the hundreds of threads on here that answer this question, and all those to follow Have a quick search, you'll soon be up to your eyes in info for this subject.

Can a 10 or 12mm pipe be part of that 17mm thickness?

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Needs no more thought or complication. Lay membrane, nail-clip the pipe down, pour screed, go to pub. It's THAT complicated

Yes, but also preclude the use of liquid screed, as it just runs under it and floats it, save the few screws crying themselves to death trying to prevent this happening. Dog. Shit.

Yup. Liquid Cemfloor screed straight onto that, 50-55mm thick, 60mm in 'places', job done.

They all do, as they're useless lazy twats. Drywall screws are brittle as feck, and shouldn't be used for these loads.

Maybe don't hang around the bus depot or retirement homes

Defo over the ply. Get some tile primer (Ultra flexi-prime etc) and water it down 50/50, and saturate the floor with a good few repeated coats. Don't let it dry. Then go on with neat primer, and then apply Mapei builders screed from Screwfix etx. Mix to the recommended consistency, and then add 1/4 pint of water to it. This must go down whilst the primer is wet. Pour, leave, and enjoy.

They all hit the plate, other than the 1120. It's zero to do with design.....just the size of the wall you have and the size of a WC seat. Fitted boatloads of these and nobody ever mentioned it. Life goes on.

Just change the branch! You'll still pick the waste up exactly the same way.

Mark them on the walls, or get a tape out and start noting datums and spacings etc.

If double-boarded and skimmed, there will be a huge amount of weight on those single drywall screws. First thing to do is speak to the manufacturer and ask what is required here. I'd be putting 2 screws in at each point of 'suspension', which will have zero negatives and a lot of positives. You think old boy Roy read the specs??

It'll flex regardless.

Ok, thanks. I'll book myself into Specsavers tomorrow. My only issue is, that is a T branch, and should be a Y branch like the other if poop is dropping into it from "Le Bog".

Nope. You get the benefit of the central area of ceiling being 'suspended', but at perimeters the walls and ceilings become one connected mass by default.

@Omnibuswoman I hasten to add, the old boy should be marking the posi joists on the plasterboard so zero screws go into these. Using 25mm screws is very good 'buffoon insurance', but the moral is to ONLY be screwing the PB into loose RB and NOT into the posi joists as the PB will then want to keep pulling up and pinch the RB tight, the opposite of what you want. Have this chat before he fits a single PB, and TELL HIM what you want.

Looks ok / good to me, but I am a stickler so always tell my guys to put 2 screws into each joist as I'm not a fan of these only having one screw in them. The bars at the outside walls are fine; at the end of the day the walls don't move, so where the ceilings meet walls, get scrim taped, and get plastered, you won't actually want any movement there as the plaster / paint would crack.

Different shades of a discontinued colour, is my worry!

All your emitters are within the heated and airtight envelope, so it's quite moot tbh.

Why have the voids from the eggbox? Why buy the eggbox? Pipes on the deck, 16mm hammer in nail-clips, screed.

Gravity equalises it, so "no deal, Noel", . It'll still read absolutely 100% accurately.