Temp

This was a youtube recommendation. Just a pity they are about £150 each according to comments.

A full oak frame looks great could be quite expensive. It can also be problematic sealing the infill panels as they have to cope with shrinkage and movement of the oak. All possible but do your research into the issues. It's possible to build a brick and block house with lots of internal oak details that aren't structural. I recommend making a scrap book with photos of houses and house details that you like and use that to help brief your Architect. Your Architect will need to try and find a compromise between what you like, what you can afford and what the planners will allow on your site. Its worth thinking about your attitude to risk. For example how critical is it to remain within the budget? Is it an absolute hard limit or a softer target? Make sure your Architect understands this. Its too easy for them to get carried away and design something you cant afford to build. Architects, Quantity Surveyors, Structural Engineers fees can add quite a lot to the bill. Typically they like to charge a % of the build cost. I would avoid this if possible. Negotiate a flat fee. Otherwise it means they have less incentive to reduce costs. If you get to the end of your build and decide to splurge on an expensive kitchen the Architect might be in for say 10% of the extra cost. Think carefully if you really need the Architect to be involved at all stages of the project or just for the design phase? Perhaps just until you have Building Control Approval? Depends how comfortable you are managing Builders and projects in general.

Was that on the phone or on site? I dont think he realised it was going to be close to the boundary. Permitted development rights allow 3m for a single pitch or 4m for a dual pitch roof. However if any part is within 2m of the boundary the whole building must be under 2.5m. See points 7 and 8.. https://ecab.planningportal.co.uk/uploads/miniguides/outbuildings/Outbuildings.pdf That pretty much means it will be a flat roof unless you move it away from the boundary or submit a Planning Application.

Copper would be nice. Solders easily and you can get chemicals to give it a bronze like patina or green verdigris etc.

As @SteamyTea said the maths suggests more like 30-45 mins to go from 10C to 60C. The boiler will remain "ON" as long as the tank calls for heat (eg thermostat not satisfied). If the tank coil is too small then the return temperature will rise too much and that increases the flow temperature. At some limit, and depending on the type of boiler (gas vs oil) the boiler either modulates the flame down (so it produces less than 30kW) or cycles on and off (so the average is less than 30kW).

I thought these days it would be possible to find a policy that would provide you with a third party IBG for the flat roof. Google wasnt very helpful but did find these two possibilities... https://www.peacockinsurance.co.uk/insurance-backed-guarantee?&ForceSource=56&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkOqZBhDNARIsAACsbfKFEtWWSQteHZsqiAhNOfRqEq54-chjzTDqwP9Ijgh5DYqSEQUIraIaAhiqEALw_wcB https://suretybondsandguarantees.co.uk/insurance_backed_guarantees.aspx?utm_term=insurance backed guarantee flat roof&utm_campaign=UK+|+en+|+Search+|+Leads+|+All_A+|+All_D+|+G_IBG&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=4949275839&hsa_cam=15709411646&hsa_grp=130327185054&hsa_ad=571900546477&hsa_src=g&hsa_tgt=kwd-548100837586&hsa_kw=insurance backed guarantee flat roof&hsa_mt=e&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkOqZBhDNARIsAACsbfI8goxl3AjCLB0DXvrhunM0wijC-WQz4g95JkrLySkaBU211QEuCCcaAofLEALw_wcB

It could catch up with him but Its very rare for there to be much come back. Usually the new buyer discovers the problem and decides to try and just ride out the 4 years that the planners have to take enforcement action. About the changes.. PP not needed for the internal changes to the bathrooms unless it's a Listed Building. New drainage might require Building Control Approval. I don't think PP is needed to pave the front garden even in a conservation area - provided the new surface is permeable or he deals with the rainwater run off on site. He might need permission for a dropped kerb if he didn't have a driveway at all or he has made the existing dropped kerb wider.

Its for lazy sods like me who cant be bothered to get out of their armchair to turn on the light when it gets too dark to read the paper 🙂 Na I use them mainly as energy monitors. Showed us that our MVHR was using way more than I expected. Due to current high energy prices I've now got it on a schedule saving about 30%.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09QQCWVNN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 For £32 these will monitor the energy consumption of 4 devices and allow you to turn them on and off using an App. Can also set up timers to turn them on and off automatically.

Looks OK to me. I was going to check it's for outdoor use but it mentions use on gates. Only other thing I can think of is water freezing it up in winter but hopefully they have thoughf of that.

+1 It should drape down into the gutter but doesn't need to be very long.

I think Permitted Development rights dissappear when you kock down the original and return when the new 9ne is complete (if not removed by a condition). http://planninglawblog.blogspot.com/2021/05/partial-demolition-in-advance-of.html

Actually here it says the drape can be 10-15mm so 19mm counter battens would also be OK.. https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/help-and-advice/project-guides/pitched-roofing/how-to-install-breathable-roof-membrane/

The counter batten is normally to raise the membrane off the insulation/osb. Not all membrane is approved for use in contact. The membrane should also drape between the rafters and not be pressed against the underside of the tile batten. This is to allow water blown under tiles to run down and not pool above a tile batten as this can cause batten rot. I thought the normal drape recommended was about 25mm so I'd go for 25mm thick counter battens. Edit: Counter battens can also be installed above the membrane to raise the tile battens off the membrane for same reason.

If you get the system drained and flushed out remember to put corrosion inhibitor back in afterwards. Some of these "Heating system plans" don't include that which is why I never sign up to them.

Just for info.. I heard an advert on the radio yesterday for Quickbooks. They were saying that very soon even small businesses will have to do their VAT return electronically/digitally. Paper VAT receipts won't be acceptable soon. Doesn't affect self build yet as far as I can tell.

Sometimes it's worth the drive to collect fragile items. Pain I know.

I think that Declaration is only to avoid them processing an application only to find the owner doesnt know about it and objects. There is a rather old book that's worth a read.. "How to Stop and Influence Planning Permission" by Roy Speer. The basic ideas will still apply but some details like deadlines may have changed.

BCO may still want figures to prove it though.

Also double check the flow and return pipes from the buffer to the manifold aren't swapped over. On a shower mixer this can cause the cartridge to runaway to the end stop, eg full hot or full cold. Edit: Not sure this would cause the symptoms you have though.

Other thing to check would be the pump direction. Usually an arrow on it somewhere.

Check that. The picture here says "6. Manual Return Valves" https://www.wundagroup.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/M07-generic-Wunda-premium-Manifold-25-4-2018.pdf

Appears metal open web rafters are similar to solid wood.. http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16357

I'm pretty sure open web joists would have better thermal properties than solid (eg less thermal bridging). I'm sure the makers would answer that question asked on its own. Might even be on their Web site somewhere. So perhaps see if the calculation for solid timber rafters is OK and add a comment that open web will be better.

Do you know what U-Value was specified for the roof? What U-Value would be needed to meet the Building Regulations? I assume the insulation between the rafters behind plasterboard rather than on the floor of the loft, so not easy to top up.