Temp

Plus 2. We found our builder by driving around looking for building sites with nice houses. When I told them I was going to need a builder they all hapilly showed me around. Nothing like an unannounced inspection for getting a good idea what they are like. One or two sites were horror stories. Look for attention to details like air tightness, neat plumbing or evidence they are protecting wood flooring or stair cases. Try and ask a few questions. Had a few tell me "You dont need to worry about that we take care of it". Others took time to explain or show me how they were doing it on the house they were working on.

I was thinking you could run three core & earth to each PIR. So you have power to the PIR and switched live coming back to a box in the house. Then run switched live to the light(s) from there. Put the relay or onto isolators in another box in the house. I 3D printed a box for the Arduino with a wall for isolation but it could do with improving.

I'd be wary about fixing to the coping. I'd be concerned about the coping coming unstuck off the top of the wall. Better fix into the wall itself if possible.

Never seen that type before but I'd try looking in the hole in that last photo to see if there is a screw or Allen key screw in there that releases the cover or even the whole door. Take care, I'd want help to support the door before undoing anything and put packing under the door to take the weight.

I used one of these to interface mains to an Arduino. It's used to detect when my boiler pump is running. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-1-Channel-Bit-AC-220V-Optocoupler-Isolation-Module-Board-Adaptive-For-PLC-/154400482521?pageci=204718bc-c2f2-4557-a2dd-49ea4e2a55af&redirect=mobile

I think I would ask the planners for a copy of your 1978 planning grant and check PDR we're definitly removed. Probably we're if they say so but still check. I would also consider making a planning application for the same thing as your prior approval/permitted development application. It might be they only revoked it because you don't have PDR not because of other planning reasons. In addition speak to a planning consultant/lawyer about them revoking your permission as I don't think they can do that if the original approval was granted in error. See my post above. It might be the way to proceed would be to file an application for a Certificate of Lawfulness based on the revoked planning approval and citing that they cannot revoke it on the basis of an error. But this is definitly one for an expert to advise on before you do anything.

Is it causing a problem? I think my trap is even shallower. If the stack is open vented, and nothing else connects into the pipe between the bath and the stack then I think it will probably be fine. I think digging the floor out for the trap is OK as well. You could raise the bath on a plinth but that doesn't always look great.

+1 It's easy to find people on the Internet complaining about extractor fans on neighbours wall pointing in their direction. Avoid if at all possible. I don't think there is anything in the building regs regarding the location of extractor fans (but there is a 600mm seperation for boiler flues in Part J). The only thing I can think of is that regular cooking smells might be considered a statutory nuisance.

I think I would ask a planning consultant about this. https://www.no5.com/media/publications/what-do-you-do-when-youve-been-granted-planning-permission-by-administrative-error/

Common problem is sludge settling out in the summer and blocking pipes. If the new pump doesn't fix things try turning off all rads that get hot so water is forced through the cold ones. Each time a new rad gets hot shut it off. Repeat until they have all been hot at least once then you can reopen them. Once it's all been stirred up I'd drain and flush the system a few times. When happy it's all working put the right amount of Fernox F1 in the system.

I guess they have no other access route so offering to buy out the easement isn't an option.

We're Bosch fans, mostly because it's easy to get parts and fix them myself. Our Bosch washer is 18 years old. Dishwasher and fridge/freezer about 16 years.

Not that far. We only dropped our Grant down to the minimum recommend in the manual. The manual says this actually improves efficiency slightly. It's been fine for 15 years. Our Grant heats a thermal store and we still got cycling on the standard jet. Reducing the jet size wasn't enough to eliminate short cycling. I ended up fitting a bigger water pump so that with the boiler dial set on maximum the flow temperature never gets hot enough to shut the burner off. The burner now runs until the thermal store is satisfied. This probably wont work if you don't have a thermal store/buffer. What will probably happen is the return will get hotter and that will cause the flow temperature to increase causing cycling again. It might also drop out of condensing mode. Do you have a lot of small UFH zones? You could try configuring them so you have one stat controlling multiple or all zones. Less control but might help reduce cycling a bit.

I think some extractors can be configured for extract or recirculate. Our extractor doesn't seem to cause our mvhr any issues. Nor the wood burner. Perhaps you could try one as an extractor and reconfigure it to recirculate if it causes an issue?

@Tamdray PM sent.

Tag, you're it.. @pocster

You probably don't have time but.. What foundations does it have? One option might be to ask the BCO if he would accept a surveyors report (possibly from the supplier) saying the foundations are adequate for the construction, and that there is some sort of damp proofing built in and U-values meet building regulations etc.

That makes sense. It's meant to be the front door but Building Control have some flexibility to allow it to be another door (back door or patio etc)

Does it coincide with the heating going on or off? Heating pipes can make quite a bang as they expand and contract.

It depends on the type of insulation, the porosity of the bricks and exposure to wind driven rain. I think the concensus on this forum is that the grey coated bead systems are less prone to issues than loose fibre fill types. But I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong. Is the outside brick or render? If its render in good condition then that can virtually eliminate the risk of damp because the render stops water getting into the outer leaf of bricks. ASHP work best on very well insulated houses. The flow temperature is lower than for a fa's or oil boiler so you either need UFH or bigger than normal rads. You wouldn't normally "change" the insulation when fitting ASHP, but you might add to it instead. Mineral wool vs PIR... if you just compare the raw material PIR is a better insulator for a given thickness. But it can be harder to install between joists or rafters because it has to be cut exactly to size or gaps foamed to seal them. Mineral wool can be compressed a bit to fit uneven gaps. You might consider putting mineral wool between the floor joists AND then PIR under the joists where sheets can be butted together without having to cut them. Butt joints can be tapped to improve airtightness. If you want UFH then that works best with tile or stone flooring. Carpets and Engineered wood can be used but a bit more care is needed. If you have the headroom an UFH system that goes on top of the existing worp floor might be worth a look. You would still put most of the insulation below the floorboards though. .

I wouldn't worry too much about this difference. Many houses are built with blockwork cavity walls so have blockwork on the inside. Others have a timber frame with just plasterboard on the inside of the insulation. EWI: Some people like the stabilising effect that the increased thermal mass on the inside brings. IWI: Others prefer the faster response that this has. Much more important is the practicalities of installing either option. Can you fit EWI under the eaves without it looking daft? Lots of rainwater and down pipes to move or? Nice brickwork or render currently?

Many councils have a separation of dwellings policy. Can have various names eg "Seperation Distances and Amenity SPD". This specifies things like the minimum distance between the back of one house and another to reduce overlooking. (Eg between two facing bedroom window's or similar). See if you can get a copy from your planning office. If they meet this its unlikely the planners will consider it a problem. Here is one for East Saffs... ttps://www.eaststaffsbc.gov.uk/sites/default/files/docs/planning/planningpolicy/spd/Separation%20Distances%20and%20Amenity%20SPD_Final_Jun19.pdf The distance is less where one building doesn't have habitable windows so important the planners realise yours aren't shown.

I make my own. You can get thin bleach from Amazon if you can't find it in supermarkets. Dilute at least 50/50 with water. You can spray it with a garden watering sprayer (eg Pump type Hoselock) but it will damage the sprayer over time if you leave it in the sprayer and don't rinse it out. Think I would spray and then roller it with a paint roller to get even cover and dry off any runs. Plenty of ventilation to let it dry out.

I think I would apply for a Certificate of Lawfulness for the existing building on the grounds that it's been there more than 4 years. That would allow you to replace it with something similar. Then submit a Planning Application for something better looking. Do not take it down or allow it to fall down before you have planning permission for what you want.

I would hire a Planning Consultant to review your file and advise if its worth appealing or go straight to a new/revised design.