Temp

It could catch up with him but Its very rare for there to be much come back. Usually the new buyer discovers the problem and decides to try and just ride out the 4 years that the planners have to take enforcement action. About the changes.. PP not needed for the internal changes to the bathrooms unless it's a Listed Building. New drainage might require Building Control Approval. I don't think PP is needed to pave the front garden even in a conservation area - provided the new surface is permeable or he deals with the rainwater run off on site. He might need permission for a dropped kerb if he didn't have a driveway at all or he has made the existing dropped kerb wider.

Its for lazy sods like me who cant be bothered to get out of their armchair to turn on the light when it gets too dark to read the paper 🙂 Na I use them mainly as energy monitors. Showed us that our MVHR was using way more than I expected. Due to current high energy prices I've now got it on a schedule saving about 30%.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09QQCWVNN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 For £32 these will monitor the energy consumption of 4 devices and allow you to turn them on and off using an App. Can also set up timers to turn them on and off automatically.

Looks OK to me. I was going to check it's for outdoor use but it mentions use on gates. Only other thing I can think of is water freezing it up in winter but hopefully they have thoughf of that.

+1 It should drape down into the gutter but doesn't need to be very long.

I think Permitted Development rights dissappear when you kock down the original and return when the new 9ne is complete (if not removed by a condition). http://planninglawblog.blogspot.com/2021/05/partial-demolition-in-advance-of.html

Actually here it says the drape can be 10-15mm so 19mm counter battens would also be OK.. https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/help-and-advice/project-guides/pitched-roofing/how-to-install-breathable-roof-membrane/

The counter batten is normally to raise the membrane off the insulation/osb. Not all membrane is approved for use in contact. The membrane should also drape between the rafters and not be pressed against the underside of the tile batten. This is to allow water blown under tiles to run down and not pool above a tile batten as this can cause batten rot. I thought the normal drape recommended was about 25mm so I'd go for 25mm thick counter battens. Edit: Counter battens can also be installed above the membrane to raise the tile battens off the membrane for same reason.

If you get the system drained and flushed out remember to put corrosion inhibitor back in afterwards. Some of these "Heating system plans" don't include that which is why I never sign up to them.

Just for info.. I heard an advert on the radio yesterday for Quickbooks. They were saying that very soon even small businesses will have to do their VAT return electronically/digitally. Paper VAT receipts won't be acceptable soon. Doesn't affect self build yet as far as I can tell.

Sometimes it's worth the drive to collect fragile items. Pain I know.

I think that Declaration is only to avoid them processing an application only to find the owner doesnt know about it and objects. There is a rather old book that's worth a read.. "How to Stop and Influence Planning Permission" by Roy Speer. The basic ideas will still apply but some details like deadlines may have changed.

BCO may still want figures to prove it though.

Also double check the flow and return pipes from the buffer to the manifold aren't swapped over. On a shower mixer this can cause the cartridge to runaway to the end stop, eg full hot or full cold. Edit: Not sure this would cause the symptoms you have though.

Other thing to check would be the pump direction. Usually an arrow on it somewhere.

Check that. The picture here says "6. Manual Return Valves" https://www.wundagroup.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/M07-generic-Wunda-premium-Manifold-25-4-2018.pdf

Appears metal open web rafters are similar to solid wood.. http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16357

I'm pretty sure open web joists would have better thermal properties than solid (eg less thermal bridging). I'm sure the makers would answer that question asked on its own. Might even be on their Web site somewhere. So perhaps see if the calculation for solid timber rafters is OK and add a comment that open web will be better.

Do you know what U-Value was specified for the roof? What U-Value would be needed to meet the Building Regulations? I assume the insulation between the rafters behind plasterboard rather than on the floor of the loft, so not easy to top up.

If you plan to plant any trees put those on a landscape plan and you can reclaim the VAT. Can't reclaim VAT on a shed or greenhouse. Can for a garage if built same time as house. Not sure about a garden office or similar outbuilding, probably. Aside: Since you are at this stage.. After getting PP, If the CIL is a thing in your area make sure you claim the exemption and get confirmation using the right forms before you do any work on site. You must do this even if the planners send you a letter or email telling you it will be exempt. They mean it will be exempt if you claim the exemption on the right forms. Mistakes can be expensive.

I think we used CW1326 cable with at least 2 pairs (eg 4 wires). We ran ours direct in the ground but I probably should have used a duct. We left a coil at the bottom of the pole long enough to reach the top with 5m spare for luck. My electricity meter box is on the outside wall of my office with the CU in a walk in cupboard in the office. So we ran the BT cable into my meter cabinet then into the office following much the same route as the meter tails. Not sure if its a good idea but works for us. The office cupboard has our BT master socket, modem, 16 port hub, DECT phone base station, burglar alarm, TV distribution amp and more in it. I think there is an (optional?) Building Regs Approved Document showing how its meant to go into the house via a duct.

I don't know about using Routers as WiFi Access Points. I guess they would work. Perhaps need to turn off DHCP so devices get an IP from your main router managing the guest network? You can get WiFi access points for £20 - £40 on Amazon but I've not used them. Perhaps others here have. Example: TP-Link TL-WA901N 450 Mbps Wireless N Access Point, Passive PoE Power Injector, 10/100M Ethernet Port.. £20.49. https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-WA901N-Wireless-Injector-Ethernet/dp/B087MSF7BR/ref=sr_1_1?adgrpid=53310796295&gclid=CjwKCAjw4c-ZBhAEEiwAZ105RSuejHOnZC2FA83urbj3nXcfmYXfnfcfR19_iwfBGee8GOj2YL9PxxoCn9oQAvD_BwE&hvadid=259016914938&hvdev=t&hvlocphy=1006818&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10865873223415071343&hvtargid=kwd-361530570237&hydadcr=5058_1827822&keywords=wifi+access+point&qid=1664402731&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljk3IiwicXNhIjoiNC40MCIsInFzcCI6IjQuMTMifQ%3D%3D&refinements=p_36%3A-3000&rnid=428432031&sr=8-1

HMRC see it like this... Fitting is labor which must be zero rated to you. If you purchase worktop from B&Q it would be standard rated to you but you can reclaim it after completion. Mixed labor and materials (eg supply and fit) should all be charged to you at the same lowest rate. In this case that woukd be the zero rate for labour. So in short, it should all be zero rated to you. If you are given a quote for £xyz plus or Inc VAT its best to get it amended before you accept it.

Oh yes, I didn't notice that.

Is the amenity block just a loo or do you want WiFi in or near there as well? If just a loo I would buy a cheap hub to put in there. Approx £10. If you want WiFI in the amenity block then many WiFi access points have a few wired connections as well. So you can use a WiFi AP as a hub. Having the same kit everywhere means you can set up one, save the configuration file and upload it into the others. All the menus are the same etc. Create the guest network at the house/static van end so you avoid having to go to the amenity block to reset it?