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Actually here it says the drape can be 10-15mm so 19mm counter battens would also be OK.. https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/help-and-advice/project-guides/pitched-roofing/how-to-install-breathable-roof-membrane/

The counter batten is normally to raise the membrane off the insulation/osb. Not all membrane is approved for use in contact. The membrane should also drape between the rafters and not be pressed against the underside of the tile batten. This is to allow water blown under tiles to run down and not pool above a tile batten as this can cause batten rot. I thought the normal drape recommended was about 25mm so I'd go for 25mm thick counter battens. Edit: Counter battens can also be installed above the membrane to raise the tile battens off the membrane for same reason.

If you get the system drained and flushed out remember to put corrosion inhibitor back in afterwards. Some of these "Heating system plans" don't include that which is why I never sign up to them.

Just for info.. I heard an advert on the radio yesterday for Quickbooks. They were saying that very soon even small businesses will have to do their VAT return electronically/digitally. Paper VAT receipts won't be acceptable soon. Doesn't affect self build yet as far as I can tell.

Sometimes it's worth the drive to collect fragile items. Pain I know.

I think that Declaration is only to avoid them processing an application only to find the owner doesnt know about it and objects. There is a rather old book that's worth a read.. "How to Stop and Influence Planning Permission" by Roy Speer. The basic ideas will still apply but some details like deadlines may have changed.

BCO may still want figures to prove it though.

Also double check the flow and return pipes from the buffer to the manifold aren't swapped over. On a shower mixer this can cause the cartridge to runaway to the end stop, eg full hot or full cold. Edit: Not sure this would cause the symptoms you have though.

Other thing to check would be the pump direction. Usually an arrow on it somewhere.

Check that. The picture here says "6. Manual Return Valves" https://www.wundagroup.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/M07-generic-Wunda-premium-Manifold-25-4-2018.pdf

Appears metal open web rafters are similar to solid wood.. http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16357

I'm pretty sure open web joists would have better thermal properties than solid (eg less thermal bridging). I'm sure the makers would answer that question asked on its own. Might even be on their Web site somewhere. So perhaps see if the calculation for solid timber rafters is OK and add a comment that open web will be better.

Do you know what U-Value was specified for the roof? What U-Value would be needed to meet the Building Regulations? I assume the insulation between the rafters behind plasterboard rather than on the floor of the loft, so not easy to top up.

If you plan to plant any trees put those on a landscape plan and you can reclaim the VAT. Can't reclaim VAT on a shed or greenhouse. Can for a garage if built same time as house. Not sure about a garden office or similar outbuilding, probably. Aside: Since you are at this stage.. After getting PP, If the CIL is a thing in your area make sure you claim the exemption and get confirmation using the right forms before you do any work on site. You must do this even if the planners send you a letter or email telling you it will be exempt. They mean it will be exempt if you claim the exemption on the right forms. Mistakes can be expensive.

I think we used CW1326 cable with at least 2 pairs (eg 4 wires). We ran ours direct in the ground but I probably should have used a duct. We left a coil at the bottom of the pole long enough to reach the top with 5m spare for luck. My electricity meter box is on the outside wall of my office with the CU in a walk in cupboard in the office. So we ran the BT cable into my meter cabinet then into the office following much the same route as the meter tails. Not sure if its a good idea but works for us. The office cupboard has our BT master socket, modem, 16 port hub, DECT phone base station, burglar alarm, TV distribution amp and more in it. I think there is an (optional?) Building Regs Approved Document showing how its meant to go into the house via a duct.

I don't know about using Routers as WiFi Access Points. I guess they would work. Perhaps need to turn off DHCP so devices get an IP from your main router managing the guest network? You can get WiFi access points for £20 - £40 on Amazon but I've not used them. Perhaps others here have. Example: TP-Link TL-WA901N 450 Mbps Wireless N Access Point, Passive PoE Power Injector, 10/100M Ethernet Port.. £20.49. https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-WA901N-Wireless-Injector-Ethernet/dp/B087MSF7BR/ref=sr_1_1?adgrpid=53310796295&gclid=CjwKCAjw4c-ZBhAEEiwAZ105RSuejHOnZC2FA83urbj3nXcfmYXfnfcfR19_iwfBGee8GOj2YL9PxxoCn9oQAvD_BwE&hvadid=259016914938&hvdev=t&hvlocphy=1006818&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10865873223415071343&hvtargid=kwd-361530570237&hydadcr=5058_1827822&keywords=wifi+access+point&qid=1664402731&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljk3IiwicXNhIjoiNC40MCIsInFzcCI6IjQuMTMifQ%3D%3D&refinements=p_36%3A-3000&rnid=428432031&sr=8-1

HMRC see it like this... Fitting is labor which must be zero rated to you. If you purchase worktop from B&Q it would be standard rated to you but you can reclaim it after completion. Mixed labor and materials (eg supply and fit) should all be charged to you at the same lowest rate. In this case that woukd be the zero rate for labour. So in short, it should all be zero rated to you. If you are given a quote for £xyz plus or Inc VAT its best to get it amended before you accept it.

Oh yes, I didn't notice that.

Is the amenity block just a loo or do you want WiFi in or near there as well? If just a loo I would buy a cheap hub to put in there. Approx £10. If you want WiFI in the amenity block then many WiFi access points have a few wired connections as well. So you can use a WiFi AP as a hub. Having the same kit everywhere means you can set up one, save the configuration file and upload it into the others. All the menus are the same etc. Create the guest network at the house/static van end so you avoid having to go to the amenity block to reset it?

If I was building it myself I'd go for solid blocks so I can use a jig like this then fit internal wall insulation. https://youtu.be/-mciVlgZz5g

Think you install the liner and register plate at the bottom then fill the space around it with Vermiculite... https://youtu.be/Kk6Et89GOCg Are you saying the chimney has been removed in the loft so the bare liner would be exposed?

If you fancy a weekend away I suggest the Batibouw Trade show in Brussels 14-19 March 23. We went in 2005 and there were 13 halls in different categories. The Belgians take house plans so they can get quotes or place orders. Caution: Some days are normally trade only so check the website. Take comfortable shoes because if you want to see the whole show its quite a bit of walking.

Many councils have an SPD with a wide variety of names like "Seperation of Dwellings SPD" or "Separation Distances and Amenity SPD". Find out if your council has one and check if you comply.

RCD work by comparing the Live and Neutral currents. If there is a difference they trip because that implies a "leak" somewhere. Eg Where did the electricity go if it didn't return via the neutral? You could use a similar idea to detect central heating leaks. If the boiler flow and return aren't the same there must be a leak. A common problem occurs when two circuits have their neutrals connected together so the current from the live of one RCD can return to the neutral of another. Sometimes the problem only shows up when a high current load is switched on or off.

I should add that although we found our builder by driving around he still had to out bid the others that quoted. When you get quotes don't rush to accept the cheapest. Its important to check they have all quoted for the same thing. One may have allowed less for the kitchen or nothing for your driveway and fencing. It took quite a while and many questions to make the quotes we had comparable. If you plan to provide a lot of second fix items make sure they include for fitting if you expect them to do that. Some people prefer to hire their own trades for that. You could ask builders if they use a tame Quantity Surveyor to do detailed quotes or just the back of an envelope.