Temp

Compact everything well then mark the high areas with marker paint and compact them a bit more.

+1 If fitting UFH must insulate properly. We have 80mm PIR and would probably fit double if building again. You also want to think about what's going on top of the UFH... UFH also works best with tile or stone on top rather than underlay and carpet. If you want carpet it should have a low TOG value. Special underlay and carpet exist. Don't be miss-sold by reps that claim "all our carpet is suitable for UFH", they mean UFH won't damage the carpet, not the carpet will let the heat through well. Hessian backed carpet is better than foam backed but sometimes the T&C on the order form allows them to supply either version. Engineered Wood works but a suspended wood floor must normally be >18mm thick (think it's a building regs thing). With care you can use 21mm Engineered wood on joists. Some people buy 14mm Engineered wood and then discover they need to put 18mm chipboard under it, giving 18+14=32mm. The UFH might still work but that 50% more wood the heat has to get through.

So have I..

If the floor is tiled or vinyl you will probably want to mop it so water will probably get under the units. Paving slabs might be a good option. BnQ are 35mm thick. Wickes have 32,35, 38mm

Would any packing be visible or covered by a kick board?

Sorry I missed your post above. Makes sense.

Just been out to test it and I'm wrong. It appears to work by keeping the handbrake engaged for a few seconds. So the sequence is.. Put foot on foot brake. Engage gear Release hand brake. You then have several seconds to move your foot from the foot brake to the accelerator during which the car doesn't roll.

No it's just an anti roll back. If you are in forward gear it doesn't let you roll back. I think if you are in reverse it doesn't let you roll forward but I cant recall testing that. Basically you just put it in gear drop the hand brake and drive away.

Perhaps get her a newer one. Our 2018 manual has hill start assist and a manual handbrake so you can still do them yourself if you want to.

Have you found a supplier that make uPVC patio doors that are accessible?

I agree. Don't like the idea of having a coupling in the screed.

Might be worth investigating how he did that. Didn't he have to provide any evidence the neighbour agreed?

All I can think is asking them how much they would want to give up the ROW permanently? If they are willing then best do this formally so it gets removed from the deeds once and for all. A surveyor might be able to estimate what the right value is eg what it increases your house by and how much it reduces theirs by.

How big is the duct? If big enough could you push another duct through it for the water or electric just to give a bit more protection/separation.

What car is your wife driving? Even a three year old Fiesta has hill start assist these days. Is it turned off?

You may also be hit with a planning condition requiring an Archealogical survey. These can be rather open ended.

Just looked at Part M again. I think you need to get a copy of the planning grant for your house as many sections of Part M are now only mandatory if there is a planning condition requiring compliance. Depending on what the planning conditions say you might need "accessible thresholds" on "other external doors" in addition to the front door/principal entrance. See the intro to section 3 then section 3.23 which refers to back to parts of 3.22. But even if this must be a wheelchair accessible entrance it looks like the sill design wasn't intended for that. This looks like a normal upvc patio door that has been installed lower to try and make it comply with something it wasn't designed for. It looks like a bodge, perhaps because their door/window supplier doesn't make one with a sill that is intended to be wheelchair accessible? I suspect the strip of concrete/screed along by the door might even be a crude attempt to make a ramp, perhaps to make it comply with the 15mm high threshold rule)?

Our system is pipe in foiled insulation with spreader plates. We have 80mm of PIR insulation under the UFH system so I guess equivalent to 85mm? That's over a beam and block floor. Pipe spacing around 150mm. We turned the flow temperature up because the first winter was very cold and the heating couldn't quite keep those rooms to the set temperature. Not helped by no curtains in those rooms. Our engineered wood floor has coped with the highish temperatures ok.

OK the drawing from that link is similar to what we did for our front door. However it won't solve your other problem which is an inability to open the door if you fit carpet or wood flooring. To solve that the door and sill need to be raised, probably at least 20mm. But if you raise the sill you have I don't think it will meet wheel chair access regulations as it will probably be too tall. Its hard to tell from the photos but looks like wrong design. Regarding the water ingress... The weather seals on many doors will leak to some extent but they are normally designed so that any water that does get past the seals drains through passageways in the frame to the outside. This is sometimes called secret drainage. If they are installed too low or incorrectly this drainage route can be blocked and the only place for the water to go is inside the house. There is also the possibility of it collecting in the frame and freezing in winter. I would try and get information from the door manufacture. Check if it's intended for wheelchair use. Check their installation instructions have been or will be followed regarding drainage of the frame itself. This photo shows secret drainage holes on a window. Don't let the builder just drill holes, they will be designed in by the manufacturer.. And this shows the complicated path through the door and frame that water can take on some doors. Try and get the equivalent drawing for your doors from the manufacturer. Regarding the need to be wheelchair friendly.. I know the regulations have changed since we built our house so it is possible they have to be. Perhaps a planning condition was imposed requiring greater wheel chair access.

What solvents have you tried? I've got a growing collection that work on some things but not others. Acetone, IPA, Petrol, White Spirt, Methylated spirit, Cellulose thinners etc, Test on somewhere out of sight first.

PS: If this door does need to be wheelchair friendly for some reason.... I believe they have used the wrong type of door and sill. It looks like they have just fitted a standard non-wheelchair type too low in the hope that will do. A clue is the thin upstand nearest to you in this photo. I don't think its strong enough for a wheel chair to drive over regularly..

Total BS. 1) The Building Regulations (Part M) normally only require the front door to be "level access" and even then you are allowed a 12mm high step/weather bar above the finished floor level (eg above any wood flooring or carpet). 2) There is no excuse for a loose frame. 3) The water is coming in because its not fitted correctly. Worse they propose sealing it with tape on the inside ! Totally wrong. The water seal should be on the outside but that might mean taking the door out and fitting it correctly. As others have said the door needs to come out and be correctly fitted. The door might need to be remade.... It's quite possible they measured or built the opening incorrectly so when it came to fitting the door frame it was too tall. It's too difficult to raise the lintel above the door so they probably removed or cut bricks at the bottom and installed the door lower than it should be. The correct thing to do was get the door remade.

We have 21mm Engineered Oak fixed to battens with UFH and spreader plates, no chipboard. We have had to turn flow rates up to 50C. House built to the regs in 2007. If we had ASHP (eg lower flow temps) I wouldn't want 20+18 = 38mm of wood over the pipes.

Sorry I can't remember.